Hi, Steve, I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK & RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Starter Clutch---GRIND & WHIRR
28. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about ScootersTao Tao ATV wont start Fix it here http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf https://www.taotaopartsdirect.com/collections/lancer-150 TAOTAO QUANTUM 150 Owner Manual
Once you have disassembled the motor and pulled the armature from the field windings you will need to have an ohm meter. Set the meter to OHMS and then touch the red lead to the winding lead on one end and the black lead to the winding on the other end and if the windings are still good you should be a 0.00 reading or very close depending on the resistance. The reading should be close to the same as touching the red and black leads together. This means that there is a complete circuit end to end and the winding is not broken. IF the meter does not give you that reading you will have a broken winding.
Check all fuses and if good you will have to pull the covering from the rear hatch to get at the wires so you can check with a test light or volt meter to see that you are getting voltage when the wiper switch is activated. If there is no voltage try to see if the wire is damaged somewhere or if the switch itself has gone bad. If there is voltage them the motor may be burned out. You will have to have the things that you find replaced if bad.
The alarm you hear may be the overheating alarm... but, if it is, it won't run too long with it on before the engine locks up...Is there evidence of water coming from the witness hole in the back of the motor? Good.. otherwise,, you may be hearing the low oil alarm..or the oil pressure alarm...My bass boat oil system alarm goes off every time I crank the engine..but it uses oil and runs great...(been doing it for years - I am too lazy to clean the sensor in the oil tank)
The RPM and faster alarm is something that puzzles me?
Believe it or not, Home Depot, whom I despise. A low/bad chip should not cause slow engine crank, if that is what you meant. Show crank is low amperage. Weak starting battery or electrical connections at either the battery or the engine.
ARE YOU SURE IT IS A FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM? SPARK & FUEL ARE THE 2 THINGS THAT CAUSE A VEHICLE TO START AND RUN. IF IT USES "COILPACK(S) HAVE THEM /IT TESTED...LIKE AT AUTO ZONE...OTHER IGNITION SYSTEMS, MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING A FAT STRONG SPARK OUT OF COIL!....WHEN YOU TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO RUN POSITION (DON'T CRANK IT OVER)....WITH THE DRIVERS DOOR OPEN..YOU SHOULD HEAR A WHIRRING SOUND MOMENTARILY FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS THE FUEL PUMP RUNNING. IF YOU DONT HEAR A FAINT HUMMING...THE FUEL PUMP
1. IS DEFECTIVE
2. IS NOT GETTING POWER
3. YOU HAVE A RELAY OR WIRING ISSUE (UNDER HOOD MAXI FUSE AS WELL). IF NOISE IS HEARD..GO TO SPARK DIAGNOSIS JEFF GEYER (517) 489-1566 OWNER AUTOWORX