Hi, Steve, I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Fuel pumps---WHIRR
12. Head Gasket---HISS
13. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
14. Instrument Clusters---BUZZING
15. Kick Starter---GRINDS
17. Power Valves---CLINK & RATTLE
19. Rear Chains---RATTLE
20. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
22. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
23. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
24. Solid Lifters---TICK
27. Starter Clutch---GRIND & WHIRR
28. Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Scooter Troubleshooting Scooter won start All about ScootersTao Tao ATV wont start Fix it here http://www.family-motorsports.net/GY6-50cc-150cc.pdf https://www.taotaopartsdirect.com/collections/lancer-150 TAOTAO QUANTUM 150 Owner Manual
The alarm you hear may be the overheating alarm... but, if it is, it won't run too long with it on before the engine locks up...Is there evidence of water coming from the witness hole in the back of the motor? Good.. otherwise,, you may be hearing the low oil alarm..or the oil pressure alarm...My bass boat oil system alarm goes off every time I crank the engine..but it uses oil and runs great...(been doing it for years - I am too lazy to clean the sensor in the oil tank)
The RPM and faster alarm is something that puzzles me?
Believe it or not, Home Depot, whom I despise. A low/bad chip should not cause slow engine crank, if that is what you meant. Show crank is low amperage. Weak starting battery or electrical connections at either the battery or the engine.
ARE YOU SURE IT IS A FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM? SPARK & FUEL ARE THE 2 THINGS THAT CAUSE A VEHICLE TO START AND RUN. IF IT USES "COILPACK(S) HAVE THEM /IT TESTED...LIKE AT AUTO ZONE...OTHER IGNITION SYSTEMS, MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING A FAT STRONG SPARK OUT OF COIL!....WHEN YOU TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH TO RUN POSITION (DON'T CRANK IT OVER)....WITH THE DRIVERS DOOR OPEN..YOU SHOULD HEAR A WHIRRING SOUND MOMENTARILY FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE. THIS IS THE FUEL PUMP RUNNING. IF YOU DONT HEAR A FAINT HUMMING...THE FUEL PUMP
1. IS DEFECTIVE
2. IS NOT GETTING POWER
3. YOU HAVE A RELAY OR WIRING ISSUE (UNDER HOOD MAXI FUSE AS WELL). IF NOISE IS HEARD..GO TO SPARK DIAGNOSIS JEFF GEYER (517) 489-1566 OWNER AUTOWORX
First of all let me tell you that it is a myth that you can not go back and forth between conventional oil and synthetic or in your case synthetic blend. They all mix very well together but why on earth would you not use a full synthetic in every thing? It will keep your motor so much cleaner, and last way longer, new or 150.000 miles used, does not matter. They refine the synthetic oils way way longer to get the impurities out. Other big thing [ OILTEMPERATURE AND WEAR COLD START UPS ] Exceeds and blows conventional out of the water. plus a real full synthetic you can run a lot longer just spin a new good grade filter on or change it. Me my self Ill run Walmart full synthetic in my grand prix and ROYAL PURPLE in my 2013 mustang. I think there all full synthetics are good compared to the old dirty sludge and if all the new manufactures are recommending it now its good. Do you have any motor rebuilders or trucking builders close to you? Just go look at the oil pans to compare the too . I guarantee you will be sold that day and never run conventional again.... PERIOD.