A) Remove the LCD Assembly (Display Assembly)
B) Remove the LCD Panel Bezel. (Display Bezel)
C) Remove the LCD Panel. (LCD screen)
D) Remove and replace the Power Button Board.
(And Power Button Spring, if needed)
The Gateway NV53 series of Notebook PC, is close to the NV52 series of Notebook PC.
(Along with the NV54, NV56, NV58, and NV59 series)http://www.tim.id.au/blog/tims-laptop-service-manuals/#toc-gateway
On this page go down to Gateway 400. (400 in Blue)
Drop down to the second line, go across, and click on the blue -
Ignore if you are aware;
This is a PDF file. The computer you are using now has Adobe Reader on it, which uses PDF files.
After you click on the file name (NV53) it may take up to 30 seconds, before the first page comes up.
(The file is downloading in the background, and will not show until fully downloaded)
The page number box located at the Top, and the actual manual page are Not the same.
(Page number box is located to the Right of the Down Arrow)
When I refer to a page it is for the Adobe Reader page number box, at the Top.
There are three ways to get to a page.
One is to use the Down Arrow, and go page by page to the one you want.
Two is to go to the Bookmarks menu to the left, sort through the main headings, until you get the subheading you want. Then click right on the heading name.
If you know the page number you want simply do this;
1) Put your mouse cursor in the Adobe Reader page number box.
2) Type the page number you want.
3) Press the Enter key.
Go to Page 111 - Replacing the power button board
Underneath the subheading, -> To replace the power button board:
.you will see the assemblies you need to remove, and in Blue.
Using number 2 - "Replacing the LCD panel assembly", for an example, just click RIGHT on it.
This will take you to this step of the procedure.
Then put 111 in the page number box at the Top, and press the Enter key; to go back to the main page - Removing the power button board.
Next step in procedure? Click on it. When finished go back to Page 111.
Preparing the Notebook: Goes from Page 53 to 54.
(Removing the Battery is really part of it. AC adapter [ Charger ] too.
Also Anti-Static Precaution information)
Replacing the LCD panel assembly; steps 2 through 15:
Goes from Page 70 to 73.
Replacing the LCD: Goes from Page 106 to 108.
Use a multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove. Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.
SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws.
Advise DO NOT mix them up.
The areas you're going into are not that Static shock sensitive.
If you remove the Palm Rest Cover, or Bay Cover on bottom; then you would be. (In a Static sensitive area)
For this reason you do not need to wear an ESD wrist strap, and have it's alligator clip attached to a good ground source.
HOWEVER, be aware that your body carries Static electricity, and Static will fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside your computer.
Wearing an ESD wrist strap, connected to a good ground source; would alleviate any worries about possibly Static shocking your laptop.
Cost averages around $3 to $6, and the peace of mind is priceless.
Going back through the sections you will be in, and adding tips;
Replacing the LCD Panel Assembly:
1) IF you have a Wireless Card (Wireless Module) you WILL be removing the Bay Cover on the bottom. You have to remove the Wireless Antenna wires from the Wireless Module (Wireless Card)
I <- would be wearing an ESD wrist strap.
If you are not, be sure you are working on a table; and not a bed, couch, or directly on a carpet floor. (High areas of Static)
If a carpet floor do not swing your feet across the carpet.
Handle the Wireless Card by the body, and refrain from touching the gold plated contact pins; when removing.
Note the color of the wires, and what terminals they connect to; on the Wireless Card. May be a two terminal/two wire, or
three terminal/three wire Wireless Card.
(802.11n wireless card has three terminals/three wires)
Make a note, and if needed a small drawing. Those wires MUST go back to the original terminals they were installed on.
Also note the Channels and Latches they go through.
The Wireless Antenna wires MUST go back through the same original route of Channels, and Latches; or the laptop will NOT go back together correctly, and there is chance of pinching a wire, and damaging it.
The Wireless Antenna wires are fed up through the bottom of the laptop, through a cavity. Out of their Channels, and Latches, then they lay on top until you remove the LCD Panel Assembly.
->To replace the LCD panel assembly, number 2;
and the separate sentence underneath;
"If there's no wireless card installed, proceed to Step 5"
Either they are on Crack, or I am.
You HAVE to remove the Keyboard to access the Webcam, and Microphone Cable's motherboard connections!
Look at Page 71.
The Microphone and Webcam cables, also go up into the LCD Panel Assembly you are going to remove!
They go WITH the LCD Panel Assembly when it is removed.
Go to Page 64 - Replacing the Keyboard Cover. Must be removed before Keyboard can be removed.
Battery removed, you can see the 3 Philips head screws you need to remove; in order to remove the Keyboard Cover.
DO NOT use a butter knife, flat tipped Jeweler's screwdriver, or other metal tool to remove the Keyboard Cover!
A) One slip, and you'll cause more damage than you can believe.
Kiss the speaker goodbye, and the tiny wires underneath that cover.
B) You'll deface the plastic of the laptop, and it will look like this was done by a noob, instead of a professional.
(Yes. I can find the marks done by 'Pros', if they use a metal instrument. Hence why the marks on Pros above. They AIN'T)
Use a thick guitar pick to ease in-between the parting line of the Keyboard Cover, and Base Enclosure. (Bottom Cover)
Then use your fingertips to ease that cover up, and off.
I suggest starting on the Right side. Get the right side popped up a little, then use your fingertips of both hands on the top, and bottom edge of the Keyboard Cover.
Keep popping loose, and move towards the Left side.
BE aware that there are tiny wires going to that cover!
Do NOT lift too far up, or get aggressive with the cover; when removing.
Disconnect the wires, lay the cover aside.
The Keyboard doesn't actually have to be removed all the way.
After removing it from the Palm Rest Cover, and Keyboard Cable STILL attached to the motherboard connector; the Keyboard is rolled over, and laid with the bottom -> Up.
Top edge of Keyboard (LCD screen side), is rolled towards you, and the top of the Keyboard is laid on the Palm Rest Cover.
The LCD screen side is lifted up at a slight ANGLE, then the Keyboard is slid a little towards the LCD screen.
There are Tabs on the side of the Keyboard facing you, and they go into the Palm Rest Cover.
Lifting the Keyboard straight up at a 90 degree angle, when first removing; will break the tabs off, and/or damage the Palm Rest Cover.
If you would rather just remove the Keyboard and get it out of your way:
Be aware of the following;
The Keyboard Cable STAYS attached to the Keyboard. It removes from the motherboard connector.
The Keyboard Cable is a FFC. Flat Flex Cable,http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Flat-Flex-Cable.jpg
As you can see it has flat terminal contact pins, and NO plug connector.
Twisted, flopped over, or going to Hawaii for vacation, (What?); the cable MUST be reinstalled in the ORIGINAL position it was in.
For this reason, you may wish to make a mark on one side of the cable, and a matching mark on the same side of the motherboard connector. (Sharpee?)
The motherboard connector is a type of ZIF connector.
Zero Insertion Force.
It is rectangular in shape, and composed of two pieces.
A smaller top part, and a larger bottom part.
HOWEVER it DOES NOT come completely apart, when unlocking.
The bottom larger rectangular part is the BODY. It is stationary to the motherboard.
The top smaller rectangular part is the Locking Bar. It is movable.
(The Locking Bar wedges the cable into the Body, when locked)
IF, the Locking Bar is broken, or the Body; you are looking at MOTHERBOARD REPLACEMENT, and why I have been so detailed.
Service Manual photos are not clear enough for me to determine, what style of Locking Bar is used.
There are two types of motherboard ZIF connector, this could be;
Sliding Locking Bar, or Flip Up locking bar.
So I will detail info for both.
(Also can apply to other ZIF connectors on motherboard )
Open, or Unlocked,http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/Toshiba-Satellite-L675D-L670D/big-body/dismantle-laptop-11.jpg
Use your thumbnails to EASE those tabs, of the Locking Bar.
Ease up on one side a little, then the other side. Then all the way up with both tabs/sides.
How far is the limit? Usually 2mm. That is a little larger than 1/16th of an Inch.
Use a metal tool? NO. One slip.............remember?
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