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It fills with water but
Check your lid switch. A bad lid switch will kill the spin and some models other things check this first. Can you see or hear if the motor is running? If the motor is running check the coupler from the motor to the transmisson. If the motor is not running the motor may be bad or not getting power. Hope this helps.
on May 16, 2011
The tub fills with water
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.
Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.
Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.
This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.
It also has a troubleshooting guide.
To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.
Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.
With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.
If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.
on Jan 27, 2011
After an unbakanced load, washer
Hi, first thing to check if your washer is not pumping or spinning is to see if the motor is running. If the motor is not running then check the pesky lid switch. When the lid gets slammed it hammers that switch and eventually will bend it or break it completely. Some washers will wash but not spin or pump,
others will do nothing. This switch is located under the lid on the
edge of the frame around the lid. Often there is a hole that a pin from
the lid will go through and push on a lever that is the switch. Check
that it is not simply bent, so that it does not trip the switch inside
anymore. To change or check the switch the top will need to be raised
or the front removed. Getting to it, is often harder then the
If the motor is running then you may have a broken pump belt or a broken or frozen pulley.
If the belt is broken replace it. To check the pulley, remove the belt
and then check to see if the pulley turns freely. If it does not,
If you are pumping, but not spinning, then you will need to again check the lid switch. Next on the list is the motor coupling. Many washers made are actually Whirlpool. These washers all use a coupler that is made of plastic and rubber and they will wear out after some time. This couples the motor to the transmission. If it breaks it will need to be replaced.
machines use belts. These belts can become stretched and then will not
grip the pulleys to spin them at the proper speed. This also will often
give that burning rubber smell. Be sure to replace these belts with washing machine belts as they are specially made for this purpose and are often not the same as regular automotive belts.
Drive motors are often a source of trouble. These motors often run in forward and reverse.
They spin one way to agitate and the other to spin. Just because it
works in one direction, does not mean that the other direction cannot
be burnt out. This often happens and just because “it works” people
think the motor is okay. The motor still needs to be replaced if either
direction goes bad.
GE manufactured washers use a clutch system.
This slowly bring the spin cycle up to speed as the water goes out of
the washer. When this becomes worn the spin will not be as fast or may
not spin at all. If your clutch needs to be replaced, you may want to
hire that out as it is quite a project for most DIY’ers.
The final problem would be the bearing or basket drive. This gets worn or even will get tight so that the basket will not spin freely. If this goes bad you will usually have excessive noise when the washer spins. This too is a project that you may want help with.
As you can see there are many things that can go wrong to make problems with the spin cycle of a washer. You will have to do some detective work to figure out exactly what the problem is with your washing machine.
on Jul 07, 2010
When I drop the lid, the motor starts to make
If the washer does not agitate or spin, but will still drain, a likely cause is a broken motor coupling. Another common symptom is being able to hear the motor running, or a loud rattling sound, as the drive motor engages, but the tub no longer spins.
Whirlpool uses a motor coupling in the place of a drive belt. It is located between the drive motor and and gearcase (transmission). This configuration is known as a "direct-drive" system. It is common for the coupler to wear out with age and break. Newer versions of this coupler are more resilient and resist breakage. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574231-replacing_a_motor_coupling
The part number for the improved motor coupling is included in the link I provided. The average cost is about $10-$15. you can purchase a replacement at any of the following websites:
All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop and compare. If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
on Jan 14, 2010
Machine wont agitate
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cuase this dissruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))
on Sep 09, 2009
Washing Machine wont spin/agitate
The most common problem is the lid switch. with a screw driver in hand open the lid and press down on the lid switch. sometimes the mounting screws will crack the switch housing and the striker can't move the actuator far enough. I am interested in the clicking noise, as this could indicate a pump issue or a sock seizing up the tub.
on Jun 14, 2009
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