20 Most Recent Kenmore 62722 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers


Check connection some have different slots . It may have same knots but in different spot, you may be able to rotate to line up for install.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Oct 12, 2017


That leaves the door switch, the timer, and the motor. If the motor runs, check the switch on the motor, it energizes the heater relay.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Sep 25, 2011


The motors centrifugal switch may be stuck. Try having someone start it while pressing in the door switch while you rotate the drum with your hand by grabbing one of the drum vanes. I don't know which direction your drum rotates. Try both. This may start the drum turning on its own and resetting the switch.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Sep 21, 2011



The white wire goes to the center screw in the terminal strip each side of that are the hot wires red & Black.
The green wire connects to a chassis ground screw. If there are none then drill a hole in a good metal spot near as possible to the terminal strip and screw it there tightly.



this is free help...please find time to rate me....good luck

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Jul 25, 2011


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Jun 02, 2011



Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Mar 30, 2011


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101
.,,.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Mar 21, 2011


This does sound like the heating element. The heating element typically has two windings so that the dryer can be run using just one or both to give different heat settings. It sounds as if one of the elements has broken so you are just running on low heat all the time. If you look at the back of the dryer you will see a metal panel which protrudes by about 1 1/2 inches. This is were the elements are housed. When you remove it the elements should be visible. Inspect them and see if on of them has got a burnt break along its length. If you are a bit more technically minded, get an ohm meter an compare the resistance of the two windings; they should be the same. If one is showing open circuit or a very high resistance, that's your problem. Expect to pay about £20-£30 ponds for a new set of elements.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Jan 12, 2011


Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have a broken belt, if your unit is not blowing hot air, you then have a defective motor.

I tried to help you. Please help me and Rate/Vote on my response. We take the time to answer your question's. take the time to rate us.Thanks and good luck

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Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Jan 01, 2011


Good day,
If your talking about the idler wheel that tensions the belt, a picture is worth a thousand words. So look here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dd1Ac4_pXY&feature=PlayList&p=2489A2388180145E&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=14

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Nov 06, 2010


Hi.

Line voltage must be 110VAC or 220VAC, depending on your network voltage.

It is not clear if you have checked already the thermal fuse (if present) and the thermostat and high limit. All the thermostats can be tested by reading Ohms at room on their terminals. If the part is good it will have continuty, reading zero Ohms or low impedance.

Heating element is tested in similar way. If the element read open (infinity of Ohms), then the element is bad.

Remove all lint from inside the appliance and check the air ducts.

If there is voltage at the motor, and voltage is OK, then the motor or may be shot, and the incorrect power draw from motor is causing the error.

The motor relay must also be tested to ensure that this is not the problem, even if the relay does not cause incorrect power draw.

After pressing start button, check voltage at relay. Both sides must have volts or the relay is gone.

Press and hold the Start button for about 15 seconds. If motor does not start, then replace the motor.

If the motor starts when energized, but then shuts down when releasing the button, ensure that the model does not have what is called Even Heath Control. This is a device that is used in Whirlpool/Kenmore recent models. I need the full model number to check parts, just check if there is a part called even heath control in part list. In case, follow troubleshooting here.

To get part list and diagram enter model number here.

Regards.

Ginko.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Nov 02, 2010


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There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor going bad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why your dryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Sep 12, 2010


Check your breakers, wall recepticle, and cord for 220 Voltage

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Sep 09, 2010


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and brittle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Sep 08, 2010


Well I know that older dryers came with a wiring schematic for where all the wires go, but yours may not. There is a lot of experimenting with dryers when it comes to diagnosing. I would say that it is very possible a door switch could cause that depending the position its stuck in. If no power is going through that switch then the heating elements may work off of whether that switch switch is operating or not. If your heating elements worked before this then I would have no doubt that they are working now. If the switch being replaced doesn't work I would then go and check for full voltage at your main terminals (120V per power wire and 240V across both of the wires)

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on May 12, 2010


If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, you have a problem in the heating circuits. Any one of the following could be causing your problem:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO)
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Improper input line voltage
5. Defective power cord.

The following link gives some advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits are located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand. Just remove the back panel of the dryer for access.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

NOTE: The door switch is a separate issue. You are right in your assumption that the switch is bad and needs to be replaced. However, a switch that stays on would normally cause the dryer to, not only run, but continue to heat.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Mar 18, 2010


check your door switch,if it does not work nothing wiil-mike

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Jan 22, 2010


it sounds like thr rollers are shot that hold up the tube and mkes it role around,they need to be replaced, if more imfo. neede cotact elffender@ yahoo.com, hope i can help, thank you.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Dec 30, 2009


Hi,
Yes, there is a tension pulley but I"m at a loss as to how you're burning the belt, if not routed around the tensioner... seems to me you'd have a world of belt slack.
You might check and see if you can freely spin the drum, or if it seems to be locked-up. There may be an obstruction, keeping it from rotating... it shouldn't require so much effort.
Just a suggestion... Good luck.

Kenmore 62722... | Answered on Sep 01, 2009

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