20 Most Recent Kenmore 82822 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers


I have an he2 Kenmore gas dryer and it cost me $109 to replace my electric/main control board. My part was refurbished, but you wouldn't know it. It looked brand new when I got it and it's been working great. I've seen them for $250 brand new. They are easy to replace (just make sure you constantly touch the metal around your dryer to disburse any static electricity your body may have built up. You can fry your electric board with one shock of static electricity). My board had was held on by one screw and some tabbed slots. Very easy to DIY. I bought my part from a place called partsimple.com, here's the link:
TV parts Water Filter Washer parts Laptop Parts Replacement Parts...

They have overnight shipping if you need your part right away. I found them to be awesome. It's great to have my dryer back and working.

A repair man quoted me $450 to repair my dryer. I did it myself for $144 (the part and the overnight shipping).

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Apr 17, 2015


maybe a worn belt, bad felt, glides etc

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Mar 31, 2015


always unplug for 10 minutes and retry first.

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on May 04, 2014


Sounds like your dryer tub got bent

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Oct 17, 2013


F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.

Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:

* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.

The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgfrwxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/ksrttqdqrxkssrqtgsd/1/1303472/5961857/image12917img-or.jpg

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.

The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.

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Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Apr 08, 2012


Hi tclem66251

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Sep 19, 2011


You should check for continuity on the heating element. If you have continuity there, be sure you have voltage to the element. You have 2 (I beleive) temp sensors in line also. Check them, one may have a reset button (not sure). Make sure your exaust duct is clear to prevent thermo sensor burn out in the future.

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on May 16, 2011


Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.



if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....



If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.



check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101
';';';';';';';';';';';';';';';';';

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Jan 15, 2011


Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.



if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....



If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.



check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101
/[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[[

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Jan 15, 2011


Check the vent tube behind the dryer it could be crushed, you can confirm this also if you have long dry times.

Kenmore 82822... | Answered on Dec 24, 2010

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