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GE WVSR1060A Top Load Washer Questions & Answers
Wont spin or agitate
it could be your timer on the machine has gone out. If you have moved the washer and now you are experencing the problem there could be a reset switch that needs to be checked. On my top loader mine was doing the same thing after moving it, tipping it over to carry can get it off level, check your owners manuel . If the timer is out that can cause it to not cycle and not agitate or spin. Check the leveling issue before ordering a timer. Good luck
Leaking
hello there
Although there are a few leaks
common to all brands, most brands have leaks that are peculiar to their
design. GE, Whirlpool, Maytag, and others all have common and well-known leak
areas. After reading this section, see the chapter about specific brands for
details.
A common "leak" zone
is not a leak at all; the wall drain backs up and overflows onto the floor.
This is commonly misdiagnosed as a leak. It can be difficult to diagnose; the
problem may be intermittent. Depending on how badly the drain is clogged,
there may be a little water or a lot, or it may only overflow every second or
third load. While diagnosing a leak, do not be too quick to write this
diagnosis off.
If you suspect that your drain
is backing up, but you can't quite ever be there at the right time to observe
the overflow, try this: wrap some toilet paper around the drain hose just
above the wall drain pipe. If it backs up, the paper will get wet. Even if
you're not there when it happens and the paper dries out, it will have
crinkled up, and you'll know your drain's backing up.
If it isn't the drain, run the
machine with a full load. Without moving the machine, get right down on the
floor and look under the machine with a flashlight. Try to find the general
area where water is dripping to the floor; front or back of the machine, left
or right side.
Open the cabinet and look for
mineral or soap deposits where there shouldn't be any.
Trace the deposits in the
natural direction of waterflow (against gravity or centrifugal force) back to
the source of the leak. Fill the machine again and run it through a cycle or
two. Be patient; use your eyes and your brains. There is no magic, easy way
to detect a leak.
The usual places are:
WATER VALVE: The guts of the fill solenoid valve
sometimes will corrode. You may see water leaking from, or rust on the top of
the solenoid. (See figure G-7A) Since the valves only open during a fill
cycle, this may appear as an intermittent leak. The solution is to replace
the valve.
PUMP: Usually from around the pulley seal.
Some washer pumps have a hole that allows water to weep out when the seal
starts to go bad. The solution is to replace or rebuild the pump.
BLEACH DISPENSERS: Bleach is VERY hard on plastic
parts. If the bleach dispenser gets old and brittle, it can crack or break
off, and the flush water can leak out.
Figure G-7A: Leaky Water Solenoid Valve
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