20 Most Recent GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

The brakes are not holding. The only fix to this is to replace the transmission. This page will help http://appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer-disassembly.html

Hi- Sounds like your drain pump is bad, or clogged. Not easy to get to. It could also be a timer issue or an issue with your pressure switch which tells the washer when the water is out and it can go into spin mode. Sounds like you need to have someone out to take a look.

Yank the agitator off and replace the drive bell If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The problem is the brakes are not holding. To repair this problem yoiu will have to replace the transmission. This page has a video and step-by-step instructions on how to replace the transmission.

http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer-disassembly.html

This is typically caused by a clogged water pump but the water pump may be bad. Get the water out of the washer before takeing the hoses off the pump. This page can help http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer2.html

possible bad transmision

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}
Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote that will help you with your dishwasher not draining problem...

Dishwasher Problems - Water will not drain out

heatman101

The tub seal is leaking, often this damages the transmission. A new tub seal comes with the transmission this page should help http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer-disassembly.html

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

If you can hear the motor running with no agitation then it is either the Coupler (connector between the motor and transmission) or the transmission it's self... If the motor doesn't run then it could be the lid switch..

The timer knob and or the timer may need replacing here is a link for checking and replacing http://appliancehelponline.com/topwashertimervideo.html
The inner knob teeth tend to wear off on the ge top loaders, so check that first. You might have also broke the screw tabs that hold the timer in place from having to push it hard.

Potential problems:
1. Your vacuum tube has simply come off. 2. There is a hole in your vacuum tube, 3. Or you have a bad pressure switch.
To check,
1. Pop the top open on the unit and raise it up (for specifically how to do this, I'll need need the make and model number). You may need to disconnect wires from lid switch, noting where they go to put them back. 2. Locate a clear rubber-like tube come from under the control panel and going down the the bottom of the tub where it is connected to a small nipple. If it is not connected there, reconnect making sure it fits snug. You're problem is solved. 3. If it is connected, disconnect it and gently pull the end of the tube to you. Inspect if for holes or cracks or cuts. If it looks good, put the end of the tube (you may want to clean it if it's dirty) and blow air in it, keeping the pressure up and listen for a click under the console panel. Try again. If you hear the click, listen for air escaping from tube, maybe a pin hole or more. 4. If you do not hear the click when air pressure is applied, you have a bad pressure switch and it must be replaced, assuming the tube is actually connected to the pressure switch under the control panel. 5. Replace tube onto nipple near the bottom of the tub and replace the top. Reconnect lid switch. 6. Take control panel off and insure vacuum tube is connected to pressure switch. If it is, remove tube and blow pressure directly into pressure switch. If you hear no click, the pressure switch is bad.
To help you further or help you find the part, I will need the make and model number.
Good luck, this problem is more simple than it sounds.
G

either a bad timer or a lid safety switch is bad

On some models, the drive motor is universal meaning the drive turns clockwise in wash mode and turns counter clockwise in spin mode.
Possibly the motor windings is defective for the wash mode and thus the entire drive motor will require replacing.
Hope this helps..

im sorry to say your transmission and maybe even a section of the inner tub maybe broken it is not economical to fix i suggest you look for another considering that same unit might go for around 250.00 just in repairs alone your looking at a 350-400 dollar bill sorry for the bad news and at least 250-300 of that is just in parts

ok ge first get a putty knife and use along the front uper edge ull be able to pop the pin on each side pry forward with your fingers while using the putty knife on the front lid

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. The lid switch is defective and needs to be replaced. It is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The service tech certainly tipped the lid switch and it started immediately. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

I have been having the exact same problem in a top load Kenmore 80, starting about a year ago when I replaced the pump because the old one, (30 years old), finally seized it's bearings.

The new pump design has some rough edges near the water exit port and lint slowly collects there until it stops it from draining properly. Since the lint clumps do move around a bit, when the problem first starts occurring it is an intermittent problem, but as more lint accumulates it gets worse and worse.

The old pump couldn't be taken apart, (and never need to be taken apart), but the new one can be disassembled rather easily and when the lint clumps are removed everything works great for another month or two.

The pump is the so called direct replacement from Sears, for the washing machine that they sell, but obviously is not well suited for machines like mine that do not have lint filters.

I suspect they want to render my machine obsolete so that I buy a new one, after all they don't make much money selling 1 washer every 30+ years, especially if it rarely needs service. Why else would they sell pumps that don't work in place of pumps that worked well and lasted over 20 years.

[email protected]

check the bell under the adgitator if ok transmission