20 Most Recent GE Profile JGBP79 Gas Kitchen Range Questions & Answers


The igniter will not glow unless the gas valve is operational. The gas valve will not open unless there is power to supply the igniter. Igniters have a low resitance (20-100ohm). So, you can test it. Normally there is no power going to the ingniter.

You may have a defective gas valve (usually the safety circuit). The valves are not repairable (it would be dangerous to attempt it, and there are no parts available). So, you must replace the entire unit.

The thermostat may be shorted. If that's the case, the valve thinks the oven has reached temperature, so it doesn't need more heat, so the igniter won't glow, so the gas won't flow.

GE Profile... | Answered on Jan 21, 2014


Hi Carol.

First make sure that you are performing clean procedure correctly. If you press both bake and broil and then self clean, then instead of self clean the oven will go in child lock beeping twice. Two beeps may also be result of incorrect temp calibration. Perform calibration as suggested in the extract from service manual below:

10_11_2011_1_11_07_pm.gif



Before starting the self clean cycle the electronic control (ERC) performs checkout of door latch and temperature sensor, lock motor is activated and both relay for bake and broil start the cleaning cycle. If one of the conditions is not met the electronic control will beep and you may get an error code.

Make sure that both bake and broil are working. If one of the two functions is not working, then one of the relays in the power board is likely faulty: If the oven is not heating at all , then problem is usually the oven sensor.

If the rest is working the problem can be the door lock motor. The relay board and control module may also be causing the problem. The oven must be tested.

This GE range is mostly electronic. Testing is mostly done following the diagnostic procedures suggested in the technical repair manual.

The first procedure is error code reading (user level). This consists in reading the error codes stored in the oven electronic control (AKA ERC).

Here an extract from service manual showing the procedure:


10_11_2011_12_33_32_pm.gif

The procedure can be found in the Service Manual at the bottom of this document. Check page 19 of the service manual.at the bottom of this document. When performing the test look for error FF and F2, which respectively mean door latch and oven sensor problem. (codes at page 24 of service manual.

After the error code test, test individually door latch, sensor and lock motor. Perform the tests at page 22 of manual:


10_11_2011_12_48_53_pm.gif10_11_2011_12_51_11_pm.gif

10_11_2011_12_52_43_pm.gif

If the test does not return any error, then the door latch and motor must be tested manually as explained at page 21 of service manual.

HERE THE COMPLETE SERVICE MANUAL IN PDF FORMAT (click to open).

Regards.

Ginko

GE Profile... | Answered on Oct 11, 2011


Hi,
If the oven won't heat to the desired temperature or heats unevenly, the problem could be a defective door gasket. The best way to test for this is to pass your hand around the door, being careful not to touch it, while the oven is turned on. If you can feel heat escaping, the gasket needs replacement. Replace it with a new gasket made for the range.
On most ovens, the gasket is located on the frame of the oven, and the door closes against it. This gasket is generally friction-fit in a channel and can be replaced. In other units, the oven door has two sections, and the gasket is not mounted on the door frame, but is installed between the front and back sections of the door. Don't try to replace this type of gasket; call a professional service person. Here's how to replace a frame-mounted gasket:

Step 1: Pull the old gasket out of the channel. On some oven door frames the gasket is held in place with screws. To get at the screws, bend back the exposed edge of the gasket.
Step 2: Clean the channel and the door frame with a solution of mild household detergent and water.

Step 3: To install the new gasket, start the replacement at the top of the door frame and work down the sides, easing the gasket around corners. Finish the installation along the bottom, butting the ends of the gasket firmly together and that would be all.
I hope the above helps.
Regards.

GE Profile... | Answered on Jun 18, 2011


I am working with model JGBP26WEH1WW GE Gas range: You do not need to remove the back or even turn over, just remove the storage pan at the base of the unit and disconect the two plugs (unique plugs). You will need to splice your old conectors to your new igniter. Yes you have the correct igniter for that model.

GE Profile... | Answered on Feb 04, 2011


g.e doesn't want to admit ,but ive been a servicer for years... they have a issue with there self clean feature and it destroying the main control board... normally when you order the control board they will send you a new (modified) latch assembly... you have damaged your latch assembly on the unit and needs replaced... these units get entirely to hot in the self clean mode for all the plastic componets and relays they put inside the unit... order a new control board and make sure it comes with the latch assembly you will be good to go then..... sorry for the bad luck

GE Profile... | Answered on Jan 12, 2011


Find the bake ignitor (you may need to remove bottom drawer or oven cavity floor to get to the ignitor). Turn on the bake. If the bake ignitor comes on (starts glowing after a few seconds) - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. If the ignitor is a round style - amperage should be 2.5-3A, if the ignitor is rectangular - 3 - 3.6A. If less than 2.5A or 3A respectively - replace ignitor. If the ignitor does not come on - check the voltage on the ignitor, should be the line voltage 110-120v AC. If there is a line voltage on the ignitor and it's not coming on - replace.
Ignitor part numbers for round style ones: 4342528, WB2X9154, SGR403, 5304401265;
rectangular styles: 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
Ignitors of the same shape (i.e. rectangular) are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!

GE Profile... | Answered on Jul 15, 2010


Hi There
I have found the code for and hope this helps you.let me know how it goes.
F2 During Bake Control senses oven temp above 590 degrees F High resistance connection in oven temperature sensor circuit. Check Electronic Range Control (ERC) - Welded bake relay contactsThank you for writing to fix ya.
Best Regards Richard

GE Profile... | Answered on Mar 22, 2010


First take the door latch lever and push it to the left with moderate force. This may re-align the switches inside. If that does not correct the problem replace the door latch switch.

GE Profile... | Answered on Apr 02, 2009


when pressed does the oven make any noise, beeping or clicking of some kind? if not then you need to replace your touch pad

GE Profile... | Answered on Jul 25, 2008


It could be a faulty motor or a faulty motor start capacitor

GE Kitchen... | Answered on Jul 11, 2019

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