Top 20 GE GSH22SGRSS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Here is the service manual for the ice maker.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost TimerProblem

Water Runningin refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Open door let too much moisture into refrigerator. (The cooling coils, behind the back wall of the freezer compartment, are blocked with frost) If you unplug the refrig for a day or so it will work again, or you can take the back wall out from inside the freezer and melt the frost with a hair blower.

Extremly rare for a motherboard to cause a defrost problem ! Most of the time , it is only the a bad heater . However , to check the system ,
pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10055 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off .

Pull the Refrigerator out from the wall, pull off the main panel at the bottom and check to see if the tubing is still connected at the quick coupling. You have the main waterline coming in then it splits to the red and blue fittings. One goes to the water filter and dispenser and the other to the ice maker. I had the same issue which I found my tubing had dry rotted at the curved part and actually had several cracks in it. Fortunately there was enough extra tubing that I could just slide it back up into the coupling. Immediately you should hear the water run through it. I would suggest running a couple of gallons through when reconnected depending on how long it's been broke and maybe even replacing the filter.

Check that the pipe that fills the ice maker is not iced up. Also check that the solenoid on the back (where the waterline hooks up) is making a humming noise when the ice maker calls for water.

possible frozen fill tube.

Turn the freezer temp up a number for a few days , so the ice will melt in the door water line . A heater is available to keep this from happening again , pt # WR49X10173 , with installation instructions .

Try installing a hard start on the compressor.

Their is no way to test the dispenser board by using diagnostics. The buttons themselves are the only way to check. Before buying a board, I suggest you check the solenoid on the water valve. The largest water line on the water valve goes to the dispenser. Check the solenoid on that side for continuity. Most likely it is open. If it checks good it may still be bad mechanically due to hard water. You could get someone to press the button while you listen to the coil to confirm this. Just some ideas you might want to try. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

your RTX overload on the compressor body is going out and needs replacement

Do you mean it smells like propane? Or does it smell like propane exhaust (think taxi cab or fork lift)?

Either sounds pretty serious. I have heard of people using hydrocarbons to recharge refrigeration systems, though it is not the recommended method.

Do you own your residence or do you rent? Either way, call a repair man or the management of your rental right away and insist to have it inspected.

Fridges might smell like plastic or stale air if not used in awhile, but not propane/exhaust that I have ever heard of.

your defrost timer is bad. this device is dual purpose, it is a small heater/solenoid that calls for the compressor to turn off so the lines can defrost (usually does it once every 48 hours or so). it looks like a round button clipped to the coil lines in the freezer behind the plastic paneling where the cold air comes out. you need to replace that part, which is actually very inexpensive compared to a new fridge. it will unclip from the coil line and the two or three wires will either disconnect or you may have to cut them and splice on the new ones from the new defrost timer. either way it is a job that will take anyone with basic hand tools less than an hour to do.

PURCHASE troubleshooting refrigerators at https://www.applianceuniversity.com/store/products/Secrets-of-T%7B47%7DS-Refrigerators-%231009.html

You mean this?

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=a1b3c248i301130&PartID=301130

I would say your water valve in the freezer is locked in the open postion or has broken.

if you checked with a volt meter and there is no power then youhave a bad relay in the frirge

the problem you are having is in the main control board. ge has had a problem with this part causing the fan motor to go into high and low speed which causes the howling noise. unfortunately it is a costly fix, around $125 for the part. if you are savy to changing this part it is a matter of unplgging about 5 connections and replugging them. the new board has an extra set of pin that nothing connects to. READ the instuctions and it is a simple fix, saving about $50-60 in labor costs.