20 Most Recent
Questions & Answers
Is the light on?
Things that it could be.
Could be a door switch.
Or it could be a stuck fan relay
Or worst odf all it could be a bad Timmer Keypad board. Not worth fixing because they cost to much.
on Jan 14, 2009
is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch
mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a
problem on the control panel.Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.Door switch
or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the
door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.There are
plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and
onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.Sometimes it's
a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just
out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the
bottom edge of the switch.One test that sometimes helps is to
gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to
start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or
door alignment issue.If you or someone you know decide to look
into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door
switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.There
may also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control
panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type from us for $5 postpaid.If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
on Dec 02, 2008
The problem is damage to the control circuit board.
This damage is usually caused by removing or installing light bulbs without disconnecting the oven from the power line first.
We regularly repair these GE / Samsung smart boards for this problem for customers from across the country for $32.50.
We have an important file called "safety.txt" which you can find by doing a search for "microwave safety.txt" on Yahoo.com.
It's important information to consider before proceeding.
When the varistor fails, it will be shorted. That will cause the whole oven to be "dead". It's almost certainly fine.
on Oct 02, 2008
Not heating intermediately
If you have plug-in type watt meter, you can check the power draw of the oven when it is heating and it isn't. The magnetron is the primary power consumer of the unit, and by comparing the difference of power you can tell if it is the magnetron. Most likely your intuition is correct.
on Jun 09, 2008
Fan stopped working in JVM1533BD microwave
I assume you're talking about the hood fan which ventilates the cook top and blows air through the grille across the top.
If so, it's okay to use the microwave with that not working, but if you boil something on the stove, an external fan is definitely needed to keep mositure from going up into the microwave controls.
If the cooling fan INSIDE the microwave (behind the keypad) is not working, then you do NOT want to run it unit it is fixed.
If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
on Apr 10, 2007
FAN ON MICROHOOD CONTINUES TO RUN WHEN PLUGGED IN. HI IS LOW & LOW IS HI.
If you have Acrobat Reader you can see an exploded diagram of this model here:
Ref # 110 and 115 are thermostats and ref # 27 is the hood thermal cutout. One of these devices is likely bad.
You can order them via GE online at http://www.geappliances.com/shop/prts/ or via Sears online at http://www3.sears.com
You should also be able to find them at local appliance parts stores.
Here are the GE part numbers and prices:
TCO HOOD REF# 27 WB27X10789 $11.50
THERMOSTAT,BIMETAL REF# 115 WB27X10506 $21.75
THERMOSTAT- BIMETAL REF# 110 WB27X10788 $12.75
on Oct 30, 2006
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