20 Most Recent AO Smith Pool Pump Motor 1HP Square Flange Swimming Pool Pump Energy Efficient motor Questions & Answers

Your motor is shot. Do not risk a fire, replace the motor.

It sounds like the seal has a death grip on the motor shaft. Pick up the seal plate so the motor is hanging beneath it. (watch your toes) Holding it about waist high let it drop and then snatch it back up again. Kinda like getting a pillow in its case. The motor should drop out.

voltage set right? motors come set from factory 240 v .. or you might have moved the start switch, it's at 6 0clock on the motor make sure its centered (back of the motor) shaped like a v.. looks like this.click on thisalso might be a bad start or run capacitor..or a dud motor hope this helpsjay the pool pump motor repair guy in longwood Florida

There are no rebuilding kits per say. Rebuilding a motor entails stripping it down and replacing what's bad. whole inside should be cleaned of debris, dust, rust etc. Almost always bearing are replaced. Armature, rotor and stator are cleaned, motor windings tested, start/run caps tested and replaced as necessary. Thermal overload, contactor, relay, centrifugal switch, etc, tested and replaced if needed. You can order bearings and capacitors from several places online, other parts can be harder to find. I local pump repair shop may sell you parts as well.

Turn off the electric first. Now split the pump in two by removing the large clamp or 4-6 bolts holding the two halves together. (not the 4 bolts holding the motor to seal plate, but the the bolts holding the seal plate to the seal plate housing). Once you remove the clamp or bolts, the motor with seal plate and impeller and diffuser can all be pulled back away from the pump. You need to remove the diffuser (plastic housing that goes around the impeller) usually by a series of 3 to 6 small screws. Then disconnect the electrical from the motor and your can pull the motor with the seal plate, and impeller all the way out and work on it. To remove the impeller you need to lock the motor and unscrew impeller. Depending on the motor, you remove a cap in the middle of the tailpiece and hold with a wrench, or remove a cap that covers the whole end and grab the shaft with a wrench (usually 7/16") by sliding it under one of the components (not sure exact part off top of my head have to look at it) and then turning impeller. If the impeller has a bolt or screw in the middle remove that first. It should be reverse thread so make sure you don't turn the wrong way and break or strip. If there is no screw, or after you've removed it, just spin the impeller off (it should be counter clockwise standard thread). If you can't do it by hand and assuming you don't have an impeller wrench, be very careful and use a large pliers, pipe wrench, or strap wrench to loosen it. After that you unbolt the motor from the seal plate, pull the seal plate away from motor (this removes half the seal), and then pop the other half of the seal from the seal plate. Make sure to replace the shaft seal, and use a tiny bit of pool lube on the rubber parts when installing, but keep the white and black ceramic surfaces 100% free of any dirt, grease, etc while working with them. Installation is pretty much just the reverse. Install half the seal into the seal plate. Install the seal plate onto motor and bolt into place. Install other half of seal onto shaft. Screw impeller onto shaft and install screw (if one was there to start with) in center of impeller (reverse thread). install diffuser over impeller make sure it is centered and doesn't rub the impeller hub. Install new diffuser and valute o-rings. Hookup wiring before re-attaching to rest of pump. Clamp or bolt back together. Pour plenty of water into pot to prime and flip the motor on for a sec or two. Pour some more water. Install pot lid. You should be good to go. Keep in mind there are many different pumps and some variations to the above instructions, but the above should cover most situations. if something doesn't sound right let me know by commenting on this post, or sending email and I'd be glad to clarify. Good Luck!

Thank you for posting your question here on Fixya.com.

It could be the pump is bound up but it is more likely the motor is failing. It may be a small part such as the capacitor or the starting switch, but could also be more severe such as the winding itself. You will also want to examine the shaft where it passes thru the pump and motor and look for signs of rust from a pump seal leak.

If you are not familiar with testing these parts your best bet would be a local electric motor repair shop to see if the motor can be repaired or if it would need to be replaced. They should also be able to ensure there is no pump damage.

If this answer does not fix your problem, please comment with additional details prior to rating the answer. Positive feedback is appreciated once your problem is solved!

John

a rebuilt motor is the cheap way $85 ,new around 200, the impeller will need to be ID to get the right size motor. search for your local pool pump repair guy with free motor testing, use your zip code in the search. you might get your old motor rebuilt and thats even cheaper .. CLEAN POOL IS A SAFER POOL .. VOTE COMMENT .. thanks jay

depending on the motors style of start-up, if you have a centrifugal type of start winding switch, your motor may be trying to start on the run winding due to a defective contact on the centrifugal switch, if it is a capacitor type starer, you might have a defective capacitor once again the motor is trying to start on the run winding, a way to find out is to be there and listen to the motor when it tries to start and trips the barker, if the motor emits a loud humming noise you have a fault with the start-up winding control device, if the picture supplied with your post is correct the capacitor is the long cylindrical thing at the top of the motor, you can remove this and bring it to a motor shop, they can test this for you

depending on the pump you have, you'll need to remove the seal plate from the wet end and remove the impeller before you can remove the motor.

Please use or contact page feature at www.arrowmotor.net and include your motor model and serial number. I can try to get you the connection diagram. If by chance you have the 2 yellow, one red wire combination, the two yellow go together on either set of posts and the red goes alone on the other set of posts. There is no polarity to a capacitor so it does not matter which set is which, just what wires you pair together.

Usually this is one of the bearings in the motor. I don't know of a good shop in your area. Check pricing carefully. Sometimes it is only a few dollars more to buy a brand new motor.

Probably not. Take the capacitor off and inspect it for physical damage and if it looks ok take it to an electric motor shop for testing. Assuming it is ok your motor will probably need work or replacement.

hi,
firstly check simple things like if the control panel makes a click when the pump button is pressed, then check the fuse in the control panel. If both of these are fine, have a look in the limpet attached to the side/top of the motor, this contains a capacitor and it is the most likely cause of the pump failure. These can easily be replaced, but must be replaced like for like for all values printed on it.

notify goulds -----https://www.gouldspumps.com/en-US/Home/ or online search and open one of the 1000's of part sites

Yes this is an old thread but info is still helpful to those that are searching. Here is one diagram from a 3/4 motor. Be aware that most residential high voltage are 240v. This will have the motor turning a bit faster.

The values are stamped on the old capacitors. If you haven't got them, I would contact the manufacturers authorised agent for advice.

remove bump on motor and take picture of wiring before removing get numbers off try electrical supply

Try priming it water at the filter. Make sure that the filter o ring is sealing under the cap. Make sure there is enough water in the pool to enter the suction line and that it is not restricted.