20 Most Recent Briggs 3500W Port Generator Questions & Answers

Take the spark plugs out and try again. There are several reaons this could happen. Then remove starter motor and try again make sure starter motor is free to runInternal engine damageDamaged starter motorExcessive carbon in the cylinder heads (common)

The fuel filter is probably partially clogged or the adjustment screw for the fuel mixture on the carb has backed off due to vibration. Try turning in the screw in 1/8 th of a turn at a time every time you start it.

Screws always loosen due to vibration so you only have to adjust in to fix it.

Regards

TickMagnet

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/GEN_ENG/GN190-220.pdf
here is a link to the service / parts manual
joe

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/21018/Briggs-And-Stratton-030241-0.html#manual

Had this happen to me. The problem turned out to be a mouse nest inside the gaps around the flywheel(?) assembly that is behind the starter pull cord. I pulled off the starter and saw some mouse crud. I cleared that out and reassembled. Pulled the cord again and heard clunk, snap, and breaking pieces bouncing around. Everything was stuck again. Disassembled again to see some of the plastic blades of the fan snapped and there was a lot more mouse nest jammed in. Spent 2 hours digging out what must have been at least a basketball sized cloud of mouse nest. I had to dig, spin a little by hand, keep digging. Eventually I got it all out and the engine fired up nicely. It seems this design a a lot of wide open spaces that suit mice nicely. Combine that with years of storage with no use and you get an epic mouse nest.

Oil level is too high and thin from fuel. Check for stuck carburetor float or debris in fuel bowl or inlet needle.

It may also happen if the unit was moved and tipped at a severe angle.

Try disconnection oil level sensor. If problem goes away, replace sensor.

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Armature coil needs to be coaxed out, slight tap on the metal base with a screwdriver should take care of this.

Most generators are self energising. Residual magnetism in the armature causes a small output as soon as the alternator is turning at speed and circuitry feeds the small output through the brushgear into the armature to begin the energising cycle until the rated output is reached. As you obtain an output from the stator by "artificially" energising the armature, it is clear there is a fault in the control circuitry. There are wiring diagrams online but they aren't easy to follow...

There are reset breakers on the control panel. If the 110 outlets are GFI protected then the issue could be your cord or appliance. Please try some other type of item (Tool or lamp). If the breaker was over whelmed and tripped the breaker. The breaker is labeled and mounted on the control panel as well. Please write back if there is anything else.

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Then you need fuel! Make sure the gas is turned on. Pull the sparkplug after a few tries and see if it's wet with fuel or smells like it. Thats all a motor needs is spark and fuel! Well air too.

Possible but not likely. Wipe off the excessive oil and try to ascertain where it is leaking. Possibly loose hardware needs tightening or a gasket replaced. Could also be a crankshaft seal.

He Harry, its never fun when you work on something and its worse than when you started.. Take it to a qualified professional..

tankfilter not sludged tank fuel tap filter working clean it fuel hoses good ?(allways first take airfilter off in case of test temporarily) clean it with some fuel if its need will sometimes help) carburetor float chamber the sprinkler . in most cases the OILLEVEL can be to low level it to the right position The oil level must be against the screw of the dipstick if nothing helped disconnect the Oil surveillance but only Temporarily try it look the sparkplug for a good blue colored spark is the compression good the valves also old fuel isnt not allways a problem only when compression is bad because of Octane number