20 Most Recent Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner - Page 7 Questions & Answers

I think you mean compressor. It is basically the heart of the A/C unit. It compresses and pumps refrigerant through the unit. It compresses it so the outdoor unit will be able to remove heat from the refrigerant.

When charged was it charged by weight ? Was a low ambient kit installed? Have you monitored the amperage draw ?

the buzz you hear is most likely the contactor that brings the compressor on...the capacitor would be the most likely bad part as they seem to fail on regular basis...are there any burned wires that could be burned in two? the capacitor is the round silver canister that has 3 terminal clusters on top...a good sign that it is bad is the capacitor appears to have a bulging appearance on the top ...the top should be very flat with the terminals not tilted outward..hope this helps

Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. Make sure the fan switch on the thermostat is set to auto to turn the indoor blower off. If its the outside unit that will not shut off take the cover off the thermostat and disconnect the y wire and see if the outside unit shuts off. If the unit doesn't shut off then pull the cover to the outside unit and check to be sure that the contactor is not welded shut not allowing the outside unit to shut off.

The AEPF number is for an Amana air handler. I have a manual for this number. Send me an email address and I can forward it to you. Manual has diagram.

Possible Solutions:
You have no voltage going to the unit. You did not say if the compressor was running.
If no voltage then check the breakers. If breakers are tripped could be a bad motor or a shorted to ground compressor.
If the compressor is running possible solution could be a bad run capacitor.
Check for any lose wiring (MAKE SURE THE POWER IS OFF). Many problems occur because of dry contacts. Simply by tightening any wires and wire nuts and removing and reinstalling any spade connectors.

If you own indoor pets you will want to change the return air filters monthly like religously. You may also need to have the A-Coil other wise none as the evaporator coil cleaned manually. It is located inside the air handling unit inside the house somewhere. It could be restricting the air flow across the coil with daner and dust and/or deris. Sometimes it can be difficult to clean but with care and lots of elbow grease it can usually be done. Be careful not to bend the fins! Once this is completed and the unit still freezes up! Then you can be sure it is low on refrigerant 90% of the time! Cleaning the A-Coils is something you should do or have done anually!

Hi, I am assuming you are talking about the indoor coil icing up when you are in cooling. The reason I am asking this as this appears to be a heat-pump and they will ice up in the winter at the outdoor unit. I will go with the indoor coil. If the indoor fan is blowing up to speed and you have cleaned the indoor coil but still have this ice forming, it could very well be that you are low on freon. This will also cause the suction line, the large copper line outdoors to ice and on into the indoor coil. This will happen if you have developed a leak some where. Also, make sure you have good strong return air coming back through the air filter, because if you have problems with the duct work like holes from varments, or you have had any repairman around the duct work, sometimes they will flatten it causing no air flow and you will have ice. My bet is you are low on gas. Shut the unit off to make sure it has no ice on the coil, and go to the outdoor unit. Have someone turn it to cooling and put your hand above the fan on the condenser coil. The air should start to get warm and then hot if the freon level is ok. This also depends on the outdoor temperatures. The hotter it is outdoors, the hotter the air will be. If it is rather cool, around lets say 75*F, and this copper suction line is starting to form ice, the problem is it is low on freon. In this case, this is something you will need to call a tech out to charge the unit. You have to be certified and be able to buy the right freon which is only available to a/c and refrigeration tech's. If this is a heat -pump, and it is winter where you are and the outdoor coil is icing up, let me know and I can go through the steps to check this out. I do believe this is a summer problem where you may be, but you never know unless you ask. Please don't forget to rate me on this post as I am sure you will be kind. I wish I could save you a tech call, but if its low and you have cleaned the indoor coils, and filter is clean, then this is the problem.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

unit is light it weighs about 150 lb maybe less however thats not a 2 ton its a three ton im very aware of goodman model no.

please give me a rating and vote you need to check your capacitor it is bad if its good it will give readings does it look swollen sometimes they swell

Hi,
No you don't need the cover... in fact I recommend not covering because it traps moisture and gives rodents a great place to hide and stay warm over the winter...

heatman101

First turn off power to the outside unit and use a screwdriver or something that you can reach the fan blades with and make sure the fan rotates freely. If it doesn't you probably need a new fan. Next check the capacitor. If it looks swollen, it's bad. If it's not swollen then you will can use a multimeter with the capacitor test function and check it. You can also take it to a heating and air supply and they will test it. Some units use a double capacitor that runs the fan and the compressor so you will need to take note of where the wires connect to it.

Hi, and no, no, no,!! There is still plenty off the R-22 freon units that have been made, and there is plenty of the R-22 to last for another 15 years or so. If your compressor is fried, it should be around $12 to $1600.00 to replace it. This includes recovering freon, replacing the compressor, a new suction and liquid line drier and a new run capacitor. In fact, they sell a complete compressor change out kit for your unit right this minute, includes every thing he needs to to the job.This is a 3 ton unit and the price he quoted you was awefull!!! There are plenty of compressors on the market for your unit every where, he's just trying to sell you the new R410-a unit and stick it to you on the price. Call around and give them your model number and tell them your compressor is bad. Get several estimates. That compressor is available today, and I could call my supplier and have one with in the hour. Go with a new compressor, it will be years before they use up the R-22 we have. They still haven't used up the R-12. Please don't forget to rate me as I know you will be kind, and let me know if you need my help.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

If you have a crushed, kinked, or otherwise restricted fitting in the system, it's possible the cooling may be affected. Pressure readings can be thrown off, and refrigerant flow can be inhibited.

Since the unit is new, you should have a complete parts and labor warranty, so ask the installer what the reason is that the system doesn't provide the cooling you were probably promised when they sold it to you. They should have taken into account the location of the condensing unit, the size and insulation in your house, indoor and outdoor conditions, your geography/climate, and any other load factors before selling you the system.

Hi, and yes if this capacitor is getting hot enough to burn off wires, you are drawing to many amps at your compressor causing this. Did the old capacitor you replaced leak any oil, or was it swollen and deformed? I have seen a compressor last less then 6 months. If you had a amp probe the clamp around, you could check the running load amps, (R. L. A. ) at each leg of the compressor to see what each one was pulling. Like the R terminal, 11.8, C, 9.7, and the S or start, 8.9 amps and compare it to the data plate on the outdoor unit which tells you what it will be, like 21.7R.L.A., just a guess on yours. If it was much higher, you would know you have a problem. Whens the last time the outdoor coil was cleaned?? It should be cleaned every year as the head pressure will build in the system putting a load on the compressor and will cause these kinds of problems. Before I would condem the compressor, kill the power and take your water hose to the coil and give it a good washing. If dirty, it could bring the internal head pressures down by 50 p.s.i.! Do this to see if it takes care of the problem.If you had a service tech out to replace the cap, he should have put his manifold gauges on it and cleaned this coil for you. Be careful not to bend the aluminum fins down with to much pressure. If this is a dual run cap, it would be for the fan and compressor. It will have 3- sets of 3 to 4 spades coming out the top, 3 in a row marked Fan, C for common, and Herm for compressor. With a dirty coil, it will also cause this fan to run to hot and take out the capacitor. Do this for me and I believe this will solve the problem if the fan and compressor seem to be running quite and cooling good. Keep me posted on this. My gut tells me its a dirty coil causing this problem. Please be kind when rating me, that would be nice of you. I will be here if you need me.
Sincerely, and have a great 4th,
Shastalaker7
A/C & Heating Contractor

Hi,
The transformer is burnt out... you will need to replace it... this is common and they burn out easily if a low voltage wire it shorted even for a split second, or if there is a brown out...

They best way to prevent this is by installing a 5 amp fuse ahead of the transformer in the high voltage line so that it blows before the transformer goes...

heatman101

Hi,
Your indoor motor is going bad and not running full speed...

Here is a tip about troubleshooting your air conditioner...
There are many things that can cause your air conditioner not to cool…

Air Conditioner Trouble - Review the Possibilities

heatman101

Hi, this unit has a time delay relay built into the thermostat and also has a small time delay relay that is in the condenser unit. Since both units are coming on, but the compressor is not energized, this tells me the delays are working if the outdoor unit kicks on, so that rules the delays out. Even though this unit is brand new, what will keep this compressor from coming on is if when this system was installed, they did a poor job on there brazing of the copper joints and it may have lost its freon charge. This happens a lot. It will shut off on its low pressure switch. Everything seems to be working good from what you have said but the compressor. There is nothing you can do, but you can call out the installers to find out what is keeping the compressor off as it is still under warranty, and the compressor will have a 1-year warranty anyway. Come to think of it, if it has lost its freon, the fan would not run on the condenser outdoors, so that's not the problem. It may have a problem with the compressor, as I have seen them come from the factory with problems!! It does happen, you know the saying even though its new doesn't mean it works. Call them out a.s.a.p. to solve this for you as you may have lost the compressor already. Do this now and keep me posted. Please don't forget to rate me on this as I know you will be kind. I will keep checking back in on you as I keep all of your information on file if I need to get in touch with you, and you can reach me through my user name below. Keep me updated on this, so call them out know and say you want them out now. You paid good hard earned $$$ for this so you should not have to wait.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor

Hi, this is a 3 ton unit. It may or may not have a variable speed fan. You are saying it turns very slow or just stops. I believe you either have a problem with the run capacitor, or you are loosing this motor. They are putting variable speed blower motors on some units now, but if you are talking about your condenser fan motor, it may have a head pressure control to speed up this motor when the ambient temperature is higher and slower when cooler, but to stop when running indicates a motor or run capacitor problem. Check the cap. for oil leaks, swollen and deformed, burned terminals. If you find this, replace it. Remove the fan guard and carefully with the power off after it has ran for a while touch to see how hot the body of the motor is. If it is to hot to touch, you are loosing this motor. If you have a clamp around amp probe or know someone who may, you can look at the data plate to see what this motor should be drawing as far as amps and compare your readings to this. You will know for sure doing it this way.
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating Contractor