20 Most Recent KitchenAid Superba Architect KSCS25INSS Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 3 Questions & Answers


ICE MAKER not making ice
Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.

WATER INLET VALVE:

Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.

The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:

If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced

On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.
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KitchenAid... | Answered on May 07, 2015


Yours is controlled by a defrost control, board 2307028 Defrost Control Board
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It is determined when to defrost electronically, Thanks, Sea Breeze
SEA BREEZE APPLIANCE PARTS

KitchenAid... | Answered on Apr 24, 2015


I had the same problem, the only good part is that I went to get ice and got a cup full of ice and water... I realized the fridge was failing, so I transferred all my food to my spare fridge. I only had it because it failed a few months ago, and it took 2 weeks to get the part (control unit in the top of the fridge). This time, it was the other control unit in the rear of the unit. This one controls the condenser/evaporator, etc. The repair man said it was both the ECU and the Inverter box. He showed me that it was burned (brown discoloration of the Inverter). He wanted over 500 to replace these parts. I just ordered the parts from appliancezone.net for $230. But I am handy enough to install them. If you are not, please let the repair man do it... otherwise, if you are, or you have a friend that can... it is VERY easy. The part numbers are 2307028 ECU and W10133449 Inverter Box (This is the new model that replaces 2304175)

KitchenAid... | Answered on Apr 24, 2015


You indicator light on your fridge is set on a timer. If you never took a single glass of water it would go on after six months or so. It is just an aide to remind you. To replace it, firmly turn counterclockwise about a quarter turn with a little pressure pulling down or out depending on the location of the filter. You need not turn off water. Replace with new one.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Apr 07, 2015


The most common problem is the condensing coil is probably loaded with lint and debris. In behind most refrigerator is a fan and it blows on condensing coils. If the condenser is dirty and blocks air flow, the cooling system can not shed the heat. These coils should be checked at least every year, more often if you have pets that shed a lot.
Hope this helps.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Feb 20, 2015


Before you go any farther stop. Unplug the refrigerator for the wall receptacle then look into the light socket (use a mirror if necessary), now see that contact point in the bottom of the socket? Raise that contact point to where it will ouch the bulb when you screw it back in. Now screw in the bulb plug in the refrigerator and open the door. Did I do OK ?
supertechks

KitchenAid... | Answered on Jan 02, 2015


I have the same refrigerator and was having a very similar problem. My water would dispense just fine, but the ice maker suddenly began making partial cubes of ice, then quit making ice, than started again before finally stopping again. At first I thought it was because the fill tube coming from the back of the frig was frozen, but after clearing it the problem persisted. I traced the problem back to the valve at the back right corner of the frig. I disconnected the power inputs and water lines, then took the valve apart. On the side that feeds the ice maker there is a small washer inside of the valve with a very small hole that only allows a limited amount of water flow through it. A small pieced of rubber had broken loose from another section of the valve an was clogging this small hole. I cleaned the entire valve system and reassembled it. The ice maker is now back in action!!! The fill tube going into the tray had frozen because of the small trickle of water that was going into it was not sufficient to keep it from freezing. Make sure this is still clear before turning everything back on. I hope this helps several of you out there, as this seems to be a common problem.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Dec 14, 2014


Remove the ice bucket/container from inside the freezer compartment. Examine underneath at the front of the container to see if ice cubes are lodged between the metal blades. If cubes are caught in this area, they will prevent ice from dropping into the glass/cup.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Sep 21, 2014


Buy the peg to replace it,then turn the broken one clockwise 45 to 90 degrees and take it out.
put the new one In and turn it 45 to 90 degrees to lock it in place.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Sep 05, 2014


Most likely your defrost element(s) are burned out and the evaporator coil is frozen over.

KitchenAid... | Answered on Aug 02, 2014


There are heaters located inside the door frame, to prevent your doors from freezing shut, and also to prevent condensation on the outside of the appliance. It sounds to me as though that is where your problem is... Hope this helps

KitchenAid... | Answered on Jul 14, 2014

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