20 Most Recent KitchenAid KSRG25FKSS Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

your door magnet is bad

This is a result of moisture. Look for leaking door seals.

Make sure there is not too much product in the freezer...need room for air to circulate properly. Also check to see if there is a fan that transfers the cold air to the refrigerator...make sure it works correctly. Put a thermometer in the refrigerator & freezer...monitor temperatures.

Por favor Clique Aqui = Atendimento ao Cliente> Whirlpool Maytagor herehttp://whirlpoolmaytagcustomerassistance.blogspot.com/

air flow problem or low capacity system

It appears the model listed on the post is not the same as your model because the model listed has a mechanical temp control that is item 5 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5132929&diagram_id=28175033#d28175033

I am assuming you have a different Kitchen-Aid unit that has thermistor controlled temps. Given that assumption.....this is probably way to much information but you need to understand how your unit works:

TEMPERATURE CONTROL

The electronic control checks the resistance of

the thermistors, and compares it to both the

customer temperature settings and the last

thermistor reading taken. This information is

used to determine when to begin a cooling

operation, and if a change is necessary in the

damper setting, or the evaporator fan or compressor

speed.

When a warm refrigerator is first put into a

cooling mode, the air door partially opens, and

the compressor and evaporator fan motors

start to run at maximum rpm. The air door will

gradually move to its fully open position.

As the actual temperature in the refrigerator

nears the selected temperature setting, the

electronic control compares the temperatures

in both compartments. The compartment that

has the greatest need for cooling, will control

the speed of the evaporator fan motor.

Freezer Temperature Control -

Temperature Increasing

When the freezer calls for cooling, the compressor

begins to run at minimum rpm, (see the

chart on page 3-3), and the evaporator fan

begins to run at 2000 rpm. The compressor

and evaporator speeds are continuously updated.

Speed changes are made based on:

• The difference between the actual temperature

and the selected temperature settings.

• The rate of temperature change.

If the temperature increases 4°F above the

selected temperature setting, the evaporator

fan speed begins to gradually increase. The

evaporator fan motor reaches the maximum

speed of 3000 rpm at 5°F above the selected

temperature setting, and the compressor speed

begins to gradually increase. A maximum compressor

speed of 4500 rpm will be reached at
9°F above the selected temperature setting.
Freezer Temperature Control -

Temperature Decreasing

When the freezer temperature begins to decrease,

the process will reverse. The compressor

speed decreases, followed by the evaporator

fan speed.

Refrigerator Temperature Control -

Temperature Increasing

When the refrigerator calls for cooling while

the freezer is satisfied, the air door begins to

open, and the evaporator fan starts to run at

minimum speed. If the temperature continues

to rise, the air door will continue to open. If the

temperature continues to rise after the air door

is fully open, the evaporator fan speed will

gradually increase to a maximum of 3000 rpm.

If the temperature continues to rise, the compressor

starts to run, or if it has already been

running, begins to increase in speed.

Refrigerator Temperature Control -

Temperature Decreasing

As the refrigerator temperature approaches the

selected setting, the control compares the temperatures

in both compartments to determine

which compartment will control the fan speed.

If the freezer is further from the selected temperature

setting, it controls the fan speed, and

the air door begins to close, thus reducing the

airflow to the refrigerator.

If the freezer is satisfied, the air door remains

open, and the fan speed begins to decrease.

When the selected temperature setting is

reached, the air door closes.

Here is the bottom line.... the termperatures are controlled by thermistors in the freezer and refrigerator compartments. Most likely you have a thermistor problem. The freezer thermistor is on the left wall near the back and the refrigerator compartment thermistor is on the back panel left side. They are accessed by removing the single mounting screw and tilting the cover off with the retained thermistor. The thermistor connectors are directly behind the cover. The resistance of the thermistors should be (in Ohms)

8750 at 32 deg

10,400 - 11000 at 25 deg

6800 - 7220 at 40 deg.

If you have no resistance or the resistance readings are way off and / or shorted the thermistor is bad.

If it checks good:

NOTE: If the resistance of the thermistor(s)

was normal, perform the following voltage test.

1. Set the voltmeter to read a maximum

voltage of 10 volts DC.

2. Connect power to the refrigerator and

allow it to enter the "cooling" mode.

3. With the thermistor disconnected and the

refrigerator in the cooling mode, touch the

voltmeter test probes to the thermistor

main harness connector pins. The meter

should indicate approximately 5 volts DC.

If the voltage was not present, check for a
thermistor output at the main control board.

If it fails this test the problem is most likely the control board.

Check them out and let me know what you found out.

If I totally missed the mark here please respond with a good model number so I can go back and start all over.

Thank for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

Hello,


Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

I hope this will helpout in solving the problem......

if there is ice in the mold then the problem is the ice maker unit , replace the ice maker for the fix.
Phil

Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees.
Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it's frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don't refill with water.
ICE MAKER NOT GETTING WATER
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. It's on the back where the water supply comes in. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.

The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube.. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.

A strainer before the inlet valve can also get stopped up restricting flow.

Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator
Refrigeratornot Cooling or Fridge not Cooling

How to Defrost Refrigerator DefrostTimer Problem

WaterRunning in refrigerator from Freezer

Refrigeratoror Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold
heatman101

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101