20 Most Recent Troy-Bilt Chipper Shredder - Page 7 Questions & Answers

you are clearly burning oil. did you overfill? or tilt the unit so that engine oil went into the carb through the breather? now the carb may be soiled/partly clogged, you need to clean it. esp. the idler air part may be at fault. sometimes it is possible to run it at high rev until the fuel has washed out the oil, but better clean the carb and replace the air filter.

it is how much power the motor has. In the old days people travelled on horses . One horse produced one horse power. So if you had a buggy with 5 horses attached to it you had a five horse power buggy. So your schredder engine has the equivalent power produced by five horses. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower

Sounds like you put too much sta-bil in it.drain the tank put fresh gas in it.take the carb off and clean it out and should run ok.

drive both screws all the way in gently clockwise until just snug; then back out both screws counterclockwise one and one half turns the engine should start then adjust for smooth operation and easy starting

If your getting spark no doubt its a fuel problem. Does the inside of the cylinder look wet when you removed the plug. The seals in carb go bad all the time. You need a rebuild kit most likely. Very cheap an easy to do. If its a bowl carb it should be done. Should solve your problem. Starting problems are no spark or no fuel. Carb leak an seal get weaker all the time. Gas the way its made today eats the seals away.

if you are using fuel that has alcohol in it, that can cause the float to sink and all the seals to become brittle.

replace your ignition module

hate to say this but it sounds as if your carb needs cleaning as the fuel flow is being restricted at the un-choked position. Before you have to take the carb apart, try this. Go to Walmart, or Northern Tools and buy a can of "SEAFOAM" which is a fuel additive that cleans carb jets and passages, and may over time unclog your jets. Other cleaners on the market work so if you can't find SEAFOAM, then use another. Siphon all of the old fuel out of your tank into a plastic jug, put fresh fuel into your tank.Pour twice the amount recommended in to your tank, and start the machine with the choke on and let it get the fuel mixture running into the carb. Run it as long as possible and when it dies out, let it sit for a full day and night. Try it again and repeat the running process.

The fuel that you use is 10% ethanol and alcohol is very hydroscopic and sucks in water and combines it with the gasoline. This water latches on to dirt and grime, and junk and eventually clogs the jets. If you let the gasoline with the ethanol sit in your tank unused for more than three months, it becomes jelly like. That is why it is a prudent measure to run all of the gasoline out of your machine before it sits for anytime longer than 3 months. Some wag said that the government mandate to add 10% ethanol to gasoline was just a full employment contract for engine repairmen. If you plan on leaving gasoline in small engines for a period of time you need to add some "Stabil" to it to prevent jelling of the gasoline.

check this website........brentchalmers.com

Hi. Here is the link to the troy-bilt page which will permit you to a free download of the manual you need. Joe

http://troybilt.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/338/session/L3NpZC9PbjI2d1Viaw%3D%3D

4 thumbs up please. thanks.

Hi,

Read the Solution offered Directly from one of the People who removed the same :-

To get the impeller assembly off, I took a sacrificial bolt and replaced the bolt used to hold the impeller assembly on to the shaft. I borrowed a very large wheel puller from a friend and got the assembly off.

You can buy the parts from buymtdonline.com. If the impeller assy has self-destructed like mine did you will probably most likely have to replace the screen as well.

Let me know, if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

If it is a gas powered system it will have a choke. It could be some sort of automatic configuration without a lever for the end user to adjust however so we'll start with the basics. All engines need fuel, air, and spark to run. Since you know that you ran out of fuel try cycling the engine without starting to get some fuel into the system. You can do this a couple ways but the easiest would be to disconnect the spark plug pull the string start or turn the key a couple times. While your at it you may want to pull out the spark plug and see if the point is fouled. A little WD-40 and some fine grit sandpaper will clean it up pretty easily.

You can also check the air filter / exhaust. the usually have some foam type insert in or around. if it looks melted and not spongy you'll wnat to replace it.

I have had a similar problem with my lawnmower and although they are not the same machine, the principals behind the engine operation are.

Let me know if you are able to get it running.

I have a owners manual for a Garden Way Chipper/ac Model 47031. Contact me and we'll figure out a way to get it to you. banderson@ptd.net I'm looking for someplaxce to buy the Fan & Chipper Disk Assembly, P/N 1763255. Anyone ave a source?

Try looking at www.precisionope.com. If you can not find a manual, At least you can find an Illustrated parts list and diagrams.

sharpen the blades they are dull

You will need to turn the flails (also called cylinder hammers).  Each flail has  4 sharp corner cutouts, only one of which is in use.  When you turn them you get to use a fresh corner, the dull one is still there but no longer contacts the stuff you are chipping.  You will need to remove the chute to access the flywheel, and by rotating the flywheel access the steel bars (cylinder pins) that hold the flails and spacers.  I lay the chipper down, with a 5 gallon bucket protecting the engine, gas tank, to access the bottom, so that you can, using a punch, drive out the 3/16X3/4 roll pin which can be found in one of the long spacers.  You will note each bar has 4 flails, with two long spacers and two short spacers and the roll pin goes through one of the long spacers.  You buy the roll pin punch at a hardware store.   There are four sets of bars with spacers and flails, so four roll pins.  You will want four fresh roll pins also, because the old ones are compressed and shouldn't be used again.  When you have punched out the roll pin you can then drive the bar from the end (where the chute was) but be sure to line the other end of the bar up with the hole on the other sidewall of the chipping compartment.   When you are trying to punch out the roll pin it helps to stabilize the fly wheel--I use a couple of vise grips in a way that the fly wheel is stable.  When you are pounding out the bar (called a cylinder pin) you will need a slightly lesser diameter long (6-8") bolt as a driver.  You can pound on it and it will follow the cylinder pin as it gets pushed out the other side.   When the spacers and flails fall out onto the floor, then you can turn the flails to use a fresh cutting corner and put the spacers and flails back on.  I find it helpful to file the rough edges of the inside ends of the spacers so they slide easily on the cylinder pins.  Get a round file for this purpose.  Also, keep some WD 40 on hand because these things tend to be stuck.  I do only one cylinder pin (with its four flails and four spacers) at a time, so I correctly put it all back in the right order.   You will see that the the order alternates.) 

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