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Bought used travel trailer, hot water heater won't stay lit

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  • Contributor
  • 57 Answers

Check to see if ignitor is clean. also make sure voltage is at least 10.6v use a small file and clean ignitor also check connections, clean if necessary.

Posted on May 11, 2017

  • Greg Scott
    Greg Scott May 11, 2017

    I may have to disagree on this answer, partially, Scott. Checking to see if the igniter is creating a spark to light the LP would be first. But if you have plenty of sparking to ignite then you probably need to clear out the LP line. To do this you need to disconnect each section and push air through it. If you have an air compressor, great, or you can do like I did and use a pump for inflating an air mattress. The brown residual that comes out is the LP that has turn into a gel bring exposed to air and no escape (coagulated). If you get a lot out, you may want to do this to your furnace as well as s preventive measure do you don't get caught in a freeze without heat.

  • Scott Peeples
    Scott Peeples May 13, 2017

    if u use a compressor that is so wrong. u will blow the lines out. use an lp detector. its a 30 dollar unit. i was offering a quick solution. DO NOT USE A COMPRESSOR.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Bought an old 1984 Terry Taurus Travel Trailer

see if control knob pushes in while in pilot posistion ,if so place in pilot posistion and keep depressed for at least 1minute after lighting pilot light then move to on ...gd luck chris

Posted on Jun 18, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem 40 gallon gas hot water heater, pilot light

To make a short story long (I need to include all details, sry)…

I got up one morning and realized that we did not have hot water. I re-lit the pilot light and as soon as the burner went out from heating the water up, the pilot light would go out. After reading several posts regarding this issue, it seemed apparent that the thermo-coupler was the problem. Since I am a little bit handy around the house and very tight when it comes to opening my wallet, I bought the device from Lowe’s ($8.98) that was recommended by my online advisors and after a few googles, figured out how to change it. No help. The pilot light still goes out.

I gave up and went to Home Depot to purchase and schedule the installation of a new hot water heater.

STICKER SHOCK

A new Direct Vent type water heater costs around $800 with an additional $450 for “special” installation. Add a few fees to that and the grand total came to about $1450.

I felt like I had no choice since my wife and 2 daughters refused to live their life without hot water and I had no clue about how to fix the dam thing.

The plumber assigned to the installation stopped by to evaluate the site conditions and quickly noted to me that the 8 year old water heater tank was in good condition and that the gas controller was probably faulty, which could be purchased online from the manufacturer. I quickly cancelled the Home Depot order and purchased the controller for about $120 after shipping and tax. Immediately after the installation it seemed that the problem had been solved. A few days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and explained the situation and he recommended that I purchase another controller because the one that was shipped to me was probably bad. I searched around town and found a plumbing supply company that had the correct model in stock. Two days later the pilot light was out. I cleaned up the controller and returned it to the store and asked the plumber to please schedule a visit to repair this dam thing.

When the plumber arrived, he hooked up a gauge in several locations and confirmed that the correct amount of gas (cfm) was being delivered to the controller, pilot light and burner. He then proceeded to remove the fire box to make sure that the igniter, thermo-coupler and pilot tip were set properly. He inspected the pilot light tip and said that he found the problem. Using about a 1/64” tip drill (can be purchased at a welding supply store), he cleaned the tiny hole that releases gas to the pilot light. I felt a sigh of relief because I was certain that the problem had been solved. $65 dollars (plumber’s fee for an hour of work) and 4 days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and he said that the controller that I purchased online must be bad. Too embarrassed to return to the first plumbing supply store, I found another one in a different town that had the correct model in stock. Three days after changing the controller the pilot light went out. I returned the controller and a six pack later I decided to do some extensive googling.

The key term here is “DIRECT VENT”. This seems to be a very common problem with direct vent water heaters and I was about to find out the reason for this phenomenon. I read a post by an individual who wrote that if the vent becomes detached that the inflow of air can become contaminated and extinguish the pilot light. I decided that before I spent any more money on a plumber that I was going to take the vent apart and find out what makes it tick.

My direct vent system has 2 parts to the venting, an inner pipe (3” nominal diameter) that serves as the exhaust and the outer pipe (5” nominal diameter) that serves as the internal flow of air which supplies the pilot light and burner with oxygen. On the outside of the house a vent hood helps to segregate the two by extending the exhaust about 3” beyond the intake. I looked into the hood at the end of the pipes and discovered that the internal pipe which consisted of a 2 piece slip joint had come loose from the elbow that sets on top of the water heater. This slip joint pipe was not attached at any point with screws or clamps and was loosely setting over the elbow on one end and into the hood on the other end, allowing it to detach. Apparently, when atmospheric conditions were right, the burner idled down from heating up the water and extinguished the pilot light because the intake was saturated with CO2 from the connection failure.

I purchased a section of 3” pipe that was long enough to be installed in one piece. I connected it to the elbow using a stainless steel hose clamp. I had to disassemble the pipe 3 times to make adjustments to the length and position before I got it right, but I should not have any more problems with the pilot light.

The problem here is time. It takes a lot of time to get this right. When the plumbing contractors installed this unit during the construction of the house, there was no one around to make sure that they got it right. It is probably common to use a 2 piece slip joint type connection, but I feel like it should be attached with screws or clamps. In my opinion it is not rigid enough and can detach easily, especially if it is not installed properly. A one piece connection that is attached at one end with a hose clamp and then held in place at the other end by the hood is fool proof.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: i have a richmond gas hot water heater model

resetting your lock out for richmond power vent

Posted on Nov 26, 2009

john224
  • 1378 Answers

SOURCE: Natural gas hot water heater not stying lit

Probably a bad solenoid in the gas valve. Higher voltage of a new thermocouple keeps it open longer but it still fails over a period of time. Look into a new gas valve for the water heater.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

c7121
  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: The pilot light & will stay lit. untill the burner cycles on/off

MAKE SURE THE BURNER TUBE AND ORIFICES ARE CLEAN. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE PROPER LP PRESSURE.

Posted on Jan 09, 2010

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