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The first thing to do is to drain the fresh water tank. Drain the hot water heater. Install the RV antifreeze by allowing the water pump to be pumped into the water lines by opening the valve for this process. Open each water valve on all the sinks and the toilet valve as the RV antifreeze is being sucked into the water system and run until the color changes to the color of the antifreeze. Allow each trap to have antifreeze in it also, sinks, shower drain etc. Remove the inline water filter if one is installed and install the bypass plug in its place.
I actually am not able to get rid of the antifreeze taste from the water system so I blow air into the hot water tank drain at a low pressure until all the valve at each place water is controlled. Do not forget the outside sprayer and the shower hose and the shower head.
I allow the pressure to build up to 20 psi or so and then go into the unit and open each faucet until all the water is pushed out of the lines. Then I dump antifreeze into each P trap. Do not use the antifreeze used in the engine cooling system but the non toxic type made especially for RV water systems.
Go to an RV parts store for a winterizing bypass kit for the water heater. Use POTABLE RV antifreeze and follow the instructions on the bottle. Drain all the water out of the water tank. Install the bypass kit on the water heater if it doesn't already have one. Put the water heater in the bypass mode. Add the antifreeze to the water tank. Open every water faucet including the shower head one at a time until antifreeze is present. Do this for hot and cold on every faucet. Once that is done, turn off the water pump and open all the faucets. That's all there is to it. Rember... DO NOT use automotive antifreeze. It will kill you.
Probable cause would be a leaking check valve in the pump.
On the RV the city water and discharge from the fresh water pump are tied together. When on city water the discharge of the pump will have city water pressure on it. If the internal check valve on the pump is leaking, water will flow through the pump backwards and into your fresh water tank.
Unfortunately most RV hot water heaters DO NOT have a heat adjustment on them. Remember it is only (usually) a 6 gallon tank. The best suggestion I to use less cold water when mixing the water and remember to shut off the water in between soaping up and rinsing off. Google "navy showers" and you should find more info!
It is possible that there is an open valve on the back of the water heater which is allowing the hot and cold to mix. Locate the back of the water heater. You will see a water line going into the bottom of the water heater. That is cold water in and there will be a valve on that line. It should be open (The handle inline with the direction of the pipe). At the tope there will be another pipe coming out. That is the hot water out. It may or may not have a valve but if it does make sure that it is open. Then there will be a water line connecting the top and bottom water lines and it will have a valve in it. Make sure that the valve in this line is closed. That is a winterizing bypass valve. If this does not correct the problem let me know and I will give you more steps to consider.
At the back of the water heater there will be a series of valves. One on the bottom, sometimes one on the top and then one in a line that connects the top to the bottom lines. Make sure the middle valve is closed and the top and bottom valves are open. If there is not a valve on the top that can be manually opened and closed then there is a check valve installed. This check valve will allow the hot water out of the tank but will prevent the back flow of cold water during the winterization bypass. If the valve on top is closed it will not allow hot water out. If the middle valve is opened it will allow the cold water to mix with hot water and defeat the purpose having a water heater. Close the middle open the top and bottom. If there is not one on top then the check valve is probably clogged or has failed and need to be cleaned or replaced.
check to see if setiment has settled on the pilot....blow it out with air if it has. This issue comes up often with water heaters and rv refers. If that is not the problem and the pilot remains lit, but never increases when the thermostat is turned up, you probably need a new gas valve/thermostat.
basically you get as much of the water out as possible and add antifreeze to the traps and low points. Getting water out involves pulling the cathode/drain on your hot water tank and changing around the bypass valves so you don't have to fill it with antifreeze. There should be low point drains on the trailer (mine has two) Use only the PINK antifreeze which is safe for potable systems. I would reccomend a search on youtube as there are several good videos. Also you may want to pay an RV dealer to do this and watch first time. Once you know what to do it is pretty simple.