Left side fender damage by tire blow-out. Cost to replace fender.

RV makers are often very secretive on wiring diagrams. If you have a test meter, test the voltage behind the breakers and fuses and then on the delivery side. Then check at the lights themselves.

https://www.google.com/search?q=2001+pleasureway+rv+wiring+diagram

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notify jayco for wiring assistance --or start tracing / matching lines to run new lines

Plastic water Pipes run along the inside floor close to the Outside walls of the Unit.

It is not likely a flat tire would puncture a Water line but, possible the Unit's Storage tank water line went higher than the Tank Vent when tipped on the Drivers side due to the flat tire or more likely a Pipe Joint became separated during a cold spell and became evident with vibration of the flat tire.
https://crossroadsrv.com/image/data/OwnersManualPDF.pdf

More information? You'll need to talk to your Dealer?

Most forums regarding the Jayco Sunnybrook 3310 have positive feedback. Just like buying anything of that age, you need to examine it thoroughly, inside, outside, topside, underside and in every panel where components, switches, valves or other items may be hidden.

The roof is where I like to start:
Is it new, recently replaced or several coats of sealant that looks like it was whitewashed, is the surface smooth or can you see the support ribs at regular intervals. Look at the AC units and the typical drainage stains from the frame tray. Also check along edges for cracks in the silicone or caulking. If you see fresh lap seal, make sure to examine the same area on the inside for evidence of water leakage.

Next, check the sides and nose.
The same applies for fresh silicone or caulking. Be sure to look closely at the fiberglass gel coat; it should be a clean and smooth surface. Look down the sides lengthwise to see any deformations, dips or roses that should be flat. Small spideweb looking surfaces are showing the start of more extensive fiberglass repairs that will be needed later. Silicone or caulking around the windows also need checking.

Undercarriage.
Crawl underneath with a good LED flashlight. Anything over 100 lumens with fresh batteries will be perfect to see problems. Framing, to include dents, cracks and rust. Any fuel lines that may be present for a generator, if so equipped, regardless of the type of fuel used. Tires; general condition, wear patterns, cracking or wheel damage. Springs; rust or corrosion, cracks in the metal, especially on the longest leaf that has the eyelets. A heavy, tripple axle like mine with 6 leafs are not expensive but the cost of replacements and repairs when one snaps can definitely run a vacation. Shocks; brake new or do they look like OEM that are worn out. Shocks that do not rebound properly will cause extensive stress on your leaf springs and eventually snap, which may then cause a tire to blow followed by body damages and another ruined vacation. Besides; you should have electric brakes. With the detaching pin removed and why wheel off the ground, try rotating a wheel. You should have slight resistance. If it sounds free and you do not hear anything, brakes need adjusting or possibly replacement. Jacks and legs; make sure they are smooth when cranking by hand and no resistance unless under a load from the camper. The front legs (jack stands) and wheels support the camper, scissor jacks in the rest stabilize the back end. The front legs are electric and should also be smooth to operate. A dead/life battery will not work well and need charging or replacement. 5th wheel; or to be more precise, the frame attaching point for the 5th wheel, rust, cracks, corrosion and bird nesting up inside the neck. Cable connector; hook it up to a truck to check lighting functions. All side markers, tail lights, primer light, turn signals and brake lights should work, just like it would to pass a state vehicle inspection.

As you can see by the details I have already provided, it is quite extensive to do a good inspection to protect yourself. If they tell you it was inspected, that just means they took care of anything that is noticeable or was too obvious to leave undone. Do the same for the inside, like you would your home or cars and especially storage areas and access panels. If I was being paid to inspect the unit, it would take me 1-1.5 hours if everything goes well, longer if issues are found.

For any motorhome you should weight the coach. Get all four weights, each corner, and then using the tire manufacturers guide, which you can get online, see what cold pressure they recommend.

Find the highest weight for the axle and use that weight for the pressure chart.

I then usually increase that pressure by 5 psi and put the same in both sides of that axle. Over inflating, max psi, will cause wandering, bad tire wear, and even a very hard ride. Underinflation will also cause bad tire wear but early failure.

Somewhere either on the lower body line or under the body line near the frame around the middle of the slide, you should find a small diameter hole, maybe about 1 to 1-1/2", for a specific crank handle to be inserted. If on the body panel, it should have a rubber grommet/O-ring to identify it. If on the frame, no grommet but the crank will fit through it to reach into the inside of the frame to engage to motor manually. Depending on the specific location, it could be between tires or within the fender well of the tire. If the slide is already out, it should be much easier to spot the insertion hole on the frame. That motor is attached to the frame for rigidity and support either directly or by a sub-frame section. Don't be affraid to stick your head up under there with a good light source to find it.

Your Holiday Rambler most likely has an LT35/85-16, which is the most common for campers, 5th wheels and toy haulers. However, what you need to look for is the info plate on the unit, showing the VIN, tire size and pressure for each tire and the GVRW for your unit. Look for the Load Range. Depending on the axles and weight, you most likely have Load Range E. If you are looking for replacement tires, you may want to consider an ST235/85-16E. The ST has a hard composition rubber so the life and mileage is much longer, besides usually being less expensive.

Just to give you an example from my personal trailer, the Goodyear LT235/85-16 Load Range G average cost is @ $340.00/ tire but the replacement ST235/85-16 Load Range G cost$185.00 each. Great warranty, longer life and much cheaper. I am a Full Time RV'er traveling all over the country so mind gets a lot of mileage. It's worth the switch.

The tire specs should be printed on the sides of the tire and will include wheel diameter.

Check to ensure that it's not the cabinets or the frame they are mounted on that hasn't warped or shifted. If the camper is a 2015 take that puppy back to the dealership and have them do it. There shouldn't be a charge, especially if the issue is a broken or damaged part that is still under warranty!

Which frame jack? The front landing gear or the stabilizer jacks at the rear of the coach? The principle in leveling is to utilize the tires and axles as the primary point of level. Make sure that you have your wheels/tires level from side to side first. Then using the landing gear at the front level from front to rear. The stabilizer jacks at the rear are not designed to support the total weight of the unit but rather to remove the bounce and sway. If the unit is raised too high with the stabilizer jacks the unit could fall to one side or the other damaging the jacks, the trailer or worse injuring someone.