This is a brand new camper.I filled the fresh water opened the water heater bypass turn on the pump and will not turn on.just blows the 20 amp breaker.I am wondering if they have the wires on the pump switched?can anybody help?
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Typically, when your unit is winterized, the tanks and hot water are emptied; at least they should have been. What you need to do is connect a hose like you would to use fresh water and open the valve. Then go to reach faucet in your unit and open them, one at a time until the pink fluid goes clear and then wait another 10-15 seconds before closing. Once all faucets, shower and toilet have been purged of anti freeze, Make Sure the bypass on the hot water heater is opened to let water fill the tank before you turn on the power, for electric, to prevent burning up the heating element. Once all is done, you should be able to do the valve to have water directed into your fresh water tank. For future reference, the drain hose will be at a low point, under the belly with a valve. If the lever is online with the drain hose/tube, the line is open. Make sure the lever is perpendicular (90 degrees) to the line to be closed so you can fill the fresh water tank.
There should be plugs underneath the camper to drain the water tanks. Remove them and let the water drain. There should also be a plug on the water heater, remove and let water drain. There is also a bypass valve on the water heater to divert water away from the heater, turn this to bypass. After the water has drained replace the plugs except the water heater plug. The heater plug can stay out. Fill fresh water tank with RV antifreeze, usually about 3 gallons or maybe a little more for larger RVs. Run pump opening faucets one by one till water is forced out and the antifreeze flows including toilet. When antifreeze is flowing out the faucets close faucets and shut off pump. When pump is shut off open faucets, the antifreeze may get slushy in very cold conditions but wont freeze and a little may drip out of the faucets. The water heater may still have a small amount of water in it but shouldn't be a problem if you leave the plug out. Make sure the blackwater and greywater tanks are empty, you can dump a little antifreeze down the drains and toilet to make sure the sink traps are free from water and the blackwater tank has antifreeze in it. Other than that just shut the propane tanks off and youre done. Try to leave a couple of windows cracked slightly to promote airflow and reduce condensation inside the camper
For years I used a yard hose - connected to the motorhome and filled the hose with RV antifreeze. Pressurized the hose with a compressor and an adapter on the other end of the hose. All that is left to do is open the faucets and wait for the pink antifreeze to come out - do not forget to bypass the water heater - you should
also flush the toilet. This simulates the same supply as the city water hookup. The water pump can also be used to circulate the
antifreeze but hoses need to be hook up to syphon the liquid out of the gallon container.
Many RVs have the plumbing to fill the fresh water tank from the city water hook up. This valve is usually near the city water hook up and labeling is similar to "city water" and "tank fill". Another anomaly from leaving the valve in the "tank fill" position is that, when not connected to city water, the on board pump may run continuously and the water volume is very low.
Find where the fresh water tank fill is located. Directly below that under the coach you should see a single low point drain for the fresh water tank. It may have a cap on it but it may also have a valve at the location of the drain hose to the tank fitting.
there is probably a stoppage in the relief opening. should be next to the potable water fill. are you trying to fill from the pressure inlet or potable fill inlet? if from the pressure inlet, there is a bypass valve by the fresh water tank to divert watr into it.
Connect the trailer to the city water supply, turn on the water and open each faucet until clean clear water is present. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower if equipped. Next reinstall the anode rod (suburban) or drain plug (atwood) into the water heater. Go to the back side of the water heater and close the valve on the pipe that connects the cold (bottom line into water heater) and hot (upper line out of the water heater) and then open the bottom cold water line valve and, if equipped, the upper hot water valve. This will fill the water heater. Open the hot water valve at the kitchen faucet. When the water flow is steady the water heater is full and ready for use. If the unit is equipped with a water filer, after all is flushed out, turn the water off and remove the filter housing. Install a new filter and re-secure the housing and turn the water back on. If you are using the fresh water pump, it is possible that the winterizing valve for the pump was left open. If so, close that valve which will divert the pump back to drawing from the tank.
yes drain freshwater tank then remove intake of the water pump you will need a hose with a connector to connect to inlet of water pump then hook hose to antifreeze bottle then turn on water pump open faucets 1 at a time till you see antifreeze on each then pour some down the drains make sure to shut of inlet to heater and open bypass before turning on pump or you will fill hot water tank after all done return heater bypass to operation position