Yamaha V Star 1100 Classic - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Anonymous replace the voltage regulator and before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
2. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
3. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
4. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
5. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Star 650 stator regulator issues
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf
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2000 Yamaha V... | Answered on Nov 01, 2017


The timing chain most likely adjusts itself( I am not certain) however a loose chain will cause an engine rattle, but is not the cause of popping and dying.
try cleaning the fuel system, new spark plugs,new air cleaner

2002 Yamaha V... | Answered on Oct 22, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
9 Specifications Star 1100 Wiki Knowledge Base
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=546
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
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2003 Yamaha V... | Answered on Sep 24, 2017


Hi, Marvin the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Yamaha V... | Answered on Sep 12, 2017


Hi, Rex before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing or printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
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2001 Yamaha V... | Answered on Sep 09, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2002 Yamaha V... | Answered on Sep 08, 2017


Hi, Ronnie fuel valve long part of lever positions are as follows:
1. ON--- 6 o'clock position.
2. OFF--- 9 o'clock position.
3. RESERVE---12 o'clock position.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2003 Yamaha V... | Answered on Sep 03, 2017


Hi, Fred for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2006 Yamaha V... | Answered on Aug 18, 2017


Hey Peter... I am NOT wanting to downplay your mechanical skills... but if you can't remove the the headlight housing.. you really NEED to TAKE this to a QUALIFIED PROFESSIONAL..(it will be cheaper in the long run!!)

2005 Yamaha V... | Answered on Aug 16, 2017


Hi, Chris absolutely for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Yamaha V... | Answered on Aug 08, 2017


Hi, Tom for this scenario you will need your service, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Honda, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2005 YAMAHA STAR 1100 CARBURETOR DIAGRAM Google Search
http://www.mikunipower.com/catalog/mikunicarburetorcatalog2012.pdf
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2005 Yamaha V... | Answered on Aug 07, 2017


Hi, Denis engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed out they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for cracks.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must have for fine tuning and maximum performance.
Fine tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/18-engine-work/5238-engine-bogs-past-1-4-throttle.html
2001 Star Classic 1100 Bogging down when giving it gas
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2002 Yamaha V... | Answered on Jul 31, 2017


Hi, Lester before testing any electrical component in the Starter System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
A motorcycle starter relay is an electronic mechanical switch that has a small coil winding around a piece of metal that requires low amperage and thin wires to be activated. When you turn on your ignition switch power 12 volts is sent to the relay coil which in turn becomes a magnetic contact point that pulls a spring-loaded contact point to itself completing an electrical circuit that allows more amperage necessary to be accessed by the starter solenoid which in turn acts in the same way as the relay but on a larger scale with its stronger heavier contacts making available the necessary amperage to turn the starter motor. If your battery has low voltage it, in turn, makes the magnetic contact point weak in trying to pull its counterpart to make a connection. These relays are usually encased in a plastic housing that may or may not be sealed depending on the quality of the product. When activated they will produce a small amount of heat to their metal components which in turn can create the perfect environment for condensation to form depending on weather conditions and how careless you may be with a water hose or sprayer while washing your bike. After a period of time, several months to several years depending on the circumstances this condensation is the starter button for electrolysis and the slow build up of corrosion which ends by preventing the magnetic contacts in making a solid connection and alerts you to this situation with the customary greeting "CLICK or BUZZ". The relay is inexpensive and needs to be replaced however in a pinch they can be forcibly opened cleaned and resealed with silicone. In a nutshell, motorcycle starter relays take in low amperage and send out higher amperage when activated and for curious minds, the voltage remains constant at whatever your battery reads at the time.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2000 Yamaha V... | Answered on Jul 10, 2017


Hi, Johnathon7108 and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Faulty main circuit breaker and or connections.
4. Faulty ignition coil and or connections.
5. Faulty spark plug, oil or gas fouled, wrong heat range or service type, wrong gap, loose in the cylinder head, broken electrode or insulator.
6. Faulty spark plug cables, leaking or broken, internal damage check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition module, switch, CKP, MAP, CMP, sensor and or any connector in the ignition circuit could have corroded, loose, or broken pins/sockets
8. Burnt exhaust valve or air leak in the exhaust system.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/849-backfire-problems.html
totalmotorcycle com
Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual
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2001 Yamaha V... | Answered on Jun 15, 2017


Hi, Nelson if you have a dash or instrument light that is out and you have confirmed that the bulb is good then you need to do some quick diagnostics all you need is a test light and a wiring diagram usually found in the back of your service or owners manual.
1. Make sure your battery is fully charged with "CLEAN" and "TIGHT" connections and the instrument light fuse is not blown.
2. Inspect the bulb socket for corrosion and clean as necessary, a spray can of electrical contact cleaner and compressed air works the best.
3. Confirm your test light is working properly by connecting one end to the battery negative post and touching battery positive post with the sharp probe, the test light should illuminate.
4. With the ignition turned on to confirm you have power to the bulb socket by connecting your test light to battery negative or ground and probe the center contact, the test light should illuminate if not you need to check the integrity of the switch or sending unit the light represents, if that is ok then you have a short in the wiring between the component and the light bulb, if all is ok proceed to the next step.
5. Confirm you have a good ground to the light bulb socket by connecting the test light to battery positive and probe any metal part of the socket housing, the test light should illuminate, if not you need to find the short and repair as necessary.
6. Inspect the integrity of the spring loaded positive contact insulation tab by pushing against it with your test light to see if it goes down and springs back fully to it's operating position again contact cleaner and compressed air works best to restore proper function.
7. If your bike has a lot of mileage the vibration can cause bulbs to become loose in the socket by wearing down the soldered contact thus loosing spring pressure from the tab and eventually stop making contact this can be fixed by replacing the bulb or putting a drop of solder on the worn out end to ensure contact.
8. If all of your dash lights are out but are good then you most likely have a faulty connection to the dash wiring harness, inspect the connector for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/50018-brake-lights-not-working.html
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2002 Yamaha V... | Answered on May 01, 2017


Hi, Ronald and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector
10. Multi carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links blue below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
high idle when engine is hot
http://www.vulcandrifterriders.com/forum/index.php?topic=33252.0
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YAMAHA XVS1100 Owner Manual

2003 Yamaha V... | Answered on Apr 29, 2017


Hi, Ronald and the usual suspects are:
1. Throttle cables improperly adjusted, pinched or need lubrication.
2. Idle adjusting screw needs to be backed off.
4. Air fuel mixture adjusted too lean start with 2 full turns.
5. Intake system air leak.
6. Fast idle choke ramp is not releasing.
7. Broken throttle return spring.
8. Damaged diaphragm or slide.
9. Faulty MAP, TPS, ATS, O2, sensors or wiring/connector
10. Multi carburetors not in sync.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links blue below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/1194-rpm-slow-return-idle.html
star 1100 high idle untill complete stop
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
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YAMAHA XVS1100A Owner Manual

2003 Yamaha V... | Answered on Apr 23, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
found this helpful answer from motorcycle mechanic on JustAnswer com
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http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
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YAMAHA XVS1100A Owner Manual

2001 Yamaha V... | Answered on Apr 23, 2017


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 Yamaha V... | Answered on Apr 23, 2017

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