Yamaha Motorcycles - Popular Questions, Answers, Tips & Manuals


Hi, Pablo for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Remove+the+front+end+2002+Yamaha+XVS+650+Dragstar&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwif95310LPiAhWh1VkKHSVGDbgQsAR6BAgHEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e-RNbopyWas
Yamaha XVS650 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/612318/Yamaha-Drag-Star-Xvs650.html

2002 Yamaha XVS... | 202 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Tim for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $7 you can purchase another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forum/maintenance/106-timing-is-everything-how-to-do-it-on-an-rt1
How to adjust and restore points on your vintage motorcycle
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Yamaha-MX250-MX360-SC500-factory-repair-manuals-on-CD-/112395080673 $7
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha

Yamaha MX 450... | 245 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Brendan for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zObBOP_lZKU
how to set time Yamaha R1 motorcycle
Yamaha XC125 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha Cygnus XC125 Owner Manual

2010 Yamaha... | 150 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, Forra for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/49-v-star/80753-crankcase-covers-leaking.html
https://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/yamaha-v-star-650-common-oil-leak-fix
https://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/V-StarShopManual99-07.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
YAMAHA XVS1100 Owner Manual

2007 Yamaha V... | 190 views | 1 helpful votes


It sounds like the carb jetting is plugged up so that carbs should be removed and cleaned! When you first start the bike keep it idling by having someone hold it on and at the same time light touch the front and rear exhaust pipes. The carb that is working will have a hot pipe and the one not working will be cooler or cold.

Yamaha... | 39 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Kayhan for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.carlocksandkeys.com/1981-2007-yamaha-virago-motorcycle-keys
Motorcycle lost key solution
Yamaha XV 535 DX Virago Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://archive.org/details/printermanual-yamaha-virago-xv535-owners-manual

1995 Yamaha XV... | 31 views | 0 helpful votes


First off, I put a brick under the kickstand to get my bike near level...then i gathered the tools needed. 5mm Alan Head (Hex) Bit, 8mm wrench, phillips head screwdriver, and a vacuum pump (not necessary but very helpful if you're doing it solo.

Attachment 51703

Next step is to remove the left rear cylinder side cover. three 5mm bolts hold this in place.


Unscrew and remove the resevoir cap and diaphram carefully. Cover your paint with a towel (I was probably a little overdue for a fluid bleed...)
Suck out the old fluid from the resevoir using the pump (or a turkey baster) and refill with new DOT 4 brake Fluid (or DOT 3 or DOT 5.1)
Attach a plastic tube to the clutch bleeder valve, set up your vacuum pump, and loosen the valve using an 8mm wrench.
Now, get to pumping...watching the level in the resevoir as to not let it suck any air. When the fluid coming out of the valve is clear, the system is flushed.
(NOTE: if you are doing this by hand, (1) loosen the bleeder valve, (2) squeeze and hold the clutch lever, (3) tighten the valve, (4) release the lever...then repeat 1 through 4 about 50 more times being sure to watch the fluid level in the resevoir)
Once you are done, close the valve to 4.3 ft/lbs and refill the resevoir. Then replace the diaphram and resevoir cap.
Put the rubber cover on the bleeder valve and re-install the left rear cylinder cover. Check the fluid is at the appropriate level...

Yamaha... | 26 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Richard and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Inlet system air leak.
3. Damaged or restricted fuel tank venting system.
4. Dirty or damaged air cleaner element.
5. The accelerator pump is inoperative.
6. Vacuum piston assembly malfunction.
7. The choke valve is not seated or leaking.
8. Restricted fuel supply tract.
9. Plugged bowl vent.
10. Loose or plugged fuel and air jets or passages.
11. Improper float level.
12. Worn or damaged needle or needle jet.
13. Loose or plugged main jets or passages.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/3195bp/why_did_i_lose_power_with_my_new_exhaust
https://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detail/revolution-pro-motorcycle-speed-rev-limiter-cdi-box/yamaha/mt-125
https://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detail/dyno-boost-motorcycle-performance-chip/yamaha/mt-125
Yamaha YZF R125 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1152232/Yamaha-Mt-125.html

Yamaha... | 360 views | 2 helpful votes


Hi, Joe for this scenario you will need your service manual, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Wiring+diagram+Yamaha+50QT&tbm=isch&source=univ&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi0y8ee97jiAhXqs1kKHdULA34QsAR6BAgIEAE&biw=1440&bih=757
Yamaha Motorcycle Wiring Diagrams
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1250270/Yamaha-Qt50.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1270273/Yamaha-Qt50.html

Yamaha... | 35 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Jonathan before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/343026-07-r6-cranks-but-wont-turn-over.html
https://www.reddit.com/r/motorcycles/comments/dp1z7/help_r6_wont_start_just_clicks_whats_wrong
Yamaha YZF R6 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha YZF R6 Owner Manual

2008 Yamaha... | 23 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Mark and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/22496-xv535-misfiring
virago 535 loss of power
Yamaha XV 535 DX Virago Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki

1995 Yamaha XV... | 302 views | 1 helpful votes


Its a carb issue but more than likely the internal passages are gummed up. Its probably because you have been using ethanol blended gas. The alcohol wreaks havoc with small engine carbs they were never designed to run this type of fuel. You can try to rebuild it but I have found it only works about 10% of the time. Save yourself a bunch of headaches and purchase a new one. Try to buy non-ethanol fuel or at add a fuel system cleaner everytime to fill up. The cleaner will extend the life but ultimately the new one will plug up.

Yamaha... | 26 views | 1 helpful votes


Hi, John I would start with replacing the ignition switch and before testing any electrical component in the Starting Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Engine Run Switch is "FAULTY" or corroded.
4. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
5. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
6. FOB battery low or dead.
7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Faulty starter button.
9. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
10. Security alarm needs a reset.
11. Starter relay, solenoid, starter motor or circuit wiring faulty.
12. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
13. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
14. Faulty ignition relay.
15. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
16. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.roadstarclinic.com/forum/technical-forum/electrical-electronics/4240-electrical-problems-bike-won%E2%80%99t-start
What To Do If Your Motorcycle Doesn Start
http://www.werder.ee/Manual/XV1600.pdf
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha ROAD STAR XV16A Owner Manual

2001 Yamaha XV... | 28 views | 0 helpful votes


Hi, Frustrated one, engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/786126-pw-80-help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hLfN3jiTl1I
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/581567/Yamaha-Pw80-N.html
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
YAMAHA PW80 Owner Manual

2011 Yamaha PW80 | 237 views | 1 helpful votes


Easy and cheap way to increase your speed without messing with the motor,gas,air or spark is to change the sprockets and chain set up on your final drive. Go to gearingcommander.com for all the specs and information on how it will effect your engine and what is best for your year model bike. Ride safe and ride free

Yamaha... | 40 views | 0 helpful votes

Not finding what you are looking for?
Yamaha Logo

30,145 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Popular Products

Top Yamaha Experts

vince

Level 3 Expert

1234 Answers

Steve Sweetleaf
Steve Sweetleaf

Level 3 Expert

1176 Answers

D. E. Hev

Level 3 Expert

1187 Answers

Are you a Yamaha Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...