Hi, Anonymous you need to make sure you have no intake leaks by spraying some Brake Kleen, Contact Cleaner, Starting Fluid etc. around the intake manifold and seals, if the RPM's go up or down significantly then you have a leak that needs to be fixed before you can continue with the carburetor adjustment.
The engine should be at operating temperature with the choke off to set the idle between 950-1050 rpm. Turn the idle skrew clockwise to increase the idle speed and counterclockwise to decrease the idle speed. If you have access to your air-fuel mixture skrew you may turn it as well, if not there is a video below on how to gain access, make sure you start with clean or new spark plugs. Gently turn the air-fuel mixture skrew clockwise until it starts to bottom out "STOP" do not over tighten as it will damage the taper on the end, now back the skrew out 1-1/2 full turns to establish a starting point start the engine and check the idle rpm's and turn the idle skrew accordingly for 950-1050 rpm if necessary, turn the air-fuel mixture skrew 1/4 turn at a time and let the engine settle for about 10 seconds, turn the skrew clockwise for a leaner mixture and counterclockwise for a richer mixture, you are seeking the highest rpm your air-fuel mixture skrew can acquire without going past 3 full turns from the bottom then resetting the idle skrew back down to 950-1050 rpm If you can not detect any rpm change and can not stall the engine by turning the air-fuel mixture skrew all the way in then your pilot/low-speed jet is too big and needs to be replaced with the next size smaller. Final adjustment should be made with a clean air filter mounted to the carburetor.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. Setting idle and fuel screw Kawasaki Forums How to adjust idle screw on four stroke carb Kawasaki KLX110 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki KLX140 Owner Manual
Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee around $10 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download for viewing or printing. To download your manual please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day Genuine Kawasaki 1986 1988 Gpz1000rx Service Manual S1254 NC eBay $28 OEM Parts for Kawasaki http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki Kawasaki GPZ1000RX Kawasaki GPZ1000RX
Hi, James the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day Kawasaki KL250 Super Sherpa Motorcycle Complete Workshop Service Repair... $15 OEM Parts for Kawasaki Kawasaki Super Sherpa Owner Manual Kawasaki KL250 Super Sherpa Kawasaki Super Sherpa
Hi, Tim and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at the ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty pulse coil.
8. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
9. Faulty ignition switch.
10. Faulty run/off switch
11. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
12. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at email@example.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day. How to diagnose no spark situation on motorcycle Harley Davidson Dyna Glide Twin Cam 88 Service Manual http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals Instant Repair Help over the Phone To speak to me personally for a mere $4
Hi, Anonymous you may need a new starter clutch and I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Rear Chains---RATTLE
5. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
8. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
11. Head Gasket---HISS
12. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
15. Rear Chains---RATTLE
16. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
18. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
19. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
20. Solid Lifters---TICK
22. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
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Hi, Shereenkhouz if you're having trouble with your hydraulic clutch releasing-that is, when you try to shift with the clutch all the way in, it feels like the bike still "wants" to be in gear-there's a good chance you may have air in the system. Air trapped within the system defeats the mechanical advantage of hydraulic pressure-the air can be compressed much more than the fluid, so when you pull in the lever, the clutch itself is not fully disengaging.
That's the bad news. The good news is that this is a problem that may often be fixed simply by adding fluid and bleeding the system, and you're about to learn how to do just that.
1. Check the level of the fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. Your owner's manual will show you how and what DOT type fluid to use. Add as much fluid as necessary to reach the "full" level. Throughout the process, either you or your assistant must remember to check the fluid level regularly during this process. If the reservoir reaches empty, the system will begin taking more air in, adding to the problem you're already trying to solve.
2. While the bleeder screw is still tight at the clutch slave cylinder, place a pan underneath the bleeder screw fitting. Have your assistant pump the clutch lever gently several times, and then depress the lever all the way to the handlebar grip and hold it (it is very important to know that releasing the lever early could result in air being sucked into the system via the bleeder valve).
3. With a box wrench, slowly loosen the bleeder screw about one-half turn. A mixture of fluid and air should come out of the valve. As the flow from the screw fitting slows, re-tighten the bleeder screw until it is snug and completely closed, but easily loosened again. At this point, your assistant can allow the clutch lever to return to the extended position. Be sure your assistant does not allow the lever to return before you have re-tightened the screw, as doing so can result in more air being drawn into the system.
Repeat steps 1 to 3 several times, until no air, only fluid, comes out of the valve (it should not sputter or hiss at all). At this point, give the bleeder screw an extra quarter-turn to ensure it won't come loose. You don't want to over-tighten and strip either the screw or the fitting, but if the bleeder screw comes loose, you will quickly lose hydraulic fluid while riding.
Again, make sure the reservoir contains enough fluid after each round of bleeding, and again fill it to the "full" level when the process is complete.
After you're done, test the clutch out in a driveway or parking lot before taking it to the road. If you have the time after you've tested the clutch leave it parked for an hour or so with a piece of cardboard underneath the bleeder valve; this way, you can see if anything is leaking. A couple of drops is most likely nothing to worry about, as there will be residue remaining from the bleeding process, but if you find any puddles whatsoever, make sure to check that you've completely re-tightened the bleed valve.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/mechanics-corner/132963-1500-mean-streak-clutch-will-not-disengage-fully.html How to bleed hydraulic clutch on motorcycle in an extreme case of air... How to bleed hydraulic clutch on motorcycle VULCAN 1500 as example Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual OEM Parts for Kawasaki 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Nomad Fi Owner Manual