Motorcycles - Page 8 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Anonymous the vast majority of service, parts fiche, and owners manuals on the internet are "FREE" to download and all service manuals contain wiring diagrams in the back pages. The rest usually charge a modest fee of $15 and there is a handful of obscure, rare, obsolete, and very old models that are no longer or never were available and some were never printed in English. The Indian and Philippine markets are usually in E-book format only, for these rare occasions I shall look on eBay and find the cheapest one available. Most of the manuals will cover your exact make, model, and year otherwise one will be provided that comes as close as possible to your bike and will have most of the same info that an exact manual would have. If there is no $ sign after the manual link it is free to download.
To download your manual for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals
Suzuki GSX1300R Owner Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
Suzuki GSX 1300R Hayabusa
Suzuki Hayabusa

2008 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Hi, Sergey it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence such as adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, stolen and cut ignition wires, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM such as parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or something very minor, like your speedometer sensor, is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet in places where it doesn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2010 Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Hi, Mariel for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Zhujiang, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one. Unfortunately, no Zhujiang manual is available but the Honda Unicorn is a pretty close match.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Motorcycles | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Hi, Mariana for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://advrider.com/f/threads/help-uly-clock-trip-meter-resets-when-engine-is-turned-off.729013
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Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja ZX 6R Owner Manual

2005 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Hi, Leon for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2007 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa when to replace the rear brake pads Google...
Hayabusa Rear Brake Pad Replacement Shortcuts and Tips
Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

2007 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
AG200 Central everything about the Yamaha AG200 motorcycle
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2007 Yamaha AG... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


You have a positive wire grounded somewhere. Look for wires that rub against the frame, or look for two or more wires that are touching each other. More than likely somewhere the rubber/plastic sheathing has failed and wires are touching. It is also possible that the ignition switch itself has failed. You can find the problem by going over the harness carefully.

2004 kawasaki KX... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


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Suzuki... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


10W40W Use motorcycle rated oil, it contains friction modifiers for the wet clutch..

Honda... | Answered on Oct 11, 2018


Hi, Anonymous engine "BOG" is mainly caused by a rich air and lean fuel condition but it can also be caused by a lean air and rich fuel condition this situation rarely occurs and is only caused by the misinformed weekend warrior that owns a toolbox. If the bike has been sitting for months or years you will have to completely disassemble the carburetor and submerge the parts (except rubber parts) in "Carburetor Dip" It usually comes in a gallon bucket with a wire mesh basket that can be purchased at any automotive store. If it is not the above scenario then the following explanation will apply.
The more you open your throttle the more vacuum you are creating in your carburetor venturi and your intake manifold. When you are operating at higher RPM any unmetered air that leaks into your system can become more obvious.
Unmetered air is air that is getting into your system after the fuel has been delivered. If you have unmetered air getting into your system between the butterfly/slide of the carburetor and the cylinder head this will create a lean condition.
All of the rubber components of the fuel system like vacuum hoses and intake manifold that you mount the carburetor to are made of rubber. If none of these components have been changed they are more than likely highly degraded and probably cracked in places to allow unwanted-unmetered-contaminated air into the combustion chamber. Check all of your vacuum lines and vacuum plugs for carburetor synchronization. The vacuum plugs are in the head just after the rubber intake manifolds. The petcock has a vacuum line as well as part of the emission system.
1. Check the intake manifold for fissures.
2. Ensure the bands used to tighten the manifolds down on the intake are secure and have not bound up the manifold.
3. Make sure air box fittings are not warped and fit completely over the carburetor.
4. For 2 strokes make sure the power valve is adjusted properly.
Your airbox is metering air and is the first step in a process of consuming air and fuel. The system requires the resistance of the air filter in order to get the proper vacuum to "SUCK" the fuel out of the float bowl and create the proper venturi effect.
Improper mounting and sealing of the airbox will create a small lean effect. This might seem like no big deal but you are inviting dust and debris in your engine that is doing slow damage by not having proper fitment. Fix it so you know it's not contributing to your issue. Pick the low-hanging fruit first.
Do not go and start adjusting anything at this point. It ran fine before. There is something wrong with the assembly or a component. Do not adjust your floats. Get it back to where it was. The moment you start tweaking everything is the moment you lose OEM settings which are a must-have for fine-tuning and maximum performance.
Fine-tuning your carburetor and multi carb syncing come at the very end following the proper procedure established by the Carburetor Gods.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

2006 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Dash if your headlight is not working, intermittent, only one beam works at a time, keeps burning out, blinking, dim or surges from bright to dim to bright the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your headlight bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chafed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/low beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty headlight relay.
9. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
10. Weak charging alternator/generator/lighting coil
11. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Why won my headlights turn on
Headlights Not Working Try These Fixes
https://thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/937087-my-headlight-went-out-and-its-not-the-bulb-or-the-headlight-switch
Things to check if headlight doesn work motorcycles
Motorcycle Headlight Issue My Fix

Motorcycles | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Munchzilla for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

2006 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e

2007 Derbi... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Eric and the usual suspects are:
1. Shifter pawl improperly adjusted.
2. Shifter drum improperly adjusted or damaged.
3. Shifter engaging parts/dogs badly worn or rounded.
4. Shifter forks bent.
5. Damaged gears.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
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http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

2006 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, David and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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What to do When Your Motorcycle Won Start
Suzuki GSX1300R Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-suzuki
http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

2007 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Jim for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Suzuki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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http://mybikemanuals.com/suzuki/suzuki-gsx-owners-manuals

2008 Suzuki GSX... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Fuel probly goin to oneside..happens on lowtanks. Carb cud hav issues from age evn tho its not ridden much. Buy a clymer manual

2009 Yamaha... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Anthony and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Open-short-ground in the wiring between the alternator to the ignition module/CDI box to the ignition coil.
5. Faulty pins or sockets in the plug connectors.
6. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
7. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module/CDI box.
8. Faulty pulse coil.
9. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
10. Faulty ignition switch.
11. Faulty run/off switch
12. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
13. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2009 kawasaki... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018


Hi, Luke and the usual suspects are:
1. Shifter pawl improperly adjusted.
2. Shifter drum improperly adjusted or damaged.
3. Shifter engaging parts/dogs badly worn or rounded.
4. Shifter forks bent.
5. Damaged gears.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1998 Honda CBR... | Answered on Oct 10, 2018

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