Motorcycles - Page 4 - Recent Questions, Troubleshooting & Support


Hi, Thomas before testing any electrical component in the Reverse Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries otherwise the usual suspects are:
1. The reverse electric motor safety switch has tripped and needs to be "PROPERLY" reset.
2. Improper button engagement procedure
3. Reverse button stuck in the depressed position.
4. The run-off switch is in the off position.
5. Bike not in neutral.
6. Faulty relay, reverse actuator, solenoid, regulator module,
7. Wire connectors in the reverse system faulty due to corroded, bent, broken, loose, retracted or missing wire pins and sockets.
8. Reverse cables not properly adjusted.
9. Faulty reverse lever components.
10. Reverse lever not in the on position.
11. The reverse motor has failed and needs an overhaul.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Resetting reverse on trike
2017 Harley Touring Service Manual pdf
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2011 Harley... | Answered 2 days ago


The wheel is most likely already seized, check that.

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Is there still tension on the lever? A loose lever could be a broken cable. Check all the links and levers starting at the handlebars. Look for loose connections or broken parts.
Put the bike in neutral and try rolling it. This will tell you if it's a brake issue.
If the cables and levers are OK and the brakes aren't locking on the issue is probably the clutch not releasing inside the gearbox.

Motorcycles | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Mandy_gordon for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki EN 500... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1988 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1990 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Carl it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light or CEL stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turnover or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity or adventures, laying the bike down or crashes, rainstorms or bike washings just before CEL light issues started can be significant hints or aids into tracking down the gremlin, also for 2003 and older models carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes and reduce the risk of being stranded or towed also keep in mind that your CEL comes to life if anything, and I do mean anything isn't 100% with the ECM like parameter spikes. This means that you could be staring at a major repair, or your speedometer sensor is contaminated and needs to be cleaned.
And the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery check the terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary, you should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Faulty charging system.
3. Faulty system sensor some models have up to 40 sensors
4. Faulty safety switches: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections.
5. The engine got wet where it didn't like to get wet.
6. Faulty ignition circuit spark plugs, coils, cables etc.
7. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc. Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends.
Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. Run speedometer diagnostics and check for generated fault codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://hdbitchin.com/index.php?topic=1426.0
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2000 Harley... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Jacque and the usual suspects are:
1. Dirty air filter.
2. Fuel mixture too rich or the choke has been left on too long.
3. Faulty spark plug.
4. Incorrect spark plug heat range for the engine type or service.
5. Piston rings badly worn or broken.
6. Valve guides are badly worn and/or seals worn, crushed or have come off the valve guide and are pumping oil through it.
7. Spark plug cable weak or leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
8. Faulty ignition coil.
9. Low RPM nonaggressive riding style.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.starbikeforums.com/forums/18-engine-work/56489-keep-fouling-plugs.html
Cycles Technical Forums
Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual
https://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-yamaha
Yamaha star 1100 Owner Manual

2002 Yamaha V... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Bryan for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Yamaha star 1100 Owner Manual

1999 Yamaha V... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1999 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, John the answer to this question is way above my pay grade for this situation, I would call or visit my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1975 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Mdiggles775 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2005 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Fernon and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel cap or fuel tank is not venting properly.
2. Fuel filter clogged.
3. Fuel line pinched or kinked.
4. Vacuum line from the petcock to intake manifold cracked.
5. Float needle and seat sticking.
6. Float level too low.
7. Carburetor bowl vent line clogged/blocked/pinched.
8. Idle adjusting screw set too low.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw set too lean.
10. Idle port, transfer ports, slow air jet clogged.
11. Slow fuel jet clogged.
12. Faulty fuel pump.
13. Faulty auto choke or wiring connection.
For more information about your issue and valuable "Free" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Choke Plug unnecessary
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2005 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Ratbiker47 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the choke.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. Fuel injectors stuck open.
13. Quick disconnect check ball stuck.
14. Compression below 75 PSI.
15. A stuck-bent-burnt valve.
16. Improper valve clearance (too tight)
17. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
18. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
19. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
20. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections are loose or connected to the wrong cylinders.
21. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
22. Faulty neutral, clutch, kickstand safety switch.
23. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
24. Faulty or corroded run/stop switch.
25. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
26. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-streetbikes-sportbikes/153294-kawasaki-gpz-750-wont-start.html
What to do When Your Motorcycle Won Start
Kawasaki GPZ750 1982 1985 Factory Service Repair Manual PDF Download... $15
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kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Decept33 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Star1_216 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago


Hi, Bobo56au for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1991 kawasaki... | Answered 2 days ago

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