How to remove chain from blade no bolts unde cap

Table of Contents Removal Installation Print Options Print Text Only Print Text and images Print Camshaft, Replace Removal 1. Bring lock carrier into service position as follows: a. Remove radiator grille. b. Remove upper bolts (2), Fig. 1. c. Remove quick release screw (6) from below, Fig. 1. d. Remove bolts (5 and 4) pointing upward in area of wheel housing liner, Fig. 1. e. With aid from an assistant, pull cover parallel out of guides. f. Disconnect harness connectors of installed electrical components and hoses. g. Remove noise insulation. h. Remove intake air duct between lock carrier (1) and air cleaner housing at lock carrier, Fig. 2. i. Remove bolt (5) on bumper carrier (4) and install guide rods tool No. 3411, or equivalent, (6) on righthand and lefthand longitudinal member, Fig. 2. j. Remove bolts (2 and 3), Fig. 2. k. Lock carrier (1) can be pulled approximately .39 inch toward front onto guide rods tool No. 3411, (2), Fig. 3. 2. Remove upper toothed belt guard. 3. Bring camshaft gear to marking for TDC cylinder 1 by turning crankshaft. Marking on camshaft gear must be flush with marking on cylinder head cover, Fig. 4. 4. Loosen tensioner and remove toothed belt from camshaft sprocket. 5. Turn crankshaft back slightly. 6. Remove camshaft sprocket. To loosen bolt, counter hold camshaft gear using tool No. 3036, or equivalent. 7. Remove hall sensor housing. 8. Remove washer and cover for hall sensor. 9. Clean drive chain and camshaft chain sprockets across from both arrows on bearing caps and mark installed position with a color marking. Do not mark chain using a center punch or similar means. Distance between both arrows or colored markings consists of 16 rollers of drive chain, Fig. 5. 10. Secure camshaft adjuster or chain tensioner using bracket for chain adjustment tool No. 3366, or equivalent. If chain tensioner retainer is fastened too tightly, chain tensioner or camshaft adjuster can be damaged, Fig. 6. 11. First remove bearing caps 3 and 5 from intake and exhaust camshafts, Fig. 7. 12. Remove double bearing cap. 13. Remove both bearing caps from chain gears on intake and exhaust camshafts. 14. Remove securing bolts of camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner. 15. Alternating in diagonal sequence, loosen bearing caps 2 and 4 of intake and exhaust camshafts and remove. 16. Remove intake and exhaust camshaft, chain tensioner or camshaft adjuster and chain tensioner retainer tool No. 3366, or equivalent. Installation When installing the camshafts, cam lobes for cylinder 1 must point upward. When installing bearing caps, verify marking on cap is readable from intake side of cylinder head. 1. When reusing old drive chain, mount drive chain according to color markings onto both camshafts. When using a new drive chain, distance between notches (A) and (B) must be 16 rollers on chain, Fig. 8. Illustration shows where first and sixteenth drive chain rollers must be installed on chain gears. 2. Notch (A) is slightly offset inward toward chain roller (1), Fig. 8. 3. Replace rubber/metal seal for camshaft adjuster or chain tensioner and coat hatched surface with thin coat of sealant D 454 300 A2, or equivalent, Fig. 9. 4. Insert camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner between drive chain. 5. Oil running surfaces of both camshafts. 6. Insert camshafts with drive chain and camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner into cylinder head. 7. Tighten camshaft adjuster/chain tensioner to specification, pay attention to bushing. 8. Alternating in diagonal sequence, tighten bearing caps 2 and 4 of intake and exhaust camshafts and tighten to specification, pay attention to bushing, Fig. 7. 9. Install both bearing caps on gears on intake and exhaust camshafts. Inspect camshaft for proper adjustment (arrows) and tighten bearing cap to specification, pay attention to alignment bushing, Fig. 10. 10. Remove chain tensioner/camshaft adjuster tool No. 3366, or equivalent. 11. Coat hatched surfaces of double bearing cap lightly using sealant D 454 300 A2, or equivalent, install and tighten to specification, pay attention to bushing, Fig. 11. 12. Install remaining bearing caps and tighten to specification, pay attention to alignment bushing. 13. Install camshaft gear, thin rib toward outside (arrows) and TDC marking visible and tighten screw to specification, use retainer tool No. 3036, or equivalent, Fig. 12. 14. Inspect setting of camshafts to each other. 15. After installing camshafts, engine may not be started for approximately 30 minutes. Hydraulic adjusting elements must seat themselves, otherwise valves will seat themselves on pistons. 16. Pistons must not be positioned at TDC. Ensure that crankshaft is still positioned before cylinder 1 TDC. 17. Align marking on camshaft sprocket with marking on cylinder head cover. 18. Place toothed belt onto crankshaft sprocket, observe direction of rotation. 19. Install lower toothed belt guard. 20. Install vibration damper/belt pulley with new bolts. Tighten to specification. 21. Turn crankshaft to set cylinder 1 at TDC. 22. Place toothed belt on in this order coolant pump, tensioning roller and camshaft gear. 23. Tension toothed belt as follows: a. If toothed belt tensioner is completely driven out, it must be pressed back by tensioner roller when installed. This procedure can last approximately five minutes. Pressing together with too much force can damage tensioner roller. b. Turn eccentric pulley counterclockwise using tensioning device tool No. 3387, or equivalent, tab (A) of eccentric pulley must not be bent, until tensioning device locking tool No. T10008, or equivalent, can be pulled free of stress, Fig. 13. c. Rotate eccentric pulley clockwise direction of (arrow) until a drill bit (2) with dimension (a) .31 inch, can be pulled through between tensioning lever and housing of tensioning device, Fig. 14. 24. Turn over crankshaft twice and inspect if markings on camshaft and crankshaft still align with their reference points. 25. Inspect dimension (a) .24-.39 inch between tensioning lever and housing of tensioning device using a drill bit (2), Fig. 14. 26. If dimension (a) is not obtained, release tension of toothed belt and tension it again. 27. Install upper and center toothed belt guards. 28. Install tensioner for serpentine belt. Tighten to specification. 29. Install serpentine belt. When installing serpentine belt, ensure that belt is seated correctly in belt pulleys. 30. Place torque wrench tool No. V.A.G 1331, or equivalent, in seven o'clock position and tighten A/C compressor belt tensioner to specification. Hold torque wrench securely and tighten bolts (A) to specification, Fig. 15. 31. Install lock carrier. 32. Install front bumper. 33. Tighten fasteners to specification. 34. Fill cooling system with coolant.

• Fig. 1 Front bumper removal
• Fig. 2 Lock carrier disconnection
• Fig. 3 Lock carrier service position
• Fig. 4 Camshaft sprocket alignment
• Fig. 5 Camshaft drive chain marking location
• Fig. 6 Camshaft drive chain tensioner securing location
• Fig. 7 Camshaft bearing cap removal
• Fig. 8 Camshaft installation
• Fig. 9 Camshaft chain tensioner seal installation
• Fig. 10 Camshaft installation mark alignment
• Fig. 11 Double bearing cap installation
• Fig. 12 Camshaft gear installation
• Fig. 13 Toothed belt tensioning device release
• Fig. 14 Toothed belt tensioning device
• Fig. 15 Air conditioning compressor belt installation

If you want a picture of one of the fig, let me know which one, there are several pictures. All I'm doing is copying out of my database.

Remove the cover, loosen the bolts to allow the bar to slide toward the sprocket. Lift chain off the sprocket and pull out from the notch in the bar. Be sure to turn the chain the same direction, otherwise you will be cutting with the back side of the blades. Slide the new chain blade onto the sprocket then fit into the bar. Once that is accomplished pull the bar firmly outward watching to see that the blade stays inside the slot of the bar. While keeping pressure on the chain and bar, tighten the retaining bolts and replace cover

Remove the cover. Loosen the two bolts that hold the chainsaw bar. Slide the bar back (it has a long slot for adjustment) until the blade can be lifted out of the track and sprocket. To replace the blade slip it onto the sprocket and the bar. You must hold the bar level while replacing the blade. Be sure the blade fits into the track around the bar. Once in place double check the placement on the sprocket and pull the bar outward until all the slack is removed from the chain blade. Holding firmly, (it would help to have someone assisting) keep the pressure on the blade and bar while replacing the bolt nuts. Then replace the hood cover. Smile.

Srew under blade and chaine. Make sure the tightner is align with is slot. Then secure cap with the two bolt lightly fist. Then srew the flat srew until chain is tight. Just enought that you can move the chain by hand. Then tighten the bolt (Nice snug fit) Please do not use impact.

A quick and easy check that can be done any where. Loosen the blade bolts, suspend the saw by the blade, tighten the blade bolts while in suspension. This will put the right mount of tension on the chain.

all chain saws have a sprocket that the chain runs on this sprocket is what make the chain rotate on the bar. the bar is the long part that sticks out in front of the motor. you must remove the side cover of the saw to access the sprocket region of the saw. be sure the saw is unplugged and then remove side cover the bar is usually held in place by a couple of bolts. on gas saws these two bolts also hold the side cover in place and must be removed to replace the bar and chain. once you have removed the side cover look for bolts holding the bar in place. if you only want to change the chain then you may be able to only loosen the bolts or screws holding the bar in place.there should be a screw to adjust the bar forwards and backwards. this screw put tension on the chain so when you put a new chain on turning the screw will proberly tension the chain /do not overtighten the chain.
also be sure you put the new chain and blade on the same as the old one that comes off trying to cut with a chain that is on backward does not work. last note if you are replacing the blade because the old one is dull take the saw to a saw shop they can sharpen the exsisting chain and save you money.

hi the tensioner itself is bolted to the rear of the cylinder with 2 bolts, simply remove the bolts and remove the tensioner, it is unlikely this has failed however when undoing the bolts if the tensioner is working correctly you will start to feel pressure as the tensioner pushes against the tensioner blade, if this is not the case it is likely the chain itself needs replacing, at which time the tensioner blade and guide should be changed, more difficult than changing the tensioner, warning it is most important that you remove the ignition key, disconnect battery and under no circumstances turn the engine while the tensioner is removed

Discoverd this indepth expalaination of process steps involved in the installation of the timing chain from an ASE certified technician. I hope this helps. See the repair manual on the link below.<br /> <br /> Link: <a href="http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2002-jaguar-xj8--gearbox-default-appear-on-dashboard/2000-jaguar-xj8-timing-chain-replacement-vt218070.html">http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2002-jaguar-xj8--gearbox-default-appear-on-dashboard/2000-jaguar-xj8-timing-chain-replacement-vt218070.html</a><br /> <table id="table14" style="BORDER-RIGHT: #000000 1px dashed; BORDER-TOP: #000000 1px dashed; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 1px dashed; BORDER-BOTTOM: #000000 1px dashed" bordercolordark="#000000" width="100%" bordercolorlight="#000000" border="0"> <tbody> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="700"></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="700"><span class="name" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="3">By <a name="755408"></a><b roundtrip="0" lastvisited="0">Dave H</b>,<b> </b></span><span class="postdetails" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="0">Certified ASE Technician</span></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="100%" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="6"></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 1px" width="700"></td></tr> <tr> <td style="BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 1px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 1px; BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 1px"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td colspan="2"> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">PRIMARY TIMING CHAINS (NON-SUPERCHARGED) <br />NOTE:The 4.0L V8 has no engine timing alignment marks on the crankshaft or camshafts. Engine timing is achieved by installing the Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531) and Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530). With the crankshaft setting peg in position, ensure the timing flat on each camshaft is in the uppermost position before installing camshaft locking tool. Variable camshaft timing unit may also be referred to as Variable Valve Timing (VVT) unit. <br /><br />NOTE:Special Tools Required: Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531), Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530), Chain Tensioning Tool (303-532), Primary Chain Wedge (303-533) and Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Unit Setting Tool (303-654). See Fig. 232-Fig. 236 . <br /><br />NOTE:"A" bank refers to the right/passenger side of the vehicle and "B" bank refers to left/driver side of the vehicle. <br /><br />NOTE:Each door glass automatically drops 12 mm when the door is opened or when the convertible top is raised or lowered. It is important that windows are lowered before battery is disconnected to allow doors to shut properly. <br /><br />Removal ("A" Bank) <br />Tips Click a link to view tip <br />Tech1Tip: special tool <br /><br /><br />Remove timing cover. See TIMING CHAIN COVER (NON-SUPERCHARGED). <br />Remove the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid. </span><br /> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">Remove the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing retaining bolts and remove the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing. </span><br /> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">Remove and discard the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing "O" rings. <br />Raise and support vehicle. Remove the bolt which secures the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor to the flywheel housing. Remove the CKP sensor and allow it to hang free under the engine. Remove the torque converter bolts access grommet from the flywheel housing. </span><br /> <span class="postbody" roundtrip="0" lastvisited="77">Install the crankshaft damper bolt (old one) to the crankshaft, hand-tight only. Rotate crankshaft until the triangular arrow indent on the flywheel is visible through the access hole. See Fig. 144. Confirm that the timing flat on each camshaft is uppermost position. <br />Position the crankshaft so that the Crankshaft Setting Peg (303-531) engages fully into the timing slot. Install and tighten the bolt to secure the crankshaft setting peg. See Fig. 145. Remove the crankshaft damper bolt from the crankshaft and lower the vehicle. <br />Install the Camshaft Locking Tool (303-530) to the "A" bank camshafts, aligning the shafts slightly as necessary. Loosen the bolt that secures the exhaust camshaft sprocket and the bolt that secures the variable camshaft timing oil control unit. See Fig. 146. Remove camshaft locking tool. <br />Remove the primary chain tensioner bolts, primary chain tensioner and tensioner backing plate. See Fig. 147. <br />Remove the primary timing chain tensioner pivot bolt and remove the primary timing chain tensioner blade. See Fig. 148. <br />Remove the bolt which secures the primary timing chain guide. Noting the position of the primary timing chain guide, remove the primary timing chain guide from the upper retaining pin. See Fig. 149. <br />Remove the primary timing chain from the variable camshaft timing oil control unit and from the crankshaft sprocket. Clean and inspect all components. <br />Installation <br />If "B" bank timing chain was removed, see INSTALLATION. If not, go to next step. <br />If previously removed, install the timing chain sprocket to the crankshaft. The teeth of the "A" bank and the "B" bank timing chain sprockets on the crankshaft must be out of phase with each other. If they are in phase after installing, remove the sprocket, turn it on its vertical axis and reinstall sprocket. See Fig. 150. <br />Install the chain tensioning tool to the exhaust camshaft sprocket. Reposition the sprocket (and the variable camshaft timing oil control unit) for the most advantageous position for use of the tool. See Fig. 151. Remove the tool. <br />Install the primary timing chain into position over the crankshaft sprocket and the variable camshaft timing oil control unit. There must be no slack on the drive side of the primary timing chain and the sprockets must not be rotated on the camshafts, or the tensioning tool may not fit. See Fig. 152. <br />Install the primary timing chain tensioner blade to the cylinder block. See Fig. 148. Install the pivot bolt and tighten specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Push the primary timing chain tensioner piston into the tensioner body to provide clearance for installing the primary timing chain. Insert a thin rigid wire through the hole in the end of the tensioner piston to displace the ball from the non-return valve seat. See Fig. 153. With the wire in position, press the piston fully into the tensioner body. Remove the wire. <br />Install the 2 primary timing chain tensioner bolts to the primary timing chain tensioner and locate the tensioner backing-plate on to the 2 bolts. Align and install the primary timing chain tensioner to the cylinder block and to the mating slot on the rear face of the primary timing chain tensioner blade. See Fig. 147. Tighten the primary timing chain tensioner bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Use a Primary Chain Wedge (303-533), or 2 if needed, between the primary timing chain tensioner and primary timing chain tensioner blade, to take up the slack in the chain for tightening of the variable camshaft timing control unit and exhaust camshaft sprocket. See Fig. 154. <br />Using the chain tensioning tool, apply force to the tool in an counterclockwise direction to tension the chain on its drive side. See Fig. 151. While applying opposing force to the sprocket and chain, tighten the exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Using the Variable Camshaft Timing Oil Control Unit Setting Tool (303-654), rotate the variable camshaft timing oil control unit fully counterclockwise to the fully retarded position. See Fig. 155. <br />Check that the primary chain wedges are still in place. While applying opposing force to the sprocket and chain using the chain tensioning tool, tighten the variable camshaft timing oil control unit bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Remove the chain tensioning tool and the primary chain wedges and camshaft locking tool. <br />Raise and support vehicle. Remove crankshaft setting peg. Install the CKP sensor and bolt to the flywheel housing. See Fig. 143. Tighten the CKP sensor bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Install the access grommet to the housing and lower the vehicle. <br />WARNING:Check that the ring dowels are engaged squarely. Fully locate the assembly as much as possible by hand. Failure to follow this procedure may result in damage to the vehicle. <br /><br />Install NEW "O" rings to the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing. Lubricate the "O" rings and the bushing. Install the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing. See Fig. 142. Install the variable camshaft timing oil control unit housing bolts. Tighten to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Install the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid. See Fig. 141. Install and tighten the variable camshaft timing oil control solenoid bolt to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. <br />Install the timing chain cover. See TIMING CHAIN COVER (NON-SUPERCHARGED). </span><br /></td></tr></tbody></table>

Chain saws don't have a blade,so i think that you need to give me more info about what your problem is.If you mean the chain bar that the chain runs along,then you need to remove the cover from the chain bar and then loosen the bolts that hold the bar on and then slide the bar back until you can remove the chain,once the chain is off you can then just pull out the bar.

Where the bar meets the body of the saw there is an adjustment lug that will either push the bar outward tightening the chain or may be retracted allowing slack in the chain. When backed off (loosened) sufficiently, the chain may be removed for replacement. In order to use this feature, however, there are two bolts that secure the bar to the body that must be loosened prior to any adjustment and tightened bach up after making adjustments to the chain. The above will be enough to remove and replae the chain. If you are taking off the bar (that the chain runs on), you will need to remove the two bolts that were just loosened for the chain adjustment (above).
Regards! --WoobieDog--