Your wires to the generator could be backwards, if you have a multimeter you just have to disconnect the generator and the "DF" terminal at the regulator (mechanical regulator), set your multimeter to check the resistance (ohms). You want to keep one of the probes of the multimeter in contact with the cable coming from the regulator, and with the other probe you want to touch either cable and see which one is giving you a reading and that one is the one coming from the "DF" terminal from the regulator and should be connected to the "F" terminal in the generator. Cable (wire) coming from the regulator "D+" terminal has to be connected to the "A" terminal in the generator.After you correctly connect the generator you can run the test mentioned above by Steve.
I have never heard of any aftermarket manufacturers making a chrome generator. Look closely and see if the generator has a chrome cover over it. Make sure you are touching the "A" or armature terminal with the jumper wire from the postive battery post. The "A" terminal should have two tan colored wires going to it with a green wire going to the "F" terminal. Usually, you see a small spark but you may not. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Check the voltage at the battery with the engine running at high idle. You should be reading between 14 and 15 volts at the battery. If not, your battery will not stay charged. Have checked the brushes in the generator to make sure they are not worn out? To test the Maximum output of the generator, disconnect the wires from the "A" and the "F" terminals. Set your volt meter to read DC volts on the 50 volts or greater scale. Connect the positive voltmeter lead to the "A" terminal and the negative lead to ground. Start the engine and idle at 2000 rpms. MOMENTARILY connect a jumper lead from ground to the "F" terminal of the generator. Your voltmeter should read 25-30 volts DC. If you do not read this voltage, you need to check the generator for worn brushes, a shorted armature or field winding.
Good Luck
Steve
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