I have a 2003 Dyna Wide Glide. My battery will not charge. The voltage regulator is new, and when I load tested the battery, it was only putting out 12.51 volts at all RPM levels. I then tested the stator and the Ohm test proved ok at 3.0, but when I did the AC test it was only putting out 3 volts, I tested both configurations, leads in 1-2, 2-1.

Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries. All voltage readings will be on the DC scale except for Stator Output which will be AC you will need a multi-meter to conduct the following tests. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector in the charging system with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9.6 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Make sure your voltage regulator is properly grounded with a clean tight connection, then check voltage at the battery with the bike running between 2000-3600 RPM, depending on your system specs, your readings should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers or the reading is 15 volts or higher replace the voltage regulator.
4. Faulty regulator diodes can allow excessive amounts of voltage going back to the battery causing it to overheat, boil its contents and swell the casing. The excessive voltage will also spike the charging system allowing light bulbs to surge brighter than normal until they fail along with the main circuit breaker.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to the ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.v-twinforum.com/threads/2002-dyna-wide-glide-not-charging.171988/
http://www.mediafire.com/file/n32mo9rud2vadf4/2002_Harley_Dyna_Service_Manual.pdf/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Check the voltage regulator and the stator.

ENGINE OFF,UNPLUG the regulator, test continuity from each conductor to ground on the stator, if you have continuity STATOR IS SHORTED... if you test voltage OUTPUT at the stator, it should be around ten volts AC! NOT DC! per thousand RPM... THEN use a 12 volt test lite from regulator leads to ground, if ANY light happens at either lead, BAD regulator

I'd take the plug out of the case and check voltage with a multi meter

Hi, Deeaarrggaa before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Loose wire/cable connection at one of the battery terminals, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, check it at both ends, coil, or plug between ECM or ignition module.
4. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
5. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
6. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
9. Enrichener valve inoperative.
10. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
11. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
12. Faulty ignition coil.
13. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/681502-procedures-for-testing-stator.html
http://www.mediafire.com/file/jl8r784mf99v62w/2007+Harley+Dyna+Service+Manual.pdf
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
https://ownersmanuals2.com/harley-davidson/wide-glide-2007-owners-manual-66493
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

Are you sure it's not your battery? Have you had it "load tested"? Just because a battery measures 12 volts with a voltmeter does not mean it's good. Connect the volt meter to the battery and then press the start button to put a load on it. If the voltage drops below 10 volts, it's bad. You can have one cell of the battery shorting out when a load is put on the battery. Take it out and take it to an automotive parts store. They can usually test the battery and they normally don't charge for the service. Otherwise, I'd say your starter may be bad. You'll have to do a current draw test on that and you'll have to find a shop that can do that for you. Most shops don't have the test equipment to do that.

Good Luck
Steve

Hi, Sinnercyles this is the sort of electrical problem that is probably mechanical. In other words, a complete failure like this suggests there is a break in the wiring or a blown fuse. If nothing on the bike is working, but the battery is fully charged, there are not many parts of the bike that can cause that lack of power. I can only recommend starting at the battery and working your way along with the wiring, checking every connection, including the ignition switch. There is probably a broken connection or failed electrical part that should be obvious when you come across it.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
https://hdbitchin.com/index.php?topic=4913.0
http://www.mediafire.com/file/65e9i0e80baqvhz/Harley-Davidson_Dyna_Service_Manual_2003.pdf/file
https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/ronnies/showmodel.asp?make=hdmc
http://mybikemanuals.com/harley-davidson/harley-davidson-dyna-glide-owners-manuals/
https://www.6ya.com/how-6ya-works to speak to me personally.

remove both ends of both cables and wire brush them shiney. Then reinstall (neg off first, on last). Try that first. If that does not help, start checking your other grounds around the bike. If everything is tight, try this:Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm.To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast. To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.

1. Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
2. Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
3. Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
4. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)

Have your alternator checked.

heck all connections especially the one thru the motor to the regulator-check battery to make sure levels are good and have it load tested