Replace engine and it slowly over heats. I have no heat also. I change the hoses and replace the termostate and the radiator. The engine has 60,000 miles and was taken out of operating vechile. (95 Honda aacord) I would appreciate any help

Even if the radiator fans run all the time, you would still have heat in the car. The thermostat prevents the engine coolant from flowing thru the radiator until it opens.
Could have low coolant and air pockets in the system.

May need to bleed the air out of the system after the hose change. Look for small bleed valve on the top engine or cooling hoes/pipe bleed slowly while engine is at operating temp, then refill after reservoir after car cools down

make sure engine coolant level not low.to replace thermostat on the V6 engines you need to raise the front of the vechicle support on jack stands remove splash shield from below engine.you need to drain coolant from radiator.you have to place radiator support panel in service position then follow the lower radiator hose to engine to the thermostat housing.

no
just the harmonic balancer the bolt is tensioned to 112 ft/lb so get a1/2 " impact wrench as that will undo the bolt without the need to hold the crankshaft
may need a harmonic balancer puller but with that tension
the pulley should slip of the shaft with a bit of effort
to get space to run the impact gun , you may have to remove the radiator

REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.IF CAR OVER HEATING WHILE IN MOTION.MORE LIKELY ITS THE THERMOSTAT,LOW COOLANT IN RADIATOR OR COOLANT SYSTEM,BAD WATER PUMP,WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE IS LEAKING, WATER PUMP NEEDS REPLACING.CHECK ENGINE OIL,IF OIL LOOKS LIKE MILK SHAKE YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET.IF CAR IN PARK AND OVER HEATS WHILE IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE OR.BANK DRIVE THROUGH COOLANT FAN NOT TURNING ON, BECAUSE THE ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR FAULTY.CODE SCAN CAR FOR FAULTY COOLANT FAN RELAY OR FAULTY PCM. CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE, AND HOT WIRE THE COOLANT FAN TO MAKE SURE ITS WORKING.IF COOLANT FAN DONT WORK WHEN HOT WIRED. COOLANT FAN NEEDS REPLACING. REPLACE BOTH RADIATOR HOSES, REPLACE THERMOSTAT AND RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.BUY NEW COOLANT ADD 50/50 WATER AND COOLANT.IF ENGINE OIL HAS ANTIFREEZE IN IT.REPLACE ENGINE OIL AND OIL FILTER TO KEEP FROM LOCKING UP THE ENGINE.GET CAR FIX.DONT KEEP DRIVING IF IT KEEP OVER HEATING,ENGINE DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.I HOPE INFORMATION I GAVE YOU WILL FIX PROBLEM.PROBLEM COULD BE LEAKING RADIATOR HOSES BUT CHANGE THERMOSTAT THATS FIRST THING I WOULD CHANGE BECAUSE IF IT CLOSED, ENGINE WILL OVER HEAT AND CRACK CYLINDER HEAD OR CRACK PISTON, COOLANT NEED TO CIRCULATE THROUGH THE ENGINE TO TAKE AWAY THE HEAT FROM ENGINE.

There are a couple of different things that could cause the loss of heat. First make sure your radiator and overflow tank are full and at there specified levels. Run the engine till it reaches operating temperature( between 180 and 220 degrees). Feel the upper radiator hose and lover radiator hose , they should both be HOT , this lets you know your thermostat is working. If the top hose is hot and lower hose is cold. Replace the thermostat. If they are hot, check to see if both heater core hoses are hot ( 2 5/8 in black hoses heading into the firewall). If one side is hot and one side is cold, replace the heater core. If both are hot, you may have a broken cable or vacuum diaphragm that moves the direction control valve from hot to cold. Below are some example diagrams to help aid you in your diagnosis.

Hello! I believe you have an air bubble blocking the thermostat...Since you just changed it, the cooling system needs to be blead of trapped air...Start the engine with the radiator cap off, heat on high and let the engine run until all air has escaped...Slowly add 50/50 until all air is expelled and radiator is topped off...Replace the cap with a new one...Send a comment...Guru...saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

The problem is that more heat is entering the water than is being extracted by the radiator.

But there can be a lot of causes for that. If you have a head gasket leak, it can introduce hot gasses into the water, increasing the heat load while raising the pressure in the cooling system. That in turn can push water out of the cooling system, and into the recovery reservoir, where it can't help with the cooling of the engine.

If the fins of the radiator are blocked or folded over, that part of the radiator will not contribute much to the cooling.

If the internal water passages of the radiator are blocked, the area of the radiator is effectively reduced.

A worn out bottom radiator hose can collapse from the suction of the water pump, blocking the water flow.

If the fuel mixture is too lean (not enough fuel in the given volume of air) the engine will generate quite a bit more heat, possibly overwhelming the system.

When the engine is cold, the thermostat (a valve in the hose where water exits the engine to go to the radiator) is closed. This prevents water from going to the radiator, and that in turn prevents water coming from the radiator to the engine.

Water instead leaves the engine through the heater hose near the upper radiator hose, and circulates right back to the inlet of the water pump. So the water circulated through the engine, but it has no way to shed any heat it picks up. This speeds up the warm-up process.

The water circulating this way passes by the back of the thermostat, causing the thermostat to warm up along with the water.

When the thermostat reaches its opening temperature, it starts to open, allowing some water to go out of the upper hose to the radiator, and therefore some water from the radiator to enter the engine.

Right away, the water in the engine falls below the opening temperature of the thermostat and it closes.

The newly cooled water gets warmed by the engine, raising it to the opening temperature of the thermostat, and the whole process begins again. But this time, the water coming from the radiator is just a little warmer.

Eventually, the thermostat will stay at a partially opened position where the cooling by the radiator just matches the necessary heat loss through the radiator.

If there is not enough water, the surface area of the radiator is effectively less.
If the radiator is blocked, or the fan is not working properly, the surface area of the radiator is effectively less.

If the thermostat doesn't open properly, the radiator is not sufficiently utilized.

If too much heat is generated by the engine, it can over heat (heavy load at low speed will make a lot of heat without spinning the water pump fast enough, for instance).

These are a few preliminary tests to see what's going on. With a stone cold engine, start it and let it idle. The heater hose leaving the thermostat area should begin to heat up but not the upper radiator hose.

Once the heater hose starts to become uncomfortably hot, the upper radiator hose should start to warm up, slowly at first.

If the heater hose does not heat up, there might be insufficient flow throw that part of the system.

There is a quick check a shop can perform to see if you have exhaust in the water. There is a syringe they can use to draw the vapor in the radiator through a sensing liquid. If it changes color, you have a head gasket leak.

The radiator cap only need to be replaced if it is letting the coolant move into the reservoir improperly. If you coolant level remains fine, that is probably not a problem.

Your cooling fan(the electric fan in front of the radiator) is either damaged or not spinning. Don't drive it, until you get it repaired, or you
will seriously damage the engine.Good luck.

Why was radiator replaced?Did it have heat before ? If it was plugged, the heater core may also be plugged. Try flushing it with a water hose in both directions. I dont know why the botton radiator hose would be cold, the radiator should be a uniform temp and the air coming through the radiator should be HOT, when the engine is at operating temp. What condition was the old coolant? if it was rusty, the water pump may have lower flow than normal.