I have a 5 year old Hayward Analog Heat Pro heat pump. It started up this year without any problems, but now has stopped turning on. It is getting power and when you turn the knob, you here a clicking sound as if it was trying to activate, but nothing happens after that. I opened it up and found a mouse nest in there and there were a few wires that were chewed a little and mouse urine. I cleaned it out and fixed the wires. Still not going on. If it needed freon, it should still turn on right? Bad board perhaps?

Hayward pumps are poor quality. You're lucky to get ten years. In 4 years I've needed the motor replaced twice and the pump repaired. The motor is starting to whine again. Just a matter of time before it fails. Do yourself a favor and stay away from Hayward.

Low water flow, its heating up to high and doesn't want to melt itself down, sounds like a pressure switch problem or corrosion build up.

1) Not likely the timer is problem, unless there was fire or overheating in timer box. Use nose and eyes to inspect for signs of high heat.

2) Eliminate timer as suspect:
Move wires on timer to test if timer relays have gone bad.
Move terminal 4 to terminal 3
Move terminal 2 to terminal 1
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T104

3) Check watt rating of Hayward pump, and voltage.
1Hp motor at 240Volt draws 8 amp, and can draw 6 to 8 times that amount when starting. Up to 100 feet, should be at least 12 gauge wire and double-pole 20 amp breaker. Over 100 feet, 10 gauge wire and 30 amp double-pole breaker is best.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire.html#motor

4) Intermatic T104 240V timer is rated 40 amps
Can safely handle 1 Hp motor without nearing heat-rating capacity of timer

5) Make sure the motor is wired correctly for 240Volts.
If motor is wired for 120, and 240 is applied, then tripped breaker can result.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Actually, the clicking is likely causing the shaking. Inside the manifold of a H100 is a stainless steel diverter plate that send some of the passing water into the heat exchanger and lets the rest past and back to the pool. When it breaks, you will hear a 'clicking' noise at it rattles in the water path. When it breaks, the flow to the heat exchanger is intermittent and you will begin to boil the water, causing the shaking. This situation is dangerous, especially without a pressure relief in the heater or pipe. As long as your water chemistry is sound, Hayward will usually cover this under warranty even if the unit is over a year old. Contact them to get a factory authorized repair rep out at: http://www.haywardnet.com/locator/

Power to the unit but not the display + mice = bad board probably. Service call required...

Could be a firmware issue and require a new mother board. Unfortunately, you probably have done all you can on your own. Time to call the local HVAC service person...

Do you have something close to it like a hot tub or spa or pool? If so the Chlorine is reacting with the aluminum causing it to corrode.

I suggest moving one or the other if this is the case.

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from the Hayward support site....

Why is my pump cutting off and on every 5-10 seconds?

• Hayward motors are factory wired for 240 volts unless the motor is 120 volts ONLY. Check the voltage of the incoming supply power and ensure the motor is wired or can be wired for this voltage (data plate on motor will help provide voltage and wiring information). Also check for loose or badly connected wires. Contact a certified electrician for repair.