2003 Fatboy front forks seem to be diving rapidly and going to full compression over normal driveway entrance. I've picked up the HD fork oil. I believe the top cap is spring loaded. Will I need to remove the handle bars to remove caps or can I just drain them, put in the new drain plugs and copper washers, pop open the top caps and refill them or is there internals that will have to be removed too? Thanx.

To replace the front fork oil first support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended. Remember that the FLSTC and FLSTF models have a preloaded fork spring and that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure.Then you remove the fork tube caps. And then you drain the fork oil. ON FXSTD models, your remove the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil this way. ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT the FXSTD, remove and discard the drain screws and washers from each fork and drain the fork oil and then you install new drain screws and washers. ON FXSTD models, apply LOCTITE THREADLOCKER 243 (blue) to the drain screws and tighten them to 12-18 inlbs (1.4-2.0 Nm). ON ALL MODELS EXCEPT FXSTD, tighten the drain screws to 52-78 in-lbs (5.9-8.9 Nm).THEN fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80).Either by installing oz or cc's of fluid if the forks were left in the frame or by measuring the amount of oil in the tubes in inches or mm if the forks were removed from the frame and disassembled. In the latter case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

MODELs FLSTC, FLSTN use 13.4 OZ 395 cc4.41 inches 112.0 mm
MODEL FLSTF uses 13.4 OZ 397 cc5.04 inches128.0 mm
MODELs FXST, FXSTB, FXSTC use 12.5 OZ370 cc 6.69 inches170.0 mm
MODEL FXSTD uses 11.6 OZ343 cc 7.48 inches190.0 mm

FINALLY tighten the fork tube caps to 40-60 ft-lbs (54.2-81.3 Nm).

You may not have enough oil in the front forks or you may been a heavier viscosity of oil. I'm sorry but I don't have the oil capacity for your "Low Sportster". All I have is for "Hugger" models. They take 10.7oz. "wet" and 12.1 "dry". The difference between "wet" and "dry" is that if you simply drain and refill the front forks, it's call a "wet" oil change. If you disassemble and clean the forks of all oil inside, it's called a "dry" oil change. Contact the service department of your local shop and ask them how much oil goes in the front fork. To change the oil, there is usually a small screw in the trailing side of the lower fork slider down near the axle. Take these out and the oil will drain to a certain degree. Hold the brake while working the forks up and down with your weight to get all the oil that draining will get out of them. If you want all the oil out, you'll have to disassemble the fork tube. I would not do this if the seals are not leaking. Replace the screws in the sliders and then remove the top cap from one tube at the time and refill the tube with the specified amount of oil. Sometimes, the top caps can be difficult to get back in due to the pressure of the large spring in the front fork tubes. You may need a tool to compress the sping. I'm not sure on the "Low" model. I've always managed to the top caps back in without any special tool but I've never done a "Low" model bike. Harley uses what they call their "Type E" fork oil. I do not know what the viscosity of this oil is so I always use PJ-1 30 weight fork oil for most applications. Use only fork oil as any other oil may have a tendency to foam thereby negating any dampening action of the forks. If this doesn't solve your problem, you may want to check into changing the springs in the front forks. Progressive Suspension and others make kits for this.

Good Luck
Steve

Unless you've had your front fork assembly serviced recently, I'd guess you've got blown oil seals in the top of the sliders on your forks. If someone serviced your forks lately, they may have put in too much oil and blown the seals. You'll have to drain the forks, disassemble the fork tube from the lower slider and replace the seal in each leaking tube. Refill the fork tube with the designated about of oil for a "dry" refill. Use this figure because the fork tube was disassembled. When you simply drain the forks without a disassembly, you cannot get all the oil out and the refill quantity is less.

Good Luck
Steve

Since your bike is a 2011 model, I'd take it to the dealer and let them check out the loss of power. On the front end diving, you may need to put a heavier viscosity oil in the front forks. You'll have to drain the forks and then refill them with the proper amount of oil of a heavier viscosity. I think the forks come with H-D type "E" oil that is supposed to be about 30 weight. Use only "fork oil". You cannot use engine oil.

Good Luck
Steve

I have no diagrams for you. MAke your own as you take it apart etc and take lots of cell phone pictures if you need help remembering how to put things back together.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 184.9

FXDL 10.7 316 7.20 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

Changing fork oil is a simple mater for some models and requires fork disassembly for others. Here is the procedure for all 2001 DYNA models:

2001 DYNA FRONT FORK OIL 1.18

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.

ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:

a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.

Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge

FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.

DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).

ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.

INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

You may have an air adluster, schrader valve with which to add air pressure, or there may be settings on the rebound and damping settings, are the fork seals leaking oil at the sliders of the forks, springs do wear out as well, some bicks have anti dive solenoids activated via front brake activation and limit the compression of the front forks upon rapid braking, , you maty need springs, seals and thicker fork oil its hard to say exactly what you have going on but its one or more of these.

Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.

ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:

a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.

Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.

Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA

MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9

PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge

FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.

DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).

ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.

INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

If you ask this question YOU should not be doing it! but your *** on the seat not mine.
Remove ...........front wheel, front fender,top fork cap and loosen lower triple clamp bolts under head light cover, forks are now out!
Remove 6mm bolt at the bottom of the fork leg and drain oil,remove dust seal and wire clip, now remove the upper fork nut (the spring will jump out at you).Pull the leg and tube away from each other, the old seal will stay on the tube..clean and reassemble driving NEW seal down into place with wire clip.....refill with oil

There are three most common weights of fork oil. 5W is a light oil for a smoother ride, 10W is a heaver oil for stiffer suspension and 15W is mainly used for a stiffer ride such as racing. I have found 20W and 25W oils but they are not that common.
If you are a pleasure rider 5W or 10W would be the right oil for you. If you are always "in the twisties" and riding the limits of the bike, go with the 15W.

It is really difficult (but not impossible) to do it without the fork spring compression tool.