My 1997 eldorado intermittently will not start turns over great and when does fire takes right off. I recently replaced the ignition control module with a used one after it had a random misfire it fixed misfire problem then this started. Could the used ICM be my problem
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Circuit Description
This ignition system does not use a conventional camshaft position (CMP) sensor that detects valve train position. The ignition control module (ICM) detects when #1 or #3 cylinder has fired on the compression stroke using sensing circuitry integrated within each coil. The sensing circuit detects the polarity and the strength of the secondary voltage output. The higher output is always at the event cylinder. The ICM sends a CMP signal to the engine control module (ECM) based on the voltage difference between the event and waste cylinder firing energy. This system is called compression sense ignition. By monitoring the CMP and crankshaft position (CKP) signals, the ECM can accurately sequence the fuel injectors. If the ECM receives an intermittent CMP signal from the ICM, DTC P0341 sets.
Diagnostic Aids
• If DTC P0336 is set, diagnose that DTC first. An intermittent fault in the CKP circuit will cause the ECM to resync the cam and may set DTC P0341.
• An intermittent short to voltage on the CMP signal circuit can set this DTC. A direct short to voltage on the CMP signal circuit will set DTC P0340, as there will be no change in the cam signal input.
• The following conditions may set this DTC:
- High resistance in the #1 secondary ignition system
- Low resistance in the #4 secondary ignition system
- Corroded or loose #1 or #4 secondary ignition components
- Harness being routed too close to the secondary ignition components, relays, motors
If this DTC is determined to be intermittent, refer to Intermittent Conditions .
Test Description
The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table.
This step determines if DTC P0341 is the result of a hard malfunction or an intermittent condition.
Step
Action
Values
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Engine Controls Schematics
Connector End View Reference: Engine Controls Connector End Views or Engine Control Module Connector End Views
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
--
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls
2
Install a scan tool.
Turn on the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Are any other DTCs set?
--
YES - Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Start the engine.
Allow the engine to idle.
Observe the CMP Resync Counter with the scan tool.
Does the CMP Resync Counter increment to 14, then reset to 0 continuously?
--
YES - Go to Diagnostic Aids
NO - Go to Step 4
4
Observe the Misfire Counter current CYL #1 and #4 counters with a scan tool.
Is cylinder # 1 and/or # 4 Misfire Counters counting up?
--
YES - Go to DTC P0300
NO - Go to Step 5
5
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Disconnect the ignition control module (ICM).
Measure the voltage from the camshaft position (CMP) signal circuit at the ICM harness connector to a good ground with a DMM. Refer to Circuit Testing in Wiring Systems.
Is the voltage within the specified range?
4-6 V
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 7
6
Observe the CMP Resync Counter with a scan tool.
Crank the engine.
Does the CMP Resync Counter count up without resetting to 0?
--
YES - Go to Step 8
NO - Go to Step 10
7
Test the CMP signal circuit for a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 12
NO - Go to Step 10
8
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the ICM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 12
NO - Go to Step 9
9
Replace the ICM. Refer to Ignition Control Module Replacement .
Did you complete the replacement?
--
YES - Go to Step 12
--
10
Test for an intermittent and for a poor connection at the engine control module (ECM). Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 12
NO - Go to Step 11
11
Replace the ECM. Refer to Engine Control Module Replacement .
Did you complete the replacement?
--
YES - Go to Step 12
--
12
Clear the DTCs with a scan tool.
Turn OFF the ignition for 30 seconds.
Start the engine.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC. You may also operate the vehicle within the conditions that you observed from the Freeze Frame/Failure Records.
Did the DTC fail this ignition?
--
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Step 13
13
Observe the Capture Info with a scan tool.
Are there any DTCs that have not been diagnosed?
--
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
System OK
did you say scanner not powering up or you not getting any code.because if engine not firing a faulty crankshaft position sensor or ignition module will cause no spark conditions.also check 20 amp ignition fuse to ignition coils and ignition module,check ignition battery feed 10 amp fuse to the pcm.check at the 16 dlc terminal at top ground terminal 4 that would be fourth terminal top from left to right.and check bottom far right terminal 16 see if you getting getting battery power.if fuse all good no power at terminal 16 your pcm could be getting poor ground contact or problem in the pcm thats not a home fix dealership has to run diagnostic scan test look for pcm fault or wiring fault.
If by 'no fire' you mean no spark, check all of your fuses, and have the ignition module (located under the coil packs) checked. Autozone can usually check the ignition module for free. If it has spark, it could also be the fuel pump going out.
I recently had a problem with my '91 F150. It had started fine. Then, after I cleaned it some, it died and wouldn't start again. I think the ignition control module got wet on mine. If you are not getting enough fire, you might want to take the ignition control module off the side of the distributor and take it to Autozone/Advance or the like and get it tested. (You can get enough fire to turn the starter and it still not be enough. You'll need to take a plug wire off and see how hot it is when you turn it over.) The ignition control module is held in place by two screws that you can remove with a 7/32 socket if you have one small enough to fit. (Make sure they test it a few times (until it gets hot.) A bad one may test fine at first.) If it tests fine, you might want to buy a coil. For more detail about the ignition control module, see: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080506033632AAUGhGf
I don't know if your starter is turning over or not. If it is not, you might need a starter or solenoid. If you jump the solenoid and the starter turns, you probably need a solenoid. If not, you probably need a new/rebuilt starter (and maybe a solenoid, too.) I hope this helps! Peace and blessings!!!
I would first change the fuel filter could be clogged over time.
When you first turn the key in the ignition switch. Listen for the fuel pump in the tank should be turning on. You may have to get under the car and listen to the fuel pump coming on when some one else turns the key. The fuel pump should turn on a few seconds before trying to start. IF the fuel pump is coming on. The fuel pump itself is not holding the pressure anymore after sitting a while.
I would take to a local shop to check it out if the fuel filter does not work.
When looking at a power distribution schematic, the HVAC and cruise control share a dedicated feed from the ignition switch. It sounds to me like the switch has an intermittant fault, since the display is lit and then when cranked it goes dead (as it should) but the switch may never remake the contact when returning to run causing the loss of power.
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