Question about 2007 Yamaha YZF-R1

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I have a 07 Yamaha R1 and it shuts off when I'm riding. Ive changed the Ecu, the fuel pump, tilt sensor, new battery... I get codes 33,34,35,36 ignition coils. Bike had to sit for about 20- 30 minutes.before I could start it. What else could it be???

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  • Yamaha Master
  • 43,091 Answers

Hi, Tom and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Engine Cutting Out While Riding
engine cut out and other problems
Yamaha R1 YZFR1 2007 2008 Service Repair Manual Download Download Manuals...
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Posted on Aug 31, 2016

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Benimur
  • 6966 Answers

SOURCE: Electrical problem

Hi and welcome to FixYa,

Initially, pls try recharging the battery again. Remove the connector to the voltage regulator. Start/run the bike. If it lasts more than "3-5 minutes" then you have just confirmed a defective regulator. The voltage regulator would look something like below image.
eb8e29b.jpg
This page may give you additional insight.

Just a start, do postback how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

polarcycle
  • 1392 Answers

SOURCE: Bike not charging

Sounds like regulator/rectifier, stator, or charging rotor.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

MakisRC51
  • 408 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha dt 175, voltage question. When idling, my

You need new regulator and new battery.The battery works as a filter as well.If it is in bad condition it does not filter anything and in high rpm the current is very high.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

1fastbob
  • 301 Answers

SOURCE: error codes

Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes and reconnect. See if that helps.

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 99 r1

Your calipers are getting hung up because they are over heating. you could have to much fluid in the system, and it is not letting the pistons back into the caliper. You can rebuild the calipers or try to drain and bleed your brakes over again it might work it might not

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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1 Answer

2000 r1 wont start right back up after it has been rode.......even after a 5-10 min ride, have to let cool off then it will start back up


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Fuel tank empty.
2. The fuel tank has old dead gas.
3. Fuel tank bottom contaminated with ethanol sludge, dirt, water, rust, etc.
4. Fuel supply valve/petcock turned off.
5. Fouled spark plugs.
6. Engine flooded as a result of overuse of the enrichner.
7. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
8. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
9. Fuel line to carburetor or throttle body pinched, kinked or blocked.
10. Carburetor float stuck.
11. Fuel injectors clogged.
12. A severely discharged or damaged battery, you need 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
13. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
14. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil or plug between ignition sensor and ECM module.
15. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting check for spark leakage in the dark, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
16. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or MAP, CMP, CKP, O2, TPS, ETP, IAC sensors.
17. Faulty neutral, clutch lever, or kickstand safety switch.
18. Faulty fuel pump or fuse or relay.
19. A stuck bent or burnt valve.
20. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
21. Security system not disarming alarm needs a reset.
22. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Why does my r1 start but shut off?


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
2. Air fuel mixture screws not properly adjusted.
3. Inlet system air leak.
4. Leaking accelerator pump.
5. Loose low-speed jet.
6. Plugged low-speed jet.
7. Contaminated or plugged low-speed circuit.
8. Enrichner valve/choke not seated or leaking.
9. Multi carburetors out of sync and need to be balanced.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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1 Answer

2009 r1 runs hesitant and jerky


Hi, Jamescairns and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for leakage in the dark.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
18. Check for engine trouble codes
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/105-07-08-r1-mechanical-help/219579-07-jerky-throttle-response.html
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Nov 23, 2012 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

My r1 stalls after a time riding and stuggles to idle


Hi, Glen and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark.
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP sensor.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
11. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
12. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
13. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
14. Damaged carburetor.
15. Incorrect valve timing.
16. Weak or broken valve springs.
17. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
18. Check for engine trouble codes
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have nice a day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/105-07-08-r1-mechanical-help/261428-08-r1-unsteady-idle-stalling.html
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1 Answer

My 03 r1 cut off on me while I was rideing and wouldn't start back, I charged tha battery and started back ridein and it cut off again. Got a new battery and it went down. Help me please.


Hi, Tom and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/103-02-03-r1-mechanical-help/341271-03-r1-keeps-cutting-out.html
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-warranty-premature-failure/1513-engine-shuts-off-while-riding.html
https://r1videos.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/2002-2003-yamaha-r1-service-manual.pdf
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http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Jun 12, 2011 | 2003 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

R1 Y2K - changed the relay unit,but still dies while riding..switch off and on again,then it's o.k


Hi, Tom and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/4-mechanical-help/30642-2000-r1-dies-while-riding-battery.html
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-warranty-premature-failure/1513-engine-shuts-off-while-riding-26.html
2000 2001 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Nov 03, 2009 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Running bike just shuts down (dash goes black too) for a short time (0.5 - 2 secs) then all comes back. Would a bad contact on the battery connector have this effect ? Or is it more likely a bad contact in...


Hi, Tom and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.
10. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
11. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
12. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
13. Fuel tank empty.
14. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
15. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
16. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
17. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://www.r1-forum.com/forums/104-04-06-r1-mechanical-help/98831-2004-r1-cuts-out-update.html
http://www.r6messagenet.com/forums/r6-maintenance-technical/157806-my-electrical-system-shuts-down-while-i-ride-bike.html
2000 2001 Yamaha YZF R1 Service Manual R1 Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals

Jul 05, 2009 | 2000 Yamaha YZF-R1

2 Answers

2008 yamaha r1 keeps shutting off on me. i


I HAVE A YZF R1 2008 IT KEEP CUTTING OUT AND CODE 46 COMES UP ON THE DASH WHAT IS THIS CODE

Jul 04, 2009 | 2008 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Hard to start


hellow that is a R1 Not a honda civic it takestime for fuel pump to get going also ecu to work fuel injection to kick in

I Have A R1 2000 carb and i ride with a lot of guys these bikes just take 2-20 secs to start after that they run great your bike is fine leave it alone

Mar 13, 2009 | 2006 Yamaha YZF-R1

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