Question about 2001 Yamaha DT 125 R
My dt 125 r 2001 model is not charging the battery and I don't know why also inside the speedometer mechanism that connects to the front there is a clip holding down a washer that retains a large washer that has three catches on it .this has two flat inside edges and these flat edges hold it in place on a gear which spins the cable making the speedometer work the flat inside edges on my large washer are worn and rounded ...I need this part as well..help me.
Hi, Samellis before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
DT125R Lighting Charging
Yamaha DT125RE 2005 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA DT125R Owner Manual
Posted on Jun 17, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: dt 125
In your case I would suspect that your timing is retarded and the bike would run better/correctly if you set it to factory spec. Or maybe you have a mechanical 'advance' and it's stuck in the retarded position?
Good problem ............ let me know how you get on
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Sounds like a charging issue. First check all wires and make sure they are clean and making good contact, then check for proper voltage at the battery. I ride a harly so I don't know the exact voltage to look for but it most likly is around 13V at the battery if it isn't you need to look at your voltage regulator and stator.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
Go to the site below where you can see a parts diagram for your specific bike. You will select the actual brand, year, model, etc., once you go to the site. Part numbers and prices are also shown. You can order parts from this site. In the event no price is shown on a particular part, the part is not in stock. www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrandand/parts.aspx
Go to the "FRONT WHEEL" tab then enlarge the image if needed. This will show the construction of the assembly. It sounds like you have a good handle on the repair. Remove each bearing from the opposite side. Yes , just drive the bearings out with a rod smaller than the axle.
I don't get paid for my answers but I do take pride in them, and I am only trying to help. So if you will, > > > > A “very helpful” rating for this answer? Thanks!
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
Have the battery load tested after charging. When reconnecting , make sure everything is off. Then put a test light between the negative cable and neg bat bat post. If it lights, something is drawing the power. Ti,e to find the silent parasite. Everything should be key controlled. unless an accessory has been wired into a hot wire that isn't. Good Luck,, -Ned_
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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