All trans to engine bolts are removed. engine mounts are free, engine still won't come out. I don't know what else could possibly be keeping it from seperating. Is it absolutely necessary to remove to the torque convertor from the fly wheel?

Disconnect battery remove drive shaft, remove starter ,remove mounts undo bolts around bell housing,leave one bolt in so it won,t fall out, remove speedo wires and trans pipes if auto undo bolts to convertor put a floor jack under it and ,then remove the remaining bolt lower Trans down.

Did You remove the driveshaft and trans mount to crossmember ? and also I would shuck it side to side and up and down might be just hung up on dowel pins , put at least 2 bolts in and loosly start them, this way when does break free it won't fall ! did you check for bolts going into bellhousing from front side of eng . I have seen bolts go through this way from of engine and screw into trans, besides the ones around beelhousing

if you don't know what your doing it will take you and a couple of your buddies to get it done you will need jacks and jack stands remove both wheels remove both tie rod ends remove the bolts fro the bottom of the struts remove if you have a trans oil pan plug to remove trans fluid remove all electrical and trans cable go under car near trans and engine look up remove the access panel to access the flywheel and torque convertor take the bolts off separating the torque from the flywheel remove the trans bolts separating the trans from engine when installing make sure the torque is seated in the trans really good spin the torque a couple of times until you hear a it fall into place begin reinsatalling in reverse order until the last screw is in place

If you just can't get to that last bolt (have you tried a universal joint or wobbly?), then you will have to hang the engine up to remove the motor mount. Lay a heavy board across the fenders with blankets between board and fender to protect the paint. Chain up or tie up the engine to the board so it won't drop when mount is removed. Of course, if you have a "cherry picker" hoist you could hold the engine up with that. It won't be a great weight to hold with the other mounts still secure. If the radiator won't let you get to the mount, take it off too.
When you are done, and oil pan back on, just use a jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood between jack and oil pan, to raise engine for installing the mount back together.

Remove the driveshaft.

Disconnect the Neutral Safety Switch, the speedo cable/wiring and any other harness connector and secure the wiring where it won't restrict removal.

Remove the starter bolts and secure the starter out of the way, you can leave any wiring connected but don't let the starter hang on it's own wiring. Your battery negative cable should be disconnected during this entire process.

You'll need to remove the shifter/linkage and the clutch components that connect to the transmission.

Remove the bell housing bolts, any front cover, then you've got the crossmember to remove.

A large floor jack can help a lot, but a transmission jack makes this job easy.

I think I've covered the basics. You'll want to wrap something around the end of the trans to keep you fluid in if you tilt that much.

it takes a bit of rocking up and down gently on the tailshaft sometimes to break the trans away from the engine, they have been stuck with each other a while, but not too much force. Then come straight back for about 3-5" before lowering, to clear the pressure plate and clutch assembly.

Anything connected needs to be removed, fairly straightforward job.

Good luck !

I suggest that you get the vehicle specific manual for the exact process but here's the general idea:

Remove:
The hood, the front axle nut on both sides, the tie rod ends, and ball joint, as much of the brake system and suspension as necessary to get the axles removed.

Then, with it up in the air on sturdy ramps:

CV Axles (making sure to put blanks in their place to prevent anything in the transaxle from slipping out of place, the starter, shift linkage, grounding straps/wiring harness, shift cables, speedo cable or wiring as applicable, sometimes both, any lines going to the transaxle. Hydraulic clutch lines if a manual and trans fluid lines if an automatic.

You'll need to loosen the motor mounts and possibly the hoses to the engine as you may need to tilt the engine downward to get the trans. released and have room to pull it out.

You should have everything out of the way, a hoist over the engine/trans compartment hooked to a sling around the transaxle to lower it and remove it from the bottom side once you remove the transmission mount and the bellhousing bolts.

There is a bar designed to hold the engine in place so that it doesn't twist too much, you'll have to fabricate a means from underneath or above to keep it from tilting too far.

I'm an older guy and I can do one of these jobs in about 5 or 6 hours these days. (Lord help me the next day though.)

This is why you really need an illustrated step-by-step manual for your vehicle. It's a detailed time consuming job.

Keep a pan handy for holding nuts & bolts, springs & clips.

Good luck.

Not too big of a deal. Disconnect battery.
Remove driveshaft from vehicle. Disconnect any electrical wiring from transmission. Remove starter. Remove gear shifter. Support transmission on a transmission jack, or a good sturdy floor jack. Remove rear transmission mount, and crossmember. Lower transmission slightly to help gain access to the engine-to-trans bolts. Unbolt slave cylinder and hang it out of the way. Remove engine-to-transmission bolts, and bouncer bars (if equipped) Slowly pull transmission away from engine. If it's stuck, double-check to make sure all the bolts are out, then try raising or lowering the trans a bit with the jack and/or pry in between with a pry bar to help break it loose. Remove transmission from vehicle. DON'T lose the dowel pins! They are needed to line up the engine to the trans properly. Remove clutch pressure plate from flywheel, and remove pressure plate, and clutch plate. If the rear main seal is leaking (behind flywheel) NOW is the time to change it (cheap $10 part) Installation is in reverse of removal. Good luck!!

Chaining the engine down is a bandaid and a bad idea unless you have a hot rod with 600 HP, there is a reason the mounts are coming undone (don't understand "mounts keep on coming undone due to a combination of problems" ) fix or replace broken mounts, don't forget the transmission mount, If you fix it right it won't mess up other things later like CV joints

Front brakes are very simple to do:

• Pull off the front tires.
• Remove the brake pads by removing the slide pin bolts where the piston assembly attaches to the caliper mounting bracket. The slide pin bolts are usually a 12 or 14mm bolt. Once the piston assembly is free slide the old brake pads out.
• Compress the piston back into the caliper by using a large pair of channel lock pliers or a c-clamp. If you don't do this, you won't be able to get the new pads on.
• Before you put the new pads on, replace the rotor.
• Remove the two bolts for the caliper mounting bracket. They are in the back and are bigger than the slide pin bolts. Usually a 17 or 19mm bolt.
• Pull off the caliper mounting bracket.
• At this point the old rotor should slide right off. If it doesn't slide right off, look for a screw in the center of the rotor, some cars will have a screw there to hold the rotor on. If there's no screw and it still won't come off, try tapping it with a hammer. If you're replacing the rotor, don't be shy.
• Put the new rotor on. Make sure to clean off any grease with brake cleaner that may be on the braking surface from packaging.
• Put the caliper mounting bracket back on.
• Put the new brake pads on. Make sure to use some anti-squeal grease on the back of the pads.
• Put the caliper assembly back on with the slide pins. Grease up the slide pins as well.
• Put the wheels back on.
• Make sure to pump your brakes 10 - 15 times before you drive off. Because you compressed the piston back into the caliper, the piston will not be contacting the brake pads unless you pump the brakes.

Good Luck!
~Brandon

You may need to lift the body to get to them. I would loosen all of the body bolts and lift it just enough to get a swivel socket to them,