Question about Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883 Motorcycles

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On a 1998 883 sporster on the front brake calliperdoes the bleed nipple go to the top and brake line to bottom or vice versa

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The bleeder nipple should go to the top because air rises to the top of the brake fluid. I seem to remember that the holes were not the same thread as well but I may be mistaken.

Steve

Posted on May 25, 2011

Testimonial: "thank u the threads are the same yhe back is hose bottom put dot 4 in instead of dot 5 what will this cause"

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How to bleed brakes


Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.



To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.



You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.



1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).



2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.



3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.



get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.



4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.



5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.



Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-1.jpeg

Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-3.jpeg

Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.








A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.









bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-10.jpeg



Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-15.jpeg



Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-21.jpeg

Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes with dual discs


There has to be a bleed nipple on both calipers - its impossible to bleed a two calipers on separate sides of the bike with two brake lines with one bleed nipple - go back and have another better look.

May 15, 2014 | 2012 Yamaha FJR 1300A

1 Answer

Bleeding brake lines


start at the far end brake one the thirst away from the brake servo or abs if its only 2 line type from the servo. usually driver side rear with abs. jack rear up off ground and remove the wheels put car on stands. using a bleed tool undo the brake nipple and have a clear tue over the top. this is were you need some one to help. run engine for a min or to then turn off. persson on brake undo the brake nipple and person in car pumps the brake pedal. ( make sure there is fluid in brake servo tank) when you see there is no air coming out after the bubbles have come out tell the person to stop. when you want to stop the pedal must be held to the floor until the brake nipple is back on tight. then move on to the next wheel do the same . run engine for min or two. then off do as before. when done the back start on the front. top up to full again in servo tank. jack up front on stands no wheels then start on drivers side front wheel. do that as before then other wheel. if at any time you lose pump pressure . lock down the brake nipple as stated before and start engine then off and restart to bleed again. you can buy a pressure kit to help do this follow the instructions on the kit to do the brakes. tools you will need a brake bleeding spanner 8mm or 9mm depending what has been put in place when fitted. a jar to catch the fluid when draining and bleeding the the line. and a clear tube to see the air in the line. don't rush the job take your time. if and fluid is spilt clean up straight away as if on paint work it will remove the paint.. keep some sand around to clean up fluid off ground or cat litter. when all finished check brakes befor driving around repeat if dont feel right still

Jan 12, 2014 | Worldwide 1994 GMC G2500 Vandura 5.7L...

1 Answer

Brake bleeding sequence for 1995 buick


Most cars are done the same way:
1: Farthest brake from the master cylinder (rear)2: Opposite side from the first brake.3: Farthest from the master cylinder on the front.4: Remaining brake.
BTW: I would advice using the traditional method of using a clear bottle with some fluid in the bottom and a clear hose running out of the fluid, through the bottle top and which can connect to the bleed nipple. When bleeding fluid, make sure the fluid in both the master cylinder and to the bottle is clean before closing off the bleed nipple. Then pump the brake after bleeding each brake and feel for any softness. If you feel softness after bleeding any particular brake, then you will know that you just introduced air into that brake line, and will need to bleed again.NEVER allow your master cylinder to become totally empty whilst bleeding as this will mean you have to bleed all air out of the total system and start again from scratch. This can be a huge pain!

Nov 02, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I've just changed the brake shoes. How do I bleed the brakes please?


This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

May 27, 2011 | 1992 Daihatsu Charade

1 Answer

How to bleed the brakes after you replace rear brake lines


hi, if you look at the back of the brake drum you will see a little bleed nipple just sticking out think its an 8ml or 10ml spanner fit, what you then need to do is find a piece of plastic pipe that will fit over the top of this to catch any fluid then make sure the brake fluid is topped up, you then need someone in the car to operate the brake pedal and some one at the back where the bleed nipple is once you have this you need to do the following

1 undo bleed nipple a couple of turns
2 get person in the car to push brake pedal to the floor and hold it on the floor.
3 when pedal is at floor tighten the bleed nipple up and get the person to let the brake pedal come up.
4 when pedal is up all the way undo bleed nipple and get person in car to push pedal to floor.
5 when pedal at floor tighten bleed nipple up
6 let pedal up
7bleed nipple undo a bit
7 pedal down to floor
8bleed nipple do up
9 pedal up
10undo bleed nipple

now keep doing that until all you have got coming out is fluid and no air when you have this do bleed nipple up and check the brakes to make sure they are not spongy.

whilst doing this you need to make sure the brake fluid level dont drop to low as you will have to bleed the front as well so keep checking the level and make sure its well topped up throughout the whole process

if you have any problems give me a shour back ok

Aug 14, 2010 | 1998 Chrysler Cirrus

1 Answer

Replaced rear brake shoes then bled brakes.couple days later pedal went to floor before i had brakes.rebled brakes thinking air in line. Worked for a couple hoursthen went down again. Checked for leaks...


i am not sure about the process that you used to bleed the brakes, whether it was a one man bleeding kit, or anything else, but this is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

Jun 30, 2010 | 1992 Pontiac Sunbird

1 Answer

I have no barkes i put all new lines on and no i bleed them starting whit right rear and still no


When you stand on the brakes does the pedal feel soft or hard? If soft the chances are you still have air in the system. Tighten (not too much just enough to prevent the escape of brake fluid) all the bleed nipples. Now make sure there is fluid to the maximum in the master brake reservoir. Stand on the brakes to extend all the slave pistons as far as they can go with the current situation. Starting with the the right back (as you correctly did originally) put your finger tip over the end of the nipple and undo it with an open ended spanner by only a quarter of a turn. Have a friend step on the brake pedal. When he has got to the bottom of travel push your finger hard on the nipple tip and tighten the nipple gently with e the spanner. Your friend can now release the brake pedal slowly. Again ask your friend to press on the pedal and then you undo the nipple a quarter of a turn to bleed of the fluid (and bubbles). When your friend reports that the pedal is on the floor, again tighten the bled nipple. Again your friend can only now release the brake pedal slowly. There will come a point when your friend will notice some resistance to the pedal before you slacken the bleed nipple to bleed the fluid. Keep bleeding this brake until a quarter of a pint of fluid has been pushed through and now tighten the bleed nipple firmly. Add fresh brake fluid to the brake reservoir under the hood. Now repeat this process with the back left wheel, then front right and then front left. The important thing is 1) ensure that the brake pedal is never lifted until the bleed nipple is tight otherwise air is sucked in through the nipple; having your finger tip on the end can help avoid this and 2) to ensure that the reservoir is always full of brake fluid so that only fluid can enter the system and not air 3) that you bleed plenty of fluid through the system, when you replace brake lines it is surprising just how many little pockets of air can hide in it. Good luck

May 12, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Need to know the order in which to bleed the brakes as i have to replace the master cylinder and will be doing it at home!


Start from the nearest caliper to the master cylinder. If it is left hand drive, start from left-front then right-front then left rear then right-rear and vice versa for right hand drive. A tip I learned from a friend is to use a small clear plastic bottle and rubber tubing. Poke a hole through the bottle cap and insert the tube all the way to the bottom. Fix the other end of the tube to the bleed nipple/nozzle and bleed away. I find this to be the most efficient way to bleed brakes without worrying about spilling brake fluid on your garage floor and you won't waste fluid since you can reuse the fluid in the bottle.

Jul 06, 2009 | 1989 Nissan Pulsar

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