Question about BMW K 1200 GT Motorcycles

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Noise from right side of engine after dealer cked valve train was told the bike flooded due to battery died, noise still present in engine was told it could be in clutch , was not there before dealer cked it , was told it could be a timing chain tensioner ? what can I do ?

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  • jwsmith163 May 24, 2011

    The bike also has a hesitation on take off now that i did not notice before , do these bikes realy flood out often when the battery goes out ?

  • jwsmith163 May 24, 2011

    Yes it answered a lot of my questions

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Hello and welcome to FixYa!

I suspect that it's the timing chain tensioner as well. It really makes noise when worn out. I strongly suggest that during the tensioner replacement, have the timing chain be replaced too. This will prevent future engine breakage.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Posted on May 24, 2011

  • afarri
    afarri May 24, 2011

    Yes it may flood during the battery failure for there will be no enough current to burn the fuel. I strongly suggest that you replace the plugs and plug wires as well for better fuel burning.

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Your bike came with an oil dipstick. It should be on the oil filler cap on the back end of the transmssion. You can get a new dipstick from a dealer, aftermarket shop, or here at this link.

http://www.bikebandit.com/1999-harley-davidson-flhr/o/m1019#sch146813

As for the ticking noise, if it's just a slight tick that sounds like it's coming from the top end, this is normal. Your engine is an older design engine using pushrods to operate the valves instead of the more modern overhead camshaft design like other bikes. This is what makes a Harley a Harley. Harley-Davidson motorcycles are designed and built for the motorcycle purist that still likes the looks and lines of a classic motorcycle. They like a motorcycle that doesn't have a radiator on it. As such, the valve train is not as quiet as the more modern design. As long as the noise is not so loud as to be distracting, there's probably nothing wrong with your bike. If the noise is distracting or attracts the attention of other riders nearby, you may need to take it to a mechanic. Without hearing the noise, anything that I say would be even worse than a mere guess.

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1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
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4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fronk Forks---Plunk
9. Gears---WHINE
10. Head Gasket---HISS
11. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
12. Pistons---SLAP
13. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
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15. Solid Lifters---TICK
16. Starters---CLICK
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CLUNKING NOISE FROM STARTER
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Yamaha SRV250 1992 1996 Workshop Service Repair Manual Download Manuals... $10
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http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-sr-owners-manuals

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Ticking coming from the engine


Hi, The noise may be due to an exhaust pressure wave that is migrating past the secondary A.I.R. check valves into the hose plumbing. The pressure wave produces an objectionable noise similar to valve train noise or detonation. The noise migration is due to system pressure imbalances and is not an indication of a component part malfunction such as faulty check valves.

Perform strategy-based diagnostics to determine the source of the engine noise. For evaluation purposes. disconnect the A.I.R. crossover tube (3) and cap off the check valve outlet nipples (1 and 6). If this is the condition responsible for your concern, the source of the noise has now been eliminated and can be confirmed with a test drive.

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Depends. You will get some valve noise as the bike gets older, however, this noise is only noticable at Idle. If you are getting a loud enough noise at crouse speed to the point of being annoying then the chances are you have a lifter that is starting to collapse. This is upper end noise only. If you are getting a lower end noise and have at least 30,000 miles on the bike. Chances are the valve drive chain tensioners are going. This is a known problem with twin cam engines. I have two twin cams and had to replace the tensioners on both. My advice to you if this is the problem is to go to Gear Drive cams. I did it without any regrets. I have a quicker power response and was able to increase my rev. limit speed by almost 200 rpms. The down side according to some is a wining noise. I don't get any noise I can hear over my Python 3 pipes. In my opinion the benefits out weigh the noise. Without having the bike in front of me this is the best I can suggest.

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1 Answer

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5. Vacuum hose to the fuel supply valve/petcock disconnected, broken, cracked, or pinched.
6. Fuel valve/petcock or filter clogged.
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8. Loose or corroded wire connection at the coil, battery or plug between ignition sensor and module.
9. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting, cable connections loose, or connected to the wrong cylinders.
10. Ignition timing incorrect due to a faulty ignition coil, ignition module or sensors (MAP, CMP, CKP, O2 and/or BAS).
11. Security alarm needs a reset.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Engine still making loud knocking noise sounds like hammer on metal
http://www.i-bmw.com/showthread.php?t=40483
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloads/K1200LT_Repair.pdf
BMW Motorcycle Parts Fiche OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts online 1970 present BMW
http://www.bmw-motorrad.com/fi/fi/bikes/tour/k1200lt/media/Rider_s_Manual_K_1200_LT_2008.pdf

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The real problem is the way noise travels around the engine. You could have a collasped or collasping tappet, or a bent push rod, or even something wrong in the valve train. What usually is done is that you start at the tappets / lifters and inspect them, then the pushrods, then the valve train. You either repair or replace what is worn. It can get expensive say if you need a new valve.
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Hello redevil67...This is normal for the HD engine, it going to have valve train, top end noise at some point, some as early as 2000 miles. If you take it to the dealer they will try to sell you on worn tappets...key word here SELL..I've seen this many times, dealer replaces componets, 2000 miles later the noise returns.
These are hydraulic valves and as you probably know they operate at zero lash. Personaly, i feel that the problem is that the cams are not hardened properly or machined incorrectly.. When the leading edge of the cam lobes wear to a strange profile it tends to snap the lifter up in the lifter bore. This causes the rest of the valve train to rattle. You hear the noise on top but the culprit makin it, is the cams..Many chose to go with an aftermarket cam, such as an andrews...Another suggestion, is to switch oils. Don't know what you are useing now, but i'm not a fan of dino oil. As the temperature builds the more an oil is stressed. Lucas full synthetic 20w-50 or Mobil1 15w-50 are both excellent for anti-wear and long term protection.
I hope this helps, please rate me a fixya and good luck with your bike.

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1 Answer

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