Question about 2002 Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider

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Battery won't charge when riding is it my voltage

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If the cells are dead in the battery, it will never charge. You can go to Autozone and they will test it for free. The question would be if the battery is dead, why?? Are you just starting to ride after last season? How long has it been sitting? If sitting a while, the battery may just have died to age. If you are driving it all year, have the alternator/charging system checked

Posted on May 24, 2011

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2006 Honda VTX 1300 R not charging


Hi, Chuck before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
04 VTX1300C Charging System Problem
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Honda VTX1300S Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VTX1300C VTX 2004 Owner Manual

Jun 29, 2017 | 2006 Honda VTX 1300 R

1 Answer

New stator and regulator flat battery after journey


What model motorcycle motorcycle is it. I have had a simular problem one time with a customers motorcycle customer brings the bike in for the same problem i charged the battery then checked the charging all normal could not find the problem so asked the customer to take it for a ride being he lived close to the shop it did it again he brought it in and checked it it was charging normal so i just let it run and heat up checked the charging no charging. It was the stator when it hit a certain temp it stopped working you may want to try the same test.

Oct 26, 2012 | Triumph Daytona 600 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Battery failure -- discharging while engine running


Hi, yes you have either a faulty stator or regulator/rectifier. Check if you have ac voltage out of the stator to the regulator if so the reg is bad, if not the stator is bad. Regards Phil.

Jul 10, 2012 | Mtd Garden

1 Answer

Ttr 230 wont start with new battery


Hi, Grant the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
My TTR230 won start plz help
What to Do Check When Dirt Bike Won Start
Yamaha ttr230 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha TT R230 Owner Manual

Jun 18, 2012 | 2010 Yamaha TTR230

1 Answer

I have a 2002 polaris ranger 500 6x6. it will run but the battery wont charge there is only cable an that goes to the starter switch could the switch be bad ?


If your battery won't charge it sounds like a voltage regulator or a stator. The stator is basically an alternator, but it is internal behind the flywheel. Sometimes the battery itself won't charge as well. If you need help testing the stator or voltage regulator let me know, I can walk you through it if you have a volt meter. Otherwise a reputable shop will have to diagnose and repair. Daniel

Oct 13, 2011 | Polaris ATV

1 Answer

My battery in 1981 suzuki gs 850 g keeps dying on me, I charge it up everytime I come back from a ride,the battery is only a few weeks old,could it be my voltage regulator,or a wire that has some of the...


Start the bike and put a voltmeter across the battery; you should get a reading of probably around 13.5V. If you're getting only about 12V or less, the battery isn't charging. From there you will need to go to the alternator terminal on the regulator and see if you're getting more than 12V. If you are, the regulator is probably bad, if not it could be a bad rectifier if there is a seperate rectifier or a bad stator. Good luck and safe riding.

Jun 27, 2011 | 1981 Suzuki GS 750 L

2 Answers

After charging battery will start it but after shutting her off she will not fire up again she does tur over but with little juice, 1986 honda vfr700 interceptor


It sounds like your battery is not getting charged, so you're running your bike with a "total loss" electrical system. Your bike will run--for quite a while if the headlight isn't on--off the stored energy in a battery.

If this were a car, the immediate place to check would be the alternator and / or the alternator belt. With a motorcycle, especially one of this vintage, I would actually start somewhere else. One of the most common reasons that a bike will fail to charge is that it has developed ground issues. Double-check the negative cable attached to your battery. The other end most likely attaches to the engine or the frame with a big bolt. Look for any rust at that mounting point. You probably won't find any, or else the bike would never run very well, but it's an easy first check.

Charging problems I've had with older Honda motorcycles have often been with the voltage regulator or with one or more connectors in the electrical system, rather than with the stator itself. Trace the output wires from the stator to the voltage regulator, which is usually mounted away from the engine (it's often near the battery box or under a side panel). With the bike running, use a volt meter to check two things: (1) output from the voltage regulator; and (2) raw, unregulated output from the stator into the voltage regulator. A bad regulator may be putting out voltage that's too low, in which case the battery's stored energy is tapped to make up the difference. On the other hand, if you're not seeing ANY voltage coming out of the regulator, make sure that juice is being fed into the regulator so it has something to do.

If you're not seeing voltage on the input side of the regulator, the problem has been narrowed to the stator or to a bad connector in between the stator and the voltage regulator. I have seen a number of problems arising from low-quality wiring insulation used in 1980s bikes; it's much cheaper to fix that than to replace the stator in your bike. Alternatively, if you're seeing input voltage but not output voltage from your regulator, I'd suspect you may have found the problem. I believe, though I'm not certain, that Honda still used a mechanical as opposed to digital regulator on this bike, and those mechanical regulators do go bad. You can find used but warranted replacements for not too much money online; depending on how universal the regulator is (Honda used the same voltage regulator in all of its motorcycles from ~1971 through 1978), a brand new one may not be all that expensive, either.

A final, somewhat random thought is that you should also take your battery to an auto parts store to have it checked. A heavily sulfated battery will test out at 12.6 volts, but it won't be able to store its rated amperage. A battery like that may work well enough right after it's been taken off an external charger, but it won't have the amps to turn over the starter after it's been sitting for a while. This doesn't sound like what you're experiencing, which is why I didn't lead off my solution with this suggestion, but a weak battery will put a lot of stress on your charging system and can can lead to some odd symptoms.

Good luck!

May 27, 2011 | Honda VF 750 C Magna Motorcycles

2 Answers

1982 Yamaha XJ 550, the battery will not take a charge. New battery, checked all connections, ran all the tests (stator, brushes, and alternator). Replaced the voltage regulator/recifier. Not sure what is...


It is corrected properly, right? + to the wiring harness and - to ground ... right? Are you certain about the rectifier? Is the battery charged at this time?

You know a alternator cannot make power unless you first put power into it ... right? Alternators (unlike most generators) are not self exciting. If your battery is weak or "dead", the alternator cannot make electricity to charge the battery. I don't know what the rating of your alternator is. Your battery should be fully charged before you do any more tests. If you have a 1 amp charger, allow at least 10 hours for a full charge. Don't cook your battery with a big, powerful, fast charging automotive battery charger.

Good luck with your repair ... I hope you find this response helpful.

Thanks for your question @ FixYa.com

May 02, 2011 | Yamaha XJ 650 Motorcycles

1 Answer

94 flstc. On first start-up, 35 AC stator, 14.5 v off battery. About 15 minutes into ride, lights dim to near nothing, battery always needs a charge after even a short ride. Regulator?


It sounds to me to be the battery. if you have a digital volt meter charge up your battery and first with the bike off check your voltage at the battery if this is between 13 and 14.5 volts that's a good voltage (but the cca ((cold cranking amps)) can be off) after you've gotten your voltage start the bike and test for voltage at 3000 rpm or 10% throttle if the voltage is over 16 volts or has not changed and starting to drop, check the connection to the stator and regulator located at the front of the primary chain case on the inner primary and that the long single wire from the regulator to the battery is good check 3000rpm voltage again if this did not fix the problem then you may have a problem with your voltage regulator.

Nov 14, 2010 | Harley Davidson Harley-Davidson FLSTC...

2 Answers

Harley Davidson battery went dead after riding 20 miles during the day. I rode my Harley Dyna Super Glide (2002) about 10 miles, made a stop and then rode 10 miles back. I stopped to get gas about 1 mile...


1.What?

2.What?
You charged the battery off of the battery charger with a trickle charge. The battery wouldn't charge while you're riding, because your alternator took a cr@p.
(Sorry if I seem gruff, but I'm an old biker, and Harleys are all I ride. I'm also a Harley mechanic.
Shhhh! I don't want that to get around! lol!)

3.Battery is at 13.4 volts now? What is the specific gravity of the acid in each cell? Don't have a hydrometer? Do you have a load tester? No? Since you measured the voltage, do you have a multimeter?

Test the voltage with the bike running. It should be around 14.6 volts when charging, less with the battery fully charged.
Don't get the correct reading, then you better look at alternator replacement. (Regulator is built in)

Jul 13, 2009 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

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