Question about 2000 Husaberg Fe 501
Hi mate I am Yamaha man myself but thought this may help I get this question often for YZ yamahaa if your cam is installed you will never get the chain over it on - YZ at least, you need to place chain over cam sprocket at same time as installing the cam before cam is locked in (and even that is very tight fit) especially if brand new cam chain is being fitted as well cheers mate not sure this helps but it sounded familiar good luck
Posted on May 23, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Jun 12, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Removal & Installation
Fig. Timing belt routing and timing marks-3.5L Engine
Fig. Timing belt and related components-3.5L Engine
Fig. Adjusting the tensioner pulley-3.5L Engine
Fig. Measuring the auto tensioner rod-3.5L Engine
Timing Chain, Sprockets, Front Cover & Seal
Removal & Installation
Fig. Timing chain and related components-3.8L Engine
Fig. Left timing chain markings and installation: (D) exhaust camshaft sprocket (C) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine
Fig. Right timing chain markings and installation: (C) exhaust camshaft sprocket (B) intake camshaft sprocket-3.8L Engine
Fig. Sealant application (1 inch bead width)-3.8L Engine
Fig. Timing cover sealant application-3.8L Engine
Fig. Timing cover gasket installation (A) gaskets-3.8L Engine
Fig. Timing cover bolt torque sequence and specification-3.8L Engine
May 19, 2012 | 2004 Kia Sedona
Nov 05, 2011 | Cars & Trucks
Hi mate didn't get any info on what bike you are timing but this procedure is simular for most and is specific for WR YZ 250 426 and 450
set piston to TDC (top dead centre)
this can be done by spinning the fly around until you can see the (i) mark
stamped on the flywheel line up with the marks on the inspection plug hole
(engine case) good idea to probe the cylinder through the spark plug hole to
confirm the flywheel mark is correct (I have seen several 426) where the TDC
mark does not give accurate TDC on piston so worth second guessing this
once TDC is set do not allow piston to
move from this point on - starting with the exhaust cam with no slack on the
cam chain the dot stamped on the cam sprocket should align with the face of
head with the cam lobes pointing outward roughly 45 degrees towards the front
wheel when this in place
you do the same with intake cam except
the cam lobe will face opposite direction outward and the should be a dot
aligning to the head
double check before you go further that
when you put your finger in the chain tension hole and you tension the cam
chain that when all slack is taken from the cam chain that your dots on both
cams align with head face and that you still have piston at TDC if all checks
out then this is timed set correct so torque all the cam caps back up install
chain tensioner and the recheck all fly wheel marks are in correct position and
piston is at TDC and the dot on each cam sprocket aligns to the head if it
doesn't then re do the process
don't be surprised if this takes a few
attempts as it takes the best of us usually at least two attempts to get all
marks to align correctly thats why best to check and double check before you
bolt it all down then you can adjust just by lifting one cam out and moving one
tooth either direction
You have little room to play with and
when you start putting chain on the cam sprockets you will find very little
extra chain length to play with you may need to wiggle tug and pull both cams
together to get them back in each time but go slow and gentle they do go in
they just need to be encouraged
I happy to elaborate on any point if
you need - good luck
May 28, 2011 | Yamaha XT250X Motorcycles
May 24, 2011 | Yamaha WR 426 F Motorcycles
Ensure that the tensioner is properly reset. The tensioner body must be bottomed against the top edge of the Tensioner Resetting Special tool 8186. Failure to properly perform the resetting procedure may cause tensioner jamming.
Timing cover and gasket and torque the M10 bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) and the M6 bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Accessory drive belt tensioner pulley
Power steering pump
Crankshaft center bolt and torque the bolt to 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm) using tool 8191
Accessory drive belts
Fan module and electrical wiring harness
Upper radiator crossmember
Negative battery cable
Dec 25, 2010 | Dodge Intrepid Cars & Trucks
Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)
4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)
2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)
2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)
1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)
1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)
1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)
new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.
new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change
of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing
chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for
The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com
My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:
$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab
$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC
worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and
should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon
you could do it in half the time the second time).
It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.
is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in
the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is
possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the
engine in the car.
will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main
reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid
car - except for the plastic guides!
Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford
mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft
sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.
Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.
Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.
At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.
engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams
180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other
settings may cause major damage to the valves.
2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that
anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.
The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.
the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in
the same position either up and level or down and level.
is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each
other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate
for crank timing but not engineering failure.
warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a
few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its
still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.
heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you
need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam
sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.
is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into
the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about
90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)
the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will
save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US
$119 - then sell them again for say $100.
is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws
right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to
enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the
right spot on the cam.
Dec 20, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer
Aug 15, 2010 | 1997 Nissan Pickup
Feb 01, 2009 | Yamaha YZ 250 Motorcycles
Jul 08, 2008 | 2000 Isuzu Rodeo
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