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Anonymous Posted on May 22, 2011

1985 Chrysler 5th ave 5.2l c.i.d. will not charge, new alternator,regulator, new gel battery new cables. if i charge the battery the car starts and runs great,but over the course of 6 hours or so if i stop it will not turn over again,and it lacks power while driving. i have ground for the regulator and have 3 or 4 new ones and have tried them all. changed the alternator at the store tried 4 still no charge. belt is working and in good condition. i have used my gel battery in my 1979 motor home 440 and it charges fine,also in my 2000 explorer.and it charges fine with a charger.

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  • Posted on May 22, 2011
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It sounds like you did every thing write... well i would start checking for a burnt (fuse-able link wire)
i know chrysler uses alot of fuse-able links.. start at the positive side of battery...
i don't know if you know what this is? a fuse-able-link is a plain looking wire that will melt inside the rubber casing, the way i check them is by grabing the wire with two hands and try to pull the wirer apart.. if it streches it blowen....Hope this help you out???

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  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison May 22, 2011

    I would be frustrated too- If you don't own a multimeter, you should, before the dollar collapses and we cannot afford Chinese goods any more. You can get them at auto parts stores, Radio Shack or on eBay (VERY cheap) and for your purposes, make sure the meter has a separate 10 Ampere range.
    You can find these locally for < $20 US and don't let them talk you into anything more costly, you don't need it.
    These are handy for vehicle and home use and offer AC, DC voltage ranges, resistance and some lower DC current ranges, other features may be there but not important for most people.
    If you have one or get one: with the engine off (and the car at home) disconnect the negative (black) battery cable. Move the red (+) lead of the meter to the separate 10 A jack (this is not fused so do the following very q

  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison May 22, 2011

    To continue (dunno why it's necessary): Move the red (+) lead of the meter to the separate 10 A jack, this is not fused so do the second step very quickly, touch the black (-) meter lead to the negative battery terminal, then briefly, the red (+) lead to the negative battery cable. If the display shows only little change, try it again but a little longer.
    If the display seems to want to settle somewhere other than blinking (over-range), leave both leads touching until you get a reading.
    If you have reading in whole numbers (such as 4.51) this means that some device in the car is drawing current even when not running.
    This can, of course, drain the battery.

    If you can leave the leads attached (while not frying the meter), start pulling and replacing fuses until you find the circuit causing the current drain.

    Good luck-

  • Steve Allison
    Steve Allison May 22, 2011

    My posts appeared in reverse order so read the lowest one from me first.

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