2 of the holes that the bolts screw into that hold the servo on are stripped. How can that be fixed without taking it all apart or dropping the transmission? ....or can it be fixed? Please help

This is the electric motor inside your servo that actuates your 4wd/2wd/diff locker. When the servo goes out on these bikes, it's more than likely the small electric motor. Simply pull the servo off the front differential, open it up and you will see the small motor inside. I pulled the complete diff out in the instructions due to having to change a seal but you can do this with it still in the bike.



If you have a skid plate on you will have to remove it to access the bottom bolt on the servo. I also recommend having the bike in 2wd to ease in installing the servo back on the diff.

Remove the 3 bolts that hold the servo on the diff. Gear oil is going to pour out unless you drain it first.
Soory last pic 5
Once removed installation is the opposite. Just be sure not to turn anything inside the casing once you open it. The small worm gear on the motor doesn't matter just don't turn anything else.

Install back on the bike fill with gear oil and enjoy your 4wd and the money you saved.
pic 1

pic 2
Once the servo is removed from the diff. Remove the six T-25 tamper resistant tq screws that hold the servo together.

Once you get the screws out, carefully pry the servo apart taking extra care not to turn the gears inside.

Once apart it will look like this.
pic 3
You can see the two screws that hold the little motor in.
pic 4

Remove those two screws and carefully pry up on the motor and remove it and the small gear attached to the end of it.

Picture of the motor removed.

I just finished doing this so I am going to put the steps in order and very clear:

Remove the one screw which hold the plastic under the door latch. Do this first since if you take window control piece out first and you drop the screw it ill go into the door and you might have trouble finding it later.

Pull up on the plastic with the window control, using a flat head screw driver, come up easy. Unplug the wire.

Pry off the cover on the door pull arm, start from the bottom comes off easy again with flat screw driver.

Unscrew the three screws (large flips head), Pull out the screws and save so you don't loose.

Start from the bottom and pull out the panel now from the door, using a weed puller or a long flat head screw driver. Most come out OK, if they come off the panel you can reattach to the panel.

Lift panel off door and up and it is done.

Window motor assembly is attached to the door by 3 bolts. It is attached to the window with one other bolt (10 mm, all of them). Window needs to be down 2/3 of the way so you can access the bolt.

The motor and other parts comes out of the hole pretty easy.

Install new assembly, attach wire, lower window so the connector for the window attachment is moved down (it comes in the up position).

Attach window with the bolt. Attach the assembly to the door (3 bolts).

Put the panel back up in reverse order.

I have taken a lot of doors apart and this was actually one of the easiest, Freelander is a piece of junk in maintenance department so good to know how to take it apart. Have to take the other side apart soon to fix the door lock actuator.

Either way ,is a lot of work. First thing I would try is a little bit longer bolt. Take a screw driver and push into the stripped hole to determine how long you can go.Even 1/4 inch more threads might be enough to hold starter secure. A little sealer on threads would be good.. If all that fails ,try to oversize the bolt and retap.Make sure the oversize bolt will go through the starter. I have had good success with J B WELD [brand] to drill and retap. Just make sure the surface is clean

Use some gasket glue to keep the gasket in place if you have some handy. Although i find the best way with troublesome gaskets is to make some guide bolts. find 2 bolts the same thread and diameter as the thermostat cover hold down bolts. Cut the heads off the 2 bolts, screw into bolts holes and drop the gasket over the top. Drop the termostat and cover down, hold pressure against the cover and slowly replace the guide bolts with the good original bolts. Tighten up and all should be in place. Hope that is helpful

The easiest way to fix this problem is to install a helicoil in the stripped bolt hole. This is a specialist job that requires special tools, but I would not expect it to be very expensive other than any work required to gain access to the bolt hole. Go to a local mechanic and ask them to install a helicoil. If they have never heard of this, go somewhere else.

why not drill to seperate holes and put self tapping bolts in to hold it on simple fix

Is possible, on your Neon to remove the entire air cleaner assembly? If you can get the assembly out on work bench maybe you can get on it with a "Vise-Grip" (locking plier) and get it out. Or take electric drill and drill the bolt out and replace it with new. When you say it's stripped do you mean the threads are stipped and it spins but won't come out? Or, is the head of the bolt or screw stripped out and the wrench or screwdriver won't grab it? If you do get it apart make sure you put some grease or anti-sieze compound on the threads of the bolts so they won't rust in. Good luck!

you need to find it asap or you will have to re place the tran ok.

Just pull the dash back a little by undoing all the bolts and screws, its going to be a tight fit find someone with small hands.