Question about 2001 Yamaha YZF Thunder ace 1000 R

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The thread on the drive shaft where the front sprocket is attached has stripped. is it possible to weld or rethread as this is hardened metal ? any advice would be appreciated thank you

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  • Yamaha Master
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You have probably already been told the only permanant fix is a new shaft.
I have seen these nuts welded on as a temp solution, it can damage the seal and cause an oil leak, If you go for this option.Use a high nicklel rod like a stainless steel rod, and do a couple of small welds with cooling time between. but remember this can fail with unknown consequences.
Do not do this just to sell the bike, if it fails and throws someone down the road, you will be responsible, and in the worse case liable for prosecution

Posted on May 21, 2011

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The bolt broke off in the crankshaft on the PTO on my Cub Cadet LT1042 I drilled it out off centered , how do I have it welded & rethreaded ?


the news will not what you want to read but ---
the cost to do hat will be more than the motor is worth
welding the hole up will be a disaster as the weld will not go down the hole but simply weld over the top
next to drill the hole if you were successful in the welding would need the shaft to placed in a lathe so that it could be drilled dead center and the thread in installed straight in
I would suggest that you get the price of a shaft from a mower shop or from a mower wreckers or get the price of a new motor and then make a decision from there

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Perhaps there is a gear with stripped thread where it attaches to the sprocket or the sprocket itself with stripped thread? In any of these cases, the whole sprocket should be replaced and in the second case the sprocket and hub. This accounts only for 6 or 7 gear sprockets.

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This could be a few things:
1) Your clutch plates may have worn out so that even when the bike is in gear, it will just rev, but no power will be transmitted to the drive shaft (smaller front chain sprocket is the driving gear, larger rear sprocket on the back wheel is the driven gear)
2) The front chain drive sprocket has come off under the cover on the motor - if the chain is really slack, have a look.
3) The front chain drive sprocket SHAFT has sheared. (basically, meaning that the shaft has broken into two parts as it couldn't handle the drive power (torque) being delivered through it to the chain drive) With the motor on, listen for grinding noises internally
when you rev, from the vicinity of the front chain drive cover. If its rough and grindy, the shaft may be sheared. Then with the motor off, take the cover off and leverage the small chain drive sprocket away from the motor with a screwdriver, and see if the shaft can just be pulled out of its sealed opening. Unfortunately with these bikes, the metals used in drive shafts and motors are not always heat-treated or hardened to the standard they should be, so shearing and premature failure can happen.
4) The gearbox or something in it has blown, unfortunately for the same reason above, quality related.
Its fair to say that these great little bikes are here for a good time, but not for a long time.

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1 Answer

TB525es attachments no longer working


NOT THE CLUTCH.. Mine started doing the same thing recently...what I found is the metal piece at the end of the main shaft that accepts the drive from the accessory was stripped out....the part from MTD/Troybilt is $60... Save the $60 its an easy fix....

Remove the sleeve at the end of main shaft.... clean thoroughly with brake cleaner...

Mix a small amount of JB Weld and fill along the walls of the "rounded out" area..Let set for about 2 hours so it gets firm but soft...

Take an attachment, and slide it up into the receiver..making sure to align them square with the receiver. this will form the JB Weld putty to the drive piece. remove the attachment immediately!!!.
Then let it set over night.... DONE works like a champ again next day.....

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1 Answer

My gear will turn without having the chain on . When chain is attached it the motor just works. No chain movement


I wasn't familiar with your saw but I looked at the parts diagram for it in the link below thinking there may be a replaceable drive pin or something like it that would possibly have sheared.
http://www.masterparts.net/111409-01.html
I didn't see any. That would indicate that the sprocket may be stripped out on the inside and would require replacement, or, that there is something stripped inside the gearcase. If you look at the diagram, the motor shaft is parallel with the handle. So to drive the sprocket gear that drives the chain, they use gears inside the housing to turn the sprocket that's at a right angle to the motor shaft. Do you follow me? It would appear from the parts diagram that if it is those internal gears, that it would require replacement of the whole motor/gear assembly ...... probably as expensive as a whole new saw!

The reason that the sprocket turns without the chain on is that there is evidently enough friction between the shaft that the sprocket mounts on, and, the sprocket. But not enough of a connection to drive the chain.

To check further, leave the saw unplugged, and use your finger to try to turn the sprocket. If it turns by hand like that, it would indicate that something is stripped out as I said. To see if it is the sprocket, remove the "Retaining Ring, 5/16" that is shown in the diagram, and inspect the inside of the sprocket. If that appears good, then it would be an internal problem and probably not worth fixing.
Good luck!
Ed

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Take a better end view of the output shaft where the sprocket goes and I will be able to tell you what goes there. It normally has either a large nut that threads on the output shaft, a bolt w/washer that screws inside the output shaft, or a retainer clip/metal bracket that attaches to the the sprocket and output shaft. Take some clearer pics of the shaft end and new sprocket and post them.

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1 Answer

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