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How to remove starter motor from 1994 kawasaki gt 550 motorbike

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Kawasaki Zephyr 550 remove and replace the front fork springs

if you are just replacing the springs then its quite a simple step. put your bike on the centre stand, undo the top nuts on the forks with a socket but becarefull when you get near the end as the spring will try to shoot up,keep you weight on it, withdraw the spring slowly making sure you dont loose any fork oil. then just carefully remove the spring and replace it with a new one, reassemble as above in reverse order. ie put spring in place the nut back on and keep your weight on and slowly tighten, make sure you dont crossthread it. i think the nut is either 17 or 19mm.hope this helps

Posted on May 23, 2009

DoubleClutch
  • 376 Answers

SOURCE: how do i remove starter motor from bmw r60/5

Disconnect the battery. Remove air box covers. Remove fuel tank. Unscrew cover and remove. Disconnect wires. Disconnect mounting bolts and remove.

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

  • 26 Answers

SOURCE: DO YTOU HAVE TO PULL THE STARTER ON A KAWASAKI

i do believe that its easier to replace the silynoid with the starter out of the machine that is if it isattached to the start other wise no if its like most kawasaki four wheelers you need to disconect the abttery and then trace the main power to the silynoid and disconect it there also and then remove and install new silynoid

Posted on Nov 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have a 1987 kawasaki js 550 and i just rebuilt the motor

Hi dallasbendfe i have just rebuilt my 1987 js550 and it seems too have the exact symptoms as yours i was wondering if you had anymore information on it?

Posted on Mar 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: How do i change fork seals on a Kawasaki gt 550

Hi,

I was told by many people it was a hard job.
I didn't think so.

What you need is:
New Seals.
8mm Allen Key.
Half Inch Stocket bar AND Extender.
Extra Fine Sand Paper/Polishing Device.
Fork Oil + Measuring Jug.
Threaded Bar with a Two 19mm Nuts Locked to each other on one end.
Spanners.
Screw Drivers.

How to do:

First Get the Front end off the Ground (ALOT, Center Stand on Bricks for extra height.)

Remove Front Wheel and Brake Calipers.

Open Drain Philips Screw on Base of Fork (Both Sides). Dont Lose Rubber washer under screw. Watch Out Also for Oil Being under Pressure.

Remove Nut from TOP of Fork (Alowing Handles and mirrors to come loose).

From Top you can see down tube has Nut/Cap with a Square Half Inch center. Use Socket Bar (and Extender if needed) without Bit to Remove reach in and remove. Watchout for Spring Pressure under the Cap/Nut.

Use Screw Driver or Hook of some kind to remove Preload Spacers, Washers AND Spring from Fork.

Slide your Threaded Bar with19mm Nuts (Make sure they are Locked Tight together at one end) down into the Fork and let it catch on the Oil Damper at the base. You will know when it's cought because you wont be able to spin the threaded bar anymore. This will stop the Damper from spinning while you undo the Allen Bolt at the very base under the fork (Outside).

Use Allen Key to remove Bolt from Underside of Fork While having someone or somthing hold the Threaded Bar form spinning.

Now look at the Old bust/leaking Oil Seal. There will be a Clip/Locking Spring in a Groove holding it in place.

Remove Clip without Damaging any part of clip or fork.

If Everything above was Done, you can now give the slider( Bottom Part) a big tug and it will all come lose.

One Part of the Oil damper will either fall off, or be left in the slider(Bottom Part). It slides over the Damper in the base of the tube.

Clean Everything.

Clean Again.

Polish Tube.

Clean Again.

Remove Two Split Washers from base of Tube and Copper Washer. Remove Old Oil Seal.

Place New Oil Seal on Gently.

Replace back on Copper washer, followed by two split washers.

Use Grease as a kind of glue to hold the part of damper that fell off back on.

Slide Slider back onto Tube.

Screw Allen Bolt back into base of slider as per originally was (Remeber to hold Threaded Bar if it starts spinning)

Push Gently new Oil Seal into Fork Slider for Snug Fit. Be Gental.

Replace Clip/Spring over top of Oil Seal Locking it in place.

Remove your threaded bar from top of Fork.

Replace Spring into Fork.

Replace Philips Oil Drain Screw into base of fork (Dont forget Rubber washer).

Now: For a GT550 (I am told also KZ550 but can confirm) you need 300ml of 15 weight Fork Oil. EACH Fork. So a Total of 600ml whole Job. IN EACH SIDE YOU WILL ADD ONLY 300ml of FORK OIL. (15w)

After this. Replace any washers, Preload Spacers and so back into for.

Replace Cap/Nut into Fork Tube with Socket Wrench and Extender.

Replace Handles and Moirrors and Nut holding both of these.

Replace back onto bike the Front Wheel

Check Brake Calipers for leaks and Pad Wear. It's Very Cheap to get new Pads. Not cheap to have months off work after a crash.

Replace back onto bike Calipers.

Pushing Bike (Not ride) test Brakes and Suspension.

At This point I am thinking your done. You may need to Add Air Preload into the Fork via the Air Valve. 4PSI is a Starting Point. I have run upto 15psi. Without Air in the Preload you may find it too soft. Upto you.


Did I Forget Anything?


Posted on Jul 21, 2010

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i do believe that its easier to replace the silynoid with the starter out of the machine that is if it isattached to the start other wise no if its like most kawasaki four wheelers you need to disconect the abttery and then trace the main power to the silynoid and disconect it there also and then remove and install new silynoid

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