Question about 2007 kawasaki ER6f ABS

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I Have a 2007 kawasaki Er6f. the relay on the abs pump is not working. Is there a way i can fix it or do i need to replace the whole pump. This is the second time this happens. the first time the bike was under garantee so kawa fixed it.

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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To remove/unlock the seat on a Kawasaki er-6f find a circular hole under the plastic seat fairing half-way along the seat on the left-hand side. Using the ignition key twist the lock set in the hole

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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SOURCE: front end vibration

Check if there's any play within the bearings..top and bottom of the triple tree. Put your bike on the center stand and ask someone to sit onthe bike seat and tht way it will raise in the front, try to shake the triple tree into forward and backward motion, if you do find some play thn try to adjust them(bearing)...careful not to keep em tight or else you wont get a good balance on the steering whiles riding!
Check the bushing at the handle bar too!
Hope this helps!

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

vetteman3002
  • 2299 Answers

SOURCE: FL red warning light comling

There are 3 things that this could be. Blown fan fuse, fan relay bad, or the fan itself is bad. I would start by checking the fuse. If the fuse is good once the bike gets warm to where the fan should be on then check for power at the fan. Unplug the fan and see if you have power at the fan. If you don't have power at the fan, that means that the fan relay is your problem.

Posted on Nov 17, 2010

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I have an 06 kawasaki er6f and the abs light comes on then goes off randomly it has 1600 miles on the clock any ideas what's wrong before I go to a garage. Thanx


There appears to be weak connection between the ABS sensor send-in unit and the light. check for connections that you might be able to disconnect and then reconnect.

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Hi Gary, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki but despair not for a mere $19 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Hi Anonymous, I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki but despair not for a mere $19 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/2011+kawasaki+er6f

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1 Answer

2011 Kawasaki ER6f power just died suddenly while I'm ridding


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, stator, magneto, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Faulty neutral, side stand or clutch lever safety switch.
10. Faulty or corroded kill switch.
11. Accelerator pump damaged or not working.
12. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
13. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
14. Fuel tank empty.
15. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked, loosen gas cap and go for a test ride.
16. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
17. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
18. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
19. Petcock clogged or damaged.
20. Lean angle switch is faulty or needs adjustment.
21. Catastrophic engine failure, perform a compression test.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

2007 Kawasaki ER6f misses at low rpm


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor has oil in the bowl due to excessive oil in pre-mix.
14. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
15. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
16. Fuel filter clogged.
17. Old or contaminated fuel.
18. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
19. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
20. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
21. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
22. Incorrect valve timing.
23. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
24. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
25. Incompatible performance parts.
26. The control module may be in "LIMP" mode
27. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, E_tech65323 for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can't find the best tool you ever bought for your Kawasaki, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
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Check you are using the correct key
Check the key is inserted properly
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1 Answer

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Hi and welcome to the site,

Initially, have the battery externally charged and load tested.

Offhand, check / replace the starter relay. As a test, bypasss the starter relay by momentarily jumping the 2 big terminals to spin the starter motor. If the starter motor spins, then starter relay most likely faulty.

Good luck and thank you for asking.

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