Question about 2004 Harley Davidson XL 883C Sportster Custom

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Harley davidson sportster tacho wiring diagram

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Posted on Jun 25, 2015

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  • Harley Davidson Master
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Hi Rjctraining, for a free wiring diagram please visit the website below. Good luck and have nice day.
Harley Davidson Wiring Diagrams and Schematics

Posted on Jun 25, 2015

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mcguyver1941
  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Wiring diagram for the Harley Davidson 2007 FXDB

If you are gonna work on your own Harley, shell out the $60.00 for an H-D manual. They have a basic wiring diagram inside.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Trying to install a harley davidson tach on 2007

The pink wire goes to the pink eng rpm signal wire coming from the ecm. Go to the stealership and ask 'em to show you where it is.

Aloha

Posted on May 01, 2009

  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200 Custom Tachometer kit

The only idea that i can come up with is that you dont have a good ground..or the guage was bad when you bought it..i hope this..Keith

Posted on Jul 02, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: Adjusting timing on Harley Davidson 1976 sportster

The advance timing should be 35° before Top Dead Center. This is how you find out which mark this is.

Get the rear wheel of the bike off the ground, remove the spark plugs, shift the bike into fourth gear, and remove the timing plug from the left engine case.
Now, take an ordinary PLASTIC DRINKING STRAW and insert it into the front spark plug hole. Do not use anything else or you stand a chance of it breaking and then you'll have to pull the head to get it out. The plastic straw will bend but not break.
Bump the rear wheel in the direction that it turns while riding down the road until the piston pushes the straw all the way up and just barely starts going back down. Look into the timing hole. You should see a timing mark. This is the Top Dead Center mark. Now, bump the rear wheel BACKWARDS until you see another mark. This should be the ADVANCED TIMING MARK. The piston should 7/16" down from top dead center.

On this model Sportster the timing is advanced by a mechanical advance mechanism. These units are notorious for wearing out and not contolling the timing very well. You must remove the breaker plate to inspect this mechanism. Mark the position of the plate before you remove it. If the pins and holes in the flyweights are worn, replace the unit. Replace it with a good needle bearing unit. Replace the points and reset the gap at 0.018 - 0.020".

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=4
http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/harley_davidson_category.aspx

Custom Chrome online catalog. http://www.customchrome.net//icatalog/full.aspx?Page=571

Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

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