Running fine until today motor just started cutting out popping and eventually just died no battery have joe hunt magneto and its a kicker need input on what might have happened. the motor is a 1960fl harley davidson

check fuel system

I ran one of those on several 60s-70s Triumphs.....great ignition!

Both plugs fire at the same time so there is no left/right to worry about.

Remove spark plugs and gap .018. Remove timing cover (right hand side of engine) over battery ignition points.
Disconnect and tape (insulate) all battery connected wires. Better yet, unhook battery hot wire from battery terminal.
Hold breaker cam in opposite direction of rotation (advanced position) and rotate engine until the points on #1 cylinder just start to open. Note: Use .0015 feeler gauge.
Remove breaker plate, breaker cam advance mechanism, and dowel pin from internal taper if your model used a dowel pin to position breaker cam and advance mechanism. CAUTION Do Not Rotate Engine. If engine is rotated, reverse rotation until piston is down and the cylinder at least one inch before top center on the compression stroke.
Rotate engine in normal direction of rotation until piston is 5/16 from top center on compression stroke. Install magnetos adaptor plate and adaptor shaft in cam taper. DO NOT TIGHTEN SHAFT. CAUTION 1963 to 1970 Triumph unit construction twins have a different length taper on shaft and internal threads are dissimilar. Suggest checking threads and taper. 1963 to 1970 bolt has BSF 1/4 x 26 threads. 1971 and later bolt had 1/4 x 28 thread. Early shafts are marked with the letter "A". Later shafts are marked with "B".
NOTE: Some applications will require drilling and tapping engine with 1/4 x 20 for better security of magneto mounting adapter. Some customers with severe service report that they heli aced adaptor to cam cover with approximately one inch length bead, top and bottom for security.
Remove Magneto cover. With shaft slightly loose in taper mount Magneto so that points are just starting to open and bolts are approximately in center of slot (for timing adjustment later).
Carefully remove Magneto and tighten center bolt in shaft. Re-install Magneto and time. Install cover and plug wires. Hook up ground wire to a separate kill switch to ground only. DO NOT HOOK ANY BATTERY CURRENT TO MAGNETO.
Point Gap .012 to .015

For information on your Joe Hunt magneto, you need to contact them. They have a website at http://www.huntmagnetos.com/index.html. They'll probably tell you to send it back to them or send you an instruction sheet.

Good Luck
Steve

Sounds like its not getting enough fuel. clean the fuel system and the carby. The valve clearances also need to be checked.

only way to be sure is to get it diagnosed.

sounds to me the valves are not properly adjusted,..like their to tight,...i had run into this in a japanese car once,...check it out and let me know,.....cracklin joe

The two most likely suspects for the symptom you describe are:
a) Ignition coil failure under high heat.
OR
b) Decompression failure due to normal wear.

For a positive diagnosis try the following:

For scenario a)
Run the engine until it shuts itself down. As quickly as possible, check for spark using a spark tester (availabe at local auto parts store). If no spark when hot, allow to cool down and test again. If good spark when cold and no spark when hot, change the ignition coil.
Proper part number (assuming your machine is still all original) Briggs & Stratton part #492341.

For scenario b)
Run the engine until it shuts itself down. Try to restart but pay close attention to the speed of the spinning starter. Next, remove the spark plug and spin the engine over (WITH SPARK PLUG WIRE WELL OUT OF THE WAY!!) If the engine spins super fast and free you can discount the theory of a bad battery and you will need to adjust the valve lash.

Determine which is the case and reply to this post. I will gladly give a detailed explanation of the valve lash adjustment procedure in another post.

Hope this helps!

Sounds like your husband has his work cut out for him.
Here's the drill.
Dryers today have series of thermostats and fuses to prevent fires.
I have seen some with as many as 7 total.
Each needs to be tested with a multi-meter or an ohm meter to see if it has popped.
Any one of them could have.
Wait to test them until after the machine has "died".
It might help to sit watching the rear of the machine and watch for the one that fails, they will often "pop" loud enough to hear them.
God bless your efforts.

air gap on electronic ignition or tdi unit or carbs want cleaning

sounds like the altenator or voltage regulator