Am getting no 12 volt to relay - GL 1200 Gold Wing Honda Motorcycles

PLease, check if the check engine light lit up when you turn the switch, if it doesn't lit up, your EMC (computer) is not getting any electricity. And that could be the reason that you the fuses are OK but it won't start.

The ASD relay supplies battery voltage (12+ volts) to the fuel injectors and ignition coil(s). With certain emissions packages it also supplies 12-volts to the oxygen sensor heating elements. The Fuel Pump Relay is a separate relay controlled by the ASD relay input to the PCM. Fuse #12 (10amp) provides 12 volts to the coil side of both the relays and the ignition switch. Fuse #6 (30 amps) supplies 12 volts to the output side of the relay. Fuse #16 (15 amp) from the relay output to the Oxygen Sensors and Fuse #26 (15 amp) relay output to the PCM. Fuse #24 (20 amp) is Fuel pump relay output to fuel pump. Fuse #19 (10 amp) supplies 12 volts direct to the PCM.
look for burned or melted wires in the offending circuit.
sounds like you wiggled a wire while installing new relay.

i had the same problem, its the fuel pump relay, pull the relay, pop off the plastic top, insert a shim so that the points are always touching, the other thing it could be is the pigtail connector coming off of the fuel pump inside the tank, chronic chevy problem

Hello! I sent a test procedure to you Wednesday evening but It appears you did not receive it ..This is the path for Battery and Ground to pull the crank relay which applies +12 volts to the starter solenoid..Either there is a fault in this path or the starter itself was damaged in the collision...Leaving the ignition switch when in start ...+12 volts on the Yellow wire goes to the Crank fuse (10A)...Other side of fuse is Purple wire to PCM C-2 Pin # 23...+ 12 volts at this point...PCM sends a ground on C-2 pin #76...Yellow/Black wire to crank relay....+ 12 volts from the PCM ABS fuse (10A)...via Park/Neutral switch to crank relay...Relay pulls and applies +12 volts on the Purple wire that goes to the starter...That +12 volts, if there,indicates a starter damaged in the collision...If not there chase it back until you lose it...Would you be so kind as to not rate my solution until the test procedure is accomplished...Send a comment..saailer

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

No there isn't another relay. Usually the plugs are the first things that will go bad. shave the coating off the wire a few inches away from the plug and check voltage there. Probably will have 12 volts there. You might get another plug at a parts store, I get mine from a junk yard.

Yes, the extra Voltage can overload the Relay. You have several problems here. The Batteries are suppose to be connected in such a way to give you 12 Volts. If you are measuring Voltage to the Relay without the engine running, the main battery cables must be wrong. But one of your batteries must be shorted because two X 12 Volts is 24 Volts, not 16. Unless your dash Voltmeter is pegging out at 16 Volts; you are really getting 24. Use a Multimeter set to Volts and retest to see what the actual Voltage is.

If you are measuring Voltage after the engine is running, the Regulator is bad and allowing too much Voltage in the system which can burn out about anything designed for 12 Volts. It would not be much of a factor for the Glowplug Relay though, because it should shut off before you crank your truck. So in theory you would not be generating 16 Volts while the Relay was working.

You can get a free load test on the Batteries and the Starter at Autozone, Oreillys, and Advance autoparts. Ask for a charging system test. Some Walmart stores will test, but I do not know if it is free.

I hope my solution is very helpful in providing you some items to check to cure your problem.

Pull the relay and make sure you have 12 volts there. Pin # 30 is the power to the pump. this will tell you which way you have to go to find a short or corrosion in the wires. let me know
Randy

That's possible, but if you have power at the starter solenoid to close the contacts then check to see if the 12 volts are going through it(probe the large wire on both sides of the solenoid for 12 volts) and on to the starter, if this is the case, check for 12 volts at the starter lug where the large power wire hooks to the starter, if you are getting at least 12 volts at the starter lug, I would say you have a failed starter motor. Good luck !

Have you checked the fuses? ON a buick, under the steering column there will be a set of wires. When depressing on the horm there will be 12 volt ground to the black wire. The black wire is the wire that goes to the horn relay. If you can trace ground through the wire to the relay, then the problem could be your relay. You can also put +12 volt to the horn to be sure the horn is good. If the horn sounds when putting a +12 volts the the problem again could be the relay.

The wire should not be hot until the relay is triggered. The relay does not get triggered until the ignition key is turned on. It will run for 3-5 seconds or until the system pressure it at max.