Question about 2006 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster Custom

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2006 xl 1200 0nly getting 13volts dc at battery new regulator and battery my stator is putting out 20 volts ac at idle reved is 100 volts ac is that to much or normal ?

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Make sure that your battery is fully charged when taking doing these test and the bike should not be at idle RPM, it should be at about 2000 RPM or a little better. You should be reading at least 25 volts AC out of the alternator and between 14.5 and 15.0 volts DC across a fully charged battery. If it's getting 13 volts at idle, it will probably come up a bit when you increase the engine RPM. It might take a minute or two for the voltage across the battery to peak out. If it doesn't, check the ground on the regulator, it must be grounded correctly. I usually put a star type lock washer between the regulator and the frame on both mounting bolts to ensure a good ground.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

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I have a 1985 Kawasaki vulcan I put a new stator in rode a couple days now battery wont charge. Try to start and nothing barely a click from starter


Buy a "multimeter" (about $10) and switch it to DC volts.
Fully charge the battery.
Hook leads to the battery (red to positive, black to negative).
Start engine, and check meter.
You should be pulling about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug output wires on the voltage regulator and hook the leads to it.
Start engine, and again, at idle you should be getting about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug alternator (stator and rotor) and hook meter leads to wires, AND SWITCH TO AC VOLTS on the meter.
Start bike, and at idle you should be pulling 15-20 volts or more, with it rising (sometimes drastically) when you rev the engine.
This will tell you if the alternator's bad, or the regulator.
Also, you said you changed the stator, but sometimes the rotor becomes de-magnitized, especially if you've dropped it.

May 23, 2014 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Test dyna regulator


NEVER EVER pull the positive cable... thats an old trick for cars and old style charging systems... but then again it's your harley not mine. you need a DVOM set to AC volts to test the stator and set to DC volts to test the regulator... anwhere from 5-20 ac volts coming out of stator and 12 volts dc going TO regulator... yes then regulator, no AC volts out of stator... pull the side cover as mentioned above...

Dec 28, 2013 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

2006 Honda VTX 1300 R not charging


Hi, Chuck before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
04 VTX1300C Charging System Problem
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Honda VTX1300S Service Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda VTX1300C VTX 2004 Owner Manual

Jun 29, 2017 | 2006 Honda VTX 1300 R

1 Answer

1985 gl1200 overcharging at idle will climb to16 volts, new battery


Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
85 ltd Goldwing is charging at 16 volts
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Honda GL1200D Shop Manual
http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda
Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual

Apr 14, 2013 | 1985 Honda GL 1200 Ltd. Ed. - SE-i Gold...

1 Answer

Battery went dead while on the road, voltage gauge plummeted, bike hesitating until came to a stop... battery 4 months old. After sitting for few minutes voltage gauge came up to about 8 but failed to...


yes, it could be the regulator or the stator in the alternator.

To check the regulator, fully charge your battery and reinstall it in the bike. Now connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) "across" the battery by connecting the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative post of the battery. Put the meter's function selector in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT OR GREATER range. Start the engine and bring the engine to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5-15.0 volts. If not, you need to check the stator.

Find the stator plug where the regulator wires plug into the engine cases in the front of the engine. Unplug the wires and look into the engine side of the plug. there will be two contacts. this is where we'll be testing the output voltage. Put your meter's function selector switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS OR GREATER RANGE. Notice this time you're measuring AC VOLTAGE not DC voltage. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Stick one meter lead (either one) into on contact in the engine side of the plug and the other lead into the other contact. Do not allow the probes to touch each other or the side of the case. You should be reading at least 30 volts at a high idle rpm. If you are, then the regulator is bad. If you are not reading at least 30 volts, your stator is bad and must be replaced.

Good Luck
Steve

Jan 31, 2011 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

New batterie new negative wire new posative wire but wont charge . are there any reiays or fuses causing this problem?


You need to check the output of your alternator. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to check the outputs.

First connect the meter across your battery. Red meter lead to the positive terminal, black meter lead to the negative or a good ground. Put the function selector of your meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle, 2000 RPM. Your meter should read 14.5 to 15.0 volts. Turn all lights on and make sure the voltage stays the same.

If your meter reads low in this test, you need to check the output of the stator. On the lower left front of the engine, you'll see a plug where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case. Unplug this plug and look into the part that is in the engine case. You'll see two metal contacts. These are what you're going to put your meter leads to in this test. Since the voltage is now AC volts, it makes no difference which lead goes to which contact. Put your meter's function selector in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT RANGE. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert the meter leads into the contacts. The meter should read at least 30 volts AC voltage here.

If the alternator stator test fails, you need a new stator. If it passes the test but the voltage to the battery is low, you need a new regulator.

If both pass the test, you need to evaluate the current draw of any extra lights or other equipment that you may have put on the bike. If your equipment is drawing more current than the alternator is capable of producing, a slow drawdown of the battery is the results.

Good Luck
Steve

Oct 25, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

My battery is not charging, I put in new battrey and still has the same problem..


If you're sure the battery is good. we'll test the charging system first. You'll need a DVOM (digitial volt ohm meter) to test the system. Start with a fully charged battery. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative. Put the function selector switch of the meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read between 14.5 - 15.0 Volts. If not proceed to the stator test.

Look down on the front of your engine and find the plug coming out of the case where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case connector. Unplug this connector. Down inside the connector are two contacts. These contacts are where we're going to put the meter leads. It makes no difference which lead goes where as we're measuring AC voltage. Put the meter's function selector switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch the meter leads to the two contacts down in the case. You should read at least 30 volts.

So, if you don't read the 30 volts at the engine case, the stator is bad. If you 30 volts or higher but the test at the battery was bad, replace the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

Battery will not charge


need to check stator is ok by checking output between 3 yellow or white wires from stator unplugged from wiring loom . should get approx 15 - 20 volts AC at idle and up to 100 volts AC when reving, also check continuity between each wire with multi meter( should have continuity) and then check that none of these wires are going to earth and making continuity,if so stator has burnt out. if stator ok you will need to check reg/rec to see if diodes ok. this needs to be done with diode checker on multi meter and best done by bike shop. also you can only check charge rate at battery correctly with a charged battery and bike should charge between 13.5 to 14.5 volts if ok.
hope this helps

Jun 24, 2010 | 1990 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not holding charge. What should stator be putting out on voltage meter? Voltage meter climbs as rpms go up, I would presume that this indicates stator ok? Bike...


First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Dec 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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