Question about Yamaha FZR 1000 Motorcycles
I think when buy motorcycle accessories should be attached instructions, otherwise will ask next merchants purchased valve
Posted on Apr 08, 2016
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cam timing The FZR Forum
Yamaha R6 pt 1 CAMSHAFT CRANKSHAFT TIMING
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Posted on Mar 22, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
this happens after they sit a while, get her started, get her rolling, put her in second gear, hold the clutch in, get her up to 20 miles an hour, hold a little throttle on and slam on the rear brake, this usually will free up the stuck friction plates. If not try it a couple of times, it has always worked for me, also if that does not work for you you have to take the side cover off of the engine (clutch side) and using a flat headed screwdriver, and a zip tie to hold the clutch lever back to the handle bar, place the screwdriver in between the clutch plates and gently pry them apart from each other, on your bike I believe you have 7 friction plates and 6 steel plates. ( if you have to remove the cover go get a gasket first).
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
It is NOT a direct bolt in by any means. If you have enough time money and talent, anything can be made to fit but if you are looking for something to bolt up and go, that is NOT it. TOTALLY different cases.
Posted on Nov 06, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks very helpful"
Check your servo motor for the EXUP valve. After you take off the tank its on the inside of the lest side of the frame. It should start moving around 2500 and 3000. If it dosent move check the valve to see if stuck
Posted on Apr 18, 2011
Sukkle julle nog? Het my instruksie nie gehelp nie?. Ek die opgetel, dalk help dit?
The way I understand it is that if #1 is at TDC and the T mark is lined up with the crankcase seam - there is no offset woodruff key (i.e. ignition advancer). If you think about, what's changing (when there is an offset key, that is), is the rotational position of the flywheel in relation to any given crankshaft position (i.e. TDC). So...
IF there is no offset key, rotate the crank so that #1 (and #4 by the way) are at TDC. The T mark should line up with the seam. From there, put the exhaust cam in (taking slack out of the cam chain from the exhaust side). When you go to set the cam into the chain do it in such a way that the cam timing mark is slightly ahead (toward front of motor) of the mark on the cam cap (EDIT - Since you're not actually installing the cap yet simply place it on top of the cam in such a way that there is an even gap between IT and the head surface. This way you can eyeball the position of the marks.). Then install the intake cam in a similar manner. That is, set the cam into the chain so the cam timing mark is slightly ahead of the cap mark. EDIT - When both cams are in place, install the cams caps (follow the torqueing procedure so you don't break them OR the cams!!!). After the caps are installed, grab a dowel and stick it in the cam chain tensioner hole and push the slack out of the chain. This SHOULD rotate the cams back (toward rear of motor) so the marks DO in fact line up.
CAUTION: Keep periodically checking to make sure the T mark is STILL lined up properly while putting the cams in. The crank DOES have a tendency to move around a bit while you're trying to jimmy the cams back in.
If the cams are out it's a bit easier since they are not part of the equation yet. It sounds like you're trying to figure out why the T mark isn't lining up when the cam timing marks ARE lined up. Go once step at a time - starting without the cams - as I described above and you shouldn't have a problem.
If you DO have an offset key, you MAY need to get a stock key to get the timing right. THEN, re-install the offset once the cams are back in. This point / tip was given to me by our resident GURU Reelrazor (who I'm sure will chime in at some point).
Posted on Apr 26, 2011
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