Question about 1996 Yamaha YZF 600 R thunder cat
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YZF600R Forums View topic Petcock
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Yamaha YZF600 YZF600R 1994 2007 Service Repair Manual PDF Download Manuals...
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Yamaha YZF600RP Owner Manual
Posted on Aug 16, 2016
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Fork seal replacement
Did you try taking down the fork seal and cleaning out with wd/40 and a piece of 30mm film? You should always try this first. The seals rarely go bad. There's probably just a vary small rock holdeing it open and the film will dislodge it the wd is just to help things along.
Posted on May 08, 2009
YZF600R is a carbureted model. OIL: The oil sight glass is a round window, low on the right side. Very hard to try to see when astride the bike, even if you use a mirror on an extension rod. Have a friend hold the bike level,perhaps, while you check. Oil should be sighted after the bike has been sitting for a time after riding. I suggest using a good 10W-40 regular motorcycle oil (Least expensive around here in Boston is to buy Kawasaki by the gallon at Riverside) I found the pesky 1st-to-2nd shift to be more direct with this oil than with synthetic. I had plenty of opportunity to compare the two types. GAS: No reserve, but as noted, there is a low fuel light, in the row of lights that includes the neutral light and the high beam indicator. You ought to be getting over 50 m.p.g., so you can estimate your 'range' from that. I usually fill up again around the 180 mile period. I think I've seen the low fuel light once in 6 years of ownership. OH: I suggest you treat the gas, on a regular basis, with 'marine' Stabil, not the regular stuff. I have had a 'gummy' Yamaha Virago 250 to care for, that I thought would never clear its fuel problems. Last winter ('08-'09) stored it with the marine Stabil in the tank and run for a while to get it into the carbs also. Within a few minutes of running it this spring-actually a couple weeks ago- it smoothed out and has run fine since. I believe this HAS to be as a result of the treatment of the fuel (run through the carbs before the winter storage) with this special Stabil. It was recommended by Carlo at Riverside- I'll have to remember to thank him for the advice. N.B. I always change the fuel (siphon it out, put that Stabil'ed but 'old' stuff into my car tank, refill the bikes with fresh 93 octane) each Spring.
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
Thread new cable into place alongside old cable. As you remove tiedowns or clamps holding old cable place new cable in as you go. Undo bottom of cable at front wheel, replace with new cable. Do the same underneath speedometer and you are done.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
The site below has diagrams of the bike in exploded view form...Electrical #2 shows the steering lock also. Cheers.
Posted on May 11, 2010
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