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You will need a volt meter, a cheap one is fine, mine was free at a parking lot sale. Set the volt meter to DC Volt, if it gives you choices pick 20 volt. Hook it to the battery see what your readings are should be some where around 11.5 to 12.3, now start the engine ,run at high RPM . Did the voltage go up ? If it went down it is not charging, It should have went up to 13.8 and as high as 15 volt , this settles back down to 13.8 as the battery charges up. Did your rectifier have three in a row flat spades ? If so unplug the three wire plastic holder, the two outside wires on this plug are from under the flywheel, ATTENTION this current will be AC not DC current so set you volt meter to AC ,engine running fast, ground your meter to the engine and check for voltage on the two outside wires on the plug,one at a time, should be 18 volt AC or around on each wire, if so your stator is working . The center wire on the plug is DC . When plugged into the rectifier the two AC currents go through diodes which change it back to DC current and also there is a regulator inside the rectifier that controls the amount of DC Voltage. So follow the middle wire and test it ,I think it goes to the charging meter on dash .
Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day. 85 ltd Goldwing is charging at 16 volts HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR... Honda GL1200D Shop Manual http://www.partsfish.com/page/oem-parts-for-honda Honda GL1200 1986 Owner Manual
If not charging then it can only be either the stator windings or the regulator/rectifier. The silver "box" with fins on it is your rectifier. Good chance that's the problem...Try another rectifier and put a multimeter on battery terminals. Check voltage when not running then check with bike running. Fully charged battery should show approx 12.4 volts. With bike running it should show approx 13 plus volts which will tell you that it's charging. Usually it will be the rectifier rather than the stator windings that stops it charging.
Find the Regulator & unplug. Connect a AC volt meter to the 3 white wires at the connector that is unplugged from the reg. connecting the 2 red & black meter leads to ANY 2 white wires at the plug (colors don't matter with AC. Run the bike & rev up. You should have starting at about 30 volts ac Up to about 90 volts ac reved if the Stator is good. Now move the 2 meter leads to 2 more white connections & check again. Now you have one more pair of white connections to check. Should have the same 90 volts on any of the 3 pairs of whites (3 phases). If they are low, The startor inside the cover is burnt--Replace it. If good, Then the Regulator/Rectifier Unit that rectifies ac to dc & then regulates the output at 14 ~ 14.5 volts DC on the red & ground (Green or black or housing ground) to go to the battery is the only other part that is for charging. You can't test a regulator other than to see if you have 90 v AC going into it & the plugged in it should be showing 14 Volts DC at the battery terminals , Not just 12 volts. Make shure you have a fully charged GOOD battery before tests or the readings will all be off.
Since the solenoid clicks the starter button works. follow the positive battery cable to the solenoid. Jump the two solenoid posts, if the starter works , you have a bad solenoid. Hold the starter button and gently tap on the starter with a plastic hammer. If the starter works you need new brushes. If you take the starter apart and the coils are burnt or the armature is shorted , you need a new starter. When testing an armature you should have continuity between every other brush contact point.
check your battery 1st , then check the stator a/c output
• 10 or 16 Amps DC regulated for charging
• Two black leads (C) from stator
• Yellow connector (D) with two pin
• Two yellow leads (E) to regulator-rectifier
• One red lead (B) from regulator-rectifier
to red connector output lead (A)
• 10 and 16 Amp systems use the same
stator, color coding and regulator-rectifier
• Alternator output is determined by the
flywheel alternator magnet size
The stator and regulator-rectifier are the same
for the 10 and 16 Amp systems. The system
output is determined by the flywheel magnet
Test Alternator Output
1. Temporarily disconnect stator wire
harness from the regulator-rectifier.
2. Insert RED test lead (A, Figure 28) into the
V ω receptacle in the meter.
3. Insert BLACK test lead (B) into COM
4. Rotate selector to AC Volts position.
5. Insert RED (A) and BLACK (B) test lead
probes into output terminals (D & E) in
YELLOW connector (C). (Test clip leads
may be attached to either terminal).
6. With the engine running at 3600 rpm, the
output should be no less than:
• 20 volts - 10 Amp System
• 30 volts - 16 Amp System
7. If No or Low output is found, check for
bare wires or other defects. If wiring
defects are not found, replace the stator.
voltage depending on alternator type and magnet size
then check the regulator / rectifier , make sure it is grounded properly
make sure battery earth lead is good
i suspect loss of bat voltage is letting the afterfire solenoid close off the main jet
let me know model and type codes off engine & i will try help further
As suggested, check the voltage with the engine running accross the battery. If its below 14 volts you have an issue with the stator windings/regulator/rectifier/wiring.
Do the cheapest thing first and clean up all electrical connections, esp the earths.
A manual will tell you how to test the charging system, but the Suzuki GS range has always had charging issues.
The simplist method is to fit the combined reg/rectifier unit from a Honda CB250/400 Superdream.
Always keep your engine oil topped to the max mark, as this cools the stator.
Dont leave this, it is not unknown for the entire system to fail including the CDI if left unchecked.
You still cant count them out just because his didnt fix the problem, your gonna need a multimeter and KNOW how to use it and KNOW what your looking for and testing. First relize the charging system is its own circuit, so first make sure the battery is good, sounds dumb but is really important. then check to see if you have permenant magnet (PMS) or an electromagnet system (EMS), EMS is pretty much used in an alternator. and is the regulater and rectifer in one component. you can test the diodes in the rectifier. you can check the stator output in volts AC, check the stator ressistance and the insulation breakdown test, check the wire going from the rectifier to the battery, you can do it with ohms and the key off or volts DC with the key on. so pretty much its either the stator, rectifier, regulator, or somewhere in the charging system wiring.
Chk the charging voltage at the battery posts. Should be between 13.6 to 14.2 The lower the voltage the hugher the amps. if at 13,6 it is charging heavy. It may not be your charging system. If it shows 12 volts it is charging max output, and at 15 it isn't doing anything.. I would put my money on the battery being no good..
You have either got a bad generator (Stator) or wiring problems. Check to make sure all connections from Stator to Regulator and regulator to battery are good, Not corroided, or burnt. Check to make sure your Ground wire from battery to engine block it good! If all connections are good then the Stator is Bad! Testing the Stator is easy! With the new battery Charged up and all wires have be checked as stated above. Start Engine and let idle, Take a Volt meter on DC setting and place one lead on positive side of battery and Black on Negative see what the meter reads. Now with it still hooked up (Meter) Rev engine up and see the reading now! If the meter shows a discharge when you rev it up the Stator is Bad. If it shows over 16 volts the regulator rectifier is bad and needs replacing. It would be overcharging and burning or shorting out your Batteries! If it reads 14.5 to 15.5 volts it is Normal and most likely your New battery is Bad Take it back! Hope this is some help to you! Rick
PS! Road Rash Hurts, SO keep your Chin Up!!